Rear essentric lockout bolt kit?

phunk · 08-26-2013, 03:25 PM

that just sounds like a regular eccentric bolt kit?

modme · 08-26-2013, 03:58 PM

It would no longer be adjustable and no slip. Assuming suspension geometry doesnt change, camber and toe will always stay the same.

Cbtech · 08-26-2013, 05:15 PM

***retard moment here

***

what is this supposed to do??

synolimit · 08-26-2013, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

that just sounds like a regular eccentric bolt kit?

Yep, just not paying $72

Quote:

Originally Posted by modme

It would no longer be adjustable and no slip. Assuming suspension geometry doesnt change, camber and toe will always stay the same.

Correct. Once I get the arms, the adjustable bolts are going bye bye so they can't slip under a hard G load.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbtech

***retard moment here

***

what is this supposed to do??

Read right above

synolimit · 08-26-2013, 09:14 PM

Well I just measured toe. Not ideal, 1. Because I used a tape measure and 2. The only way to measure was not in the middle of the wheel. I got only about 1/4 way up the tire. However I did get a rear measurement of about 68 1.5/16th and a front measurement of 68. Therefore the rear tires are toed in 1.5/16th of an inch. That's factory yes?

synolimit · 08-27-2013, 02:27 PM

Well I'm inpatient so I decided to see what would change by installing the toe bolts. To my surprise the numbers didn't do what I was thinking they'd do.

Before install...
Driver camber -1.9
Passenger cam -1.4
Rear toe 0.094"

After install
Driver camber -1.8
Passenger cam -1.3
Rear toe 0.094"

Basically nothing happened which is awesome! Because 1. I don't need to take them off and 2. Everything's in spec.

Now I was scared because first I just installed the passenger side and measured and the toe was at 0.25" which is out of spec. I thought "o great, after the drivers side ill be 0.5" or something. But doing the drives pulled it right back where it was. Now I did look at the factory marks and it looked like the eccentric bolts were straight up and down so they weren't giving any adjustment anyhow. Later ill tackle the camber bolts.

Spec Jay · 08-27-2013, 03:27 PM

you need to slot the subframe and drill the washers with offset holes.

synolimit · 08-27-2013, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spec Jay

you need to slot the subframe and drill the washers with offset holes.

Huh? Why?

Whole point of this was to have zero chance of movement from those locations.

Sh0velMan · 08-28-2013, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Huh? Why?

Whole point of this was to have zero chance of movement from those locations.

I *think* he was trying to tell you how you could adjust the setup using the lockout plates, without using eccentric bolts... He missed the part about your alignment being fine and you planning on getting adjustable arms anyway, I guess.

synolimit · 08-28-2013, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

I *think* he was trying to tell you how you could adjust the setup using the lockout plates, without using eccentric bolts... He missed the part about your alignment being fine and you planning on getting adjustable arms anyway, I guess.

How would u adjust toe with a lockout plate and no eccentric bolt?

Sh0velMan · 08-28-2013, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

How would u adjust toe with a lockout plate and no eccentric bolt?

By making the hole not round... slotted, in other words. See what I mean?

Sh0velMan · 08-27-2013, 03:52 PM

So uhh what sizes and offsets did you end up going with to make RPF1's fit?

synolimit · 08-27-2013, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

So uhh what sizes and offsets did you end up going with to make RPF1's fit?

10.5 +15 rear and 9.5 +45 front with a 20mm spacer.

Sh0velMan · 08-28-2013, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

10.5 +15 rear and 9.5 +45 front with a 20mm spacer.

How tight is the clearance between the caliper and wheel in the front with that spacer?

Think you could have pulled it off with +38 and a 15mm? That's 2mm less clearance.

synolimit · 08-28-2013, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

How tight is the clearance between the caliper and wheel in the front with that spacer?

Think you could have pulled it off with +38 and a 15mm? That's 2mm less clearance.

Yes I could have. Odd thing is with the 20mm I have like zero clearance. But I put the 15mm on, held the rim flat on it and spun and nothing hit.

08-26-2013, 03:25 PM	#1 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,669 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974724	that just sounds like a regular eccentric bolt kit? __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

08-26-2013, 03:58 PM	#2 (permalink)
modme Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: NY Posts: 345 Drives: G37 Rep Power: 17	It would no longer be adjustable and no slip. Assuming suspension geometry doesnt change, camber and toe will always stay the same. __________________ GTM Twin Turbo Stage 2\|GTR Turbo/Engine Gauges\|KW V3 Coilovers\|HKS Exhaust\|Oil Cooler\| Vossen CV1

08-26-2013, 05:15 PM	#3 (permalink)
Cbtech A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,372 Drives: 40th Anniversary Rep Power: 16	*retard moment here * what is this supposed to do?? __________________ Are U in Sacramento or Central Valley California? Click here! Foglight Hardwire in less than 10 minutes! DIY: Automatic VDC off

08-26-2013, 09:14 PM	#5 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3390	Well I just measured toe. Not ideal, 1. Because I used a tape measure and 2. The only way to measure was not in the middle of the wheel. I got only about 1/4 way up the tire. However I did get a rear measurement of about 68 1.5/16th and a front measurement of 68. Therefore the rear tires are toed in 1.5/16th of an inch. That's factory yes? __________________ 13 370z-

08-27-2013, 02:27 PM	#6 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3390	Well I'm inpatient so I decided to see what would change by installing the toe bolts. To my surprise the numbers didn't do what I was thinking they'd do. Before install... Driver camber -1.9 Passenger cam -1.4 Rear toe 0.094" After install Driver camber -1.8 Passenger cam -1.3 Rear toe 0.094" Basically nothing happened which is awesome! Because 1. I don't need to take them off and 2. Everything's in spec. Now I was scared because first I just installed the passenger side and measured and the toe was at 0.25" which is out of spec. I thought "o great, after the drivers side ill be 0.5" or something. But doing the drives pulled it right back where it was. Now I did look at the factory marks and it looked like the eccentric bolts were straight up and down so they weren't giving any adjustment anyhow. Later ill tackle the camber bolts. __________________ 13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 08-27-2013 at 02:30 PM.

08-27-2013, 03:27 PM	#7 (permalink)
Spec Jay A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Bummerton Posts: 1,510 Drives: MtB 09 370z Rep Power: 20	you need to slot the subframe and drill the washers with offset holes. __________________ 09 Monterey Blue Global Time Attack Street Class Build Build Thread:Saber! Instagram:@SpecJay

08-27-2013, 03:52 PM	#12 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 21	So uhh what sizes and offsets did you end up going with to make RPF1's fit? __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

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