Coilovers

Volk Z · 05-07-2013, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raymondo510

hmm I never got it, but either way I decided to just get the Bc's today so I guess im rolling the dice

Well I hope you don't have any problems. Just be sure to only set the pre-load in the rear at 3/8 MAX (1/4 is recommended).
Don't touch the front springs pre-load just install them.
Also when you want to adjust the height DO NOT do it while they are on the car. Take the strut out and adjust then reinstall the strut/spring

raymondo510 · 05-07-2013, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Volk Z

Also when you want to adjust the height DO NOT do it while they are on the car. Take the strut out and adjust then reinstall the strut/spring

Really why is that? From what i've seen most people do it while on the car

Volk Z · 05-07-2013, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raymondo510

Really why is that? From what i've seen most people do it while on the car

Yikes REALLY? Well 1st it clearly says don't do it in the instructions. 2nd because you need to free the weight off the spindles so there is no pressure while you are spinning them up or down. Even though the car is jacked up you can't ensure the entire load is off the strut/spring.

For the front you can leave the top 3 bolts that are inside the engine bay BUT release the bolts on the bottom so it is floating and then ONLY twist the lower locking rings DON'T adjust the top ones as those have pre-load already set from the factory.
In the rear since its multi link you can leave the strut in and just take the spring with the spindles out and then re-do the pre-load after you complete.

Trust me

Sh0velMan · 05-07-2013, 11:33 AM

^^ Your cautionary comments are valid and true, for the most part.

That said, for our cars, if you're lowered significantly, there isn't really any pre-load on the springs, so it's perfectly safe to adjust them.

This is for sure true in the front, and depending on setup, in the rear as well. Ever notice that if you loosen the shock nuts in the front, the nuts don't come up off of the tower? That's because the weight of the spindle/arms/brake/everything else assembly is pulling down on them because there's no assembly pre-load.

So for coilovers where you're adjusting a ride height adjustment that's independent of spring pre-load, you're just fine doing it on the car, as long as you can confirm there's no pressure on the assembly. (Which again you can confirm by loosening the top nuts and seeing if they stand up from the metal or if the shock just sinks down, keeping the nuts flush with the surface)

Volk Z · 05-07-2013, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

^^ Your cautionary comments are valid and true, for the most part.

That said, for our cars, if you're lowered significantly, there isn't really any pre-load on the springs, so it's perfectly safe to adjust them.

This is for sure true in the front, and depending on setup, in the rear as well. Ever notice that if you loosen the shock nuts in the front, the nuts don't come up off of the tower? That's because the weight of the spindle/arms/brake/everything else assembly is pulling down on them because there's no assembly pre-load.

So for coilovers where you're adjusting a ride height adjustment that's independent of spring pre-load, you're just fine doing it on the car, as long as you can confirm there's no pressure on the assembly. (Which again you can confirm by loosening the top nuts and seeing if they stand up from the metal or if the shock just sinks down, keeping the nuts flush with the surface)

Correct, you can adjust the front on the car as long as all the load is off (basically leave the 3 bolts in the engine bay) the bottom bolt should be undone so the strut is free of all load.

So yes I agree with you

raymondo510 · 05-07-2013, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Volk Z

Correct, you can adjust the front on the car as long as all the load is off (basically leave the 3 bolts in the engine bay) the bottom bolt should be undone so the strut is free of all load.

So yes I agree with you

Cool thanks a lot for all the help and knowledge you've shared

Volk Z · 05-07-2013, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raymondo510

Cool thanks a lot for all the help and knowledge you've shared

Hook me up with some rep

raymondo510 · 05-07-2013, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Volk Z

Hook me up with some rep

Repped

Volk Z · 05-08-2013, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raymondo510

Repped

Thanks! Enjoy the coilovers!

raymondo510 · 05-08-2013, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Volk Z

Thanks! Enjoy the coilovers!

