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Steering Wheel Vibration while braking

Originally Posted by Ages This happened to my2011sportZ also. it had 300~ miles on it.Nissan cut them and it was all gone. I am gonna replace rotors, these should have

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Old 06-10-2014, 10:04 AM   #46 (permalink)
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This happened to my2011sportZ also. it had 300~ miles on it.Nissan cut them and it was all gone. I am gonna replace rotors, these should have been Cross drilled/ slotted stock ><
If you want to have your rotor crack, and one of your wheels completely stop spinning when you're at highway speed, which makes the steering wheel jump out of your hand and possibly break your thumb. Then yes, cross drilled rotors are what you need stock.
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:07 AM   #47 (permalink)
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I am not an engineer, but have 2 friends who are brake engineers and I understand some things. This is a quote taken from me from another thread that no one has read haha.

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Short rant about brake discs:
1) Heat is the killer of brake systems, especially brake pads. The rotor is the main heat sink of the brake system. The heavier the rotor in general, the more heat it can soak up and keep the total system cooler. This makes brake pads last much longer since heat is what eats up pads. So heavier = better. Lightening rotational mass is nice and all, but being able to use your brake pads because they aren't burned down to the backing plate is better.
2) Slotted rotors are designed to help limit buildup on the rotor. Buildup on the rotor is what causes the steering wheel to shake when you hit the brake, I think it's kind of hard to actually warp a huge hunk of steel (I'm sure at temps as high as brakes get you can though. The vanes in rotors help cool them. Slots do not.
3) Cross drilled rotors make no sense to me. I already said rotors are a heat sink, and the more mass the more heat a rotor can soak up. Why would you drill holes in a rotor to lighten it then? Worse though is that cross drilled rotors crack.
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:26 AM   #48 (permalink)
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if we replace the wrap rotors with other rotors, what will be good choice of rotors (brand) to replace with?
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Old 06-11-2014, 10:36 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Read T View Post
I am not an engineer, but have 2 friends who are brake engineers and I understand some things. This is a quote taken from me from another thread that no one has read haha.
I agree, though slots and holes are more for removing gas buildup between pad and rotor rather than reducing mass, which is more of a side effect. Gas buildup was a problem with pads a decade ago, not so much now days.
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Old 06-11-2014, 11:46 AM   #50 (permalink)
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if we replace the wrap rotors with other rotors, what will be good choice of rotors (brand) to replace with?
Z1 2 piece rotors
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:28 PM   #51 (permalink)
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You don't really need 2 piece rotors, they are for if you track your car often. OEM disk or similar will work fine. Best upgrade you can do it the pads/fluid.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:19 PM   #52 (permalink)
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how about the stillen brake cooling?

does it help to prevent the rotor wrap?
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:20 PM   #53 (permalink)
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how about the stillen brake cooling?

does it help to prevent the rotor wrap?
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:03 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Could you confirm if your tyres are starting to get close to needing replaced as the vibration through the steering is a common problem when the tyre get low.
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:14 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Could you confirm if your tyres are starting to get close to needing replaced as the vibration through the steering is a common problem when the tyre get low.
geez, how low are you running your tires? until air leaks out?
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:48 AM   #56 (permalink)
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yah, when my tires blow up due to no more rubber left, it automatically notifies me through the steering wheel per vibrations. so then i know its time to change tires.
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Old 07-10-2014, 04:46 PM   #57 (permalink)
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I ran my '83 200sx brakes till my rear rotors were like two Pink Floyd albums. They were groovy baby. I wasn't able to resurface them though, wasn't enough material left
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:29 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 370z_2910 View Post
how about the stillen brake cooling?

does it help to prevent the rotor wrap?
Rotors shouldn't be warping, even under race conditions. They can get build up unevenly on them. Either way, for day to day driving you shouldn't need brake ducting. If so, I'd say this would be a huge liability and nissan would have put out a recall for safety long ago. Maybe try getting different pads.
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:20 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Read T View Post
Rotors shouldn't be warping, even under race conditions. They can get build up unevenly on them. Either way, for day to day driving you shouldn't need brake ducting. If so, I'd say this would be a huge liability and nissan would have put out a recall for safety long ago. Maybe try getting different pads.
i've already replaced the oem rotors with the stoptech cross and ventalited discs.
also, i've installed the oem brake pads with project mu b-pads.

with the upgraded rotors and pads, my z still getting the same wraped problem as the previous oem parts.

just wondering, if either the brake duct or bbk might help with wraped issues.

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Old 07-19-2014, 10:29 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Warping rotors has to do with your driving style. Some folks are bad about it and others are not. If the brakes are the least bit weak, I will warp them every time. Best thing to do is upgrade if this fits your wonderful abilities. Nissan has always been known for warping rotors.
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