I'll let you know how it goes

gSwift · 05-08-2013, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raymondo510

Yea I was actually looking at the tein's. I was looking around and seen that some guys have had some issues with the BC's making odd noises and giving them trouble. My budget isn't really set on a 1k, but bieng that I probably won't be tracking I didn't really feel the need to buy some of the higher end models. I might have to just bite down tho and buy a little better quality coilover

I had BC's on my 350 and they made horrible noises in the back. Had them checked out at 3 different shops and never got it fixed. I bought KW V3's for the current ride only to realize I couldn't achieve the aggressive look I wanted. Now I have Stance with the true coilover type in the rear and then added SPL toe arms and camber arms.

ChrisSlicks · 05-09-2013, 06:34 AM

Noise in the rear is usually when the spring is to short, when you go over a bump the spring rattles since there isn't enough preload. BC has two spring lengths to offer for the rear, they seem to ship the short one by default but that causes problems unless you have a large drop.

raymondo510 · 05-09-2013, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

they seem to ship the short one by default but that causes problems unless you have a large drop.

Well I plan to have my nuts dragging so hopefully it will all work out

Volk Z · 05-09-2013, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Noise in the rear is usually when the spring is to short, when you go over a bump the spring rattles since there isn't enough preload. BC has two spring lengths to offer for the rear, they seem to ship the short one by default but that causes problems unless you have a large drop.

Or set a little extra pre-load. I set 3/8 rather then 1/4 and it was better. A 1/4 I heard a slight noise with on my 350z with those shorter revised springs.

I did maybe a 1.5 inch drop in the rear

1cleanZ · 06-03-2013, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gSwift

I had BC's on my 350 and they made horrible noises in the back. Had them checked out at 3 different shops and never got it fixed. I bought KW V3's for the current ride only to realize I couldn't achieve the aggressive look I wanted. Now I have Stance with the true coilover type in the rear and then added SPL toe arms and camber arms.

I want to bring this thread back to life because I've been trying my best to study up on this, but cannot get a clear answer from anyone.

I previously had a G37s with KW V3's and loved them. My car was flush, zero wheel gap, tire rubber tucked...etc. Even at this height, I had atleast 1 1/2" left on my perch that I could drop the car even more.

I continue to read that KW V3's are limited to how low you can adjust them on the 370. IS THIS TRUE? This is my single hold up from keeping me from purchasing KW's right now and its driving me nuts...I NEED to lower this Nismo ASAP!

I've flirted with Stance GR+ coils, Tein mono flex with EDFC as well. 2 of my local crew members run this and love it...adjusting their strut dampening on the go.

I do track events, Auto-X, and I also enjoy the afternoon cruise. I also attend ZdayZ( 17 hour drive) so with all of this taken into consideration, the Tein mono flex have really taken my interest.

I loved my KW's...so I'd really like to get the facts on this before I narrow my decision on going a different route.

This is Gene's 370 on KW V3's.....TBH, I don't know why you would ever want to go any lower then THIS???? Doesn't seem limiting to me?????

05-07-2013, 11:33 AM	#19 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	^^ Your cautionary comments are valid and true, for the most part. That said, for our cars, if you're lowered significantly, there isn't really any pre-load on the springs, so it's perfectly safe to adjust them. This is for sure true in the front, and depending on setup, in the rear as well. Ever notice that if you loosen the shock nuts in the front, the nuts don't come up off of the tower? That's because the weight of the spindle/arms/brake/everything else assembly is pulling down on them because there's no assembly pre-load. So for coilovers where you're adjusting a ride height adjustment that's independent of spring pre-load, you're just fine doing it on the car, as long as you can confirm there's no pressure on the assembly. (Which again you can confirm by loosening the top nuts and seeing if they stand up from the metal or if the shock just sinks down, keeping the nuts flush with the surface) Trips, UNKNOWN_370 and raymondo510 like this. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

05-09-2013, 06:34 AM	#27 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	Noise in the rear is usually when the spring is to short, when you go over a bump the spring rattles since there isn't enough preload. BC has two spring lengths to offer for the rear, they seem to ship the short one by default but that causes problems unless you have a large drop. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

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