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Steering Wheel Vibration while braking

Originally Posted by ResIpsa I think the problem is that shops throw around the term “warped” as a catchall for any time a car judders under braking(that is the actual

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Old 09-20-2011, 10:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ResIpsa View Post
I think the problem is that shops throw around the term “warped” as a catchall for any time a car judders under braking(that is the actual term, not “shudders, vibrates, pulses, etc…”).

I have heard well respected auto mechanics use the term “warped” when diagnosing brake judder. The upside to all of this is that, regardless of what you call it, the solution is basically the same. The rotor needs to be resurfaced.

However, if you, with your infinite knowledge gleamed from this site, understands that judder is caused by uneven pad deposits, you can save some money (gasp! That was a long sentence).

How you ask? Most rotor resurfacing will cost you from $25 to $50 per rotor. New rotors will cost you $150. 50 sheets of Garnet sandpaper will cost you $25 and allow you to resurface you and your entire families rotors (and look like a hero) for years to come.

Caveat. You cannot buy Garnet sandpaper at Lowes or Home Depot. Here is the link. 3M? Paper 110N Sheets

Store bought sand paper is aluminum oxide and could make the problem worse.

I understand that this goes against a very common belief on this forum. Trust the guys who track our cars. We go through rotors exponentially faster than anyone who drives on the street. And we don’t lathe or trash our rotors every time we get brake judder.

And we do get brake judder. I have a poorly fitting set of Porterfield R-4 full race pads if your are interested.
Huh. Never heard of the garnet paper. Looks pretty intense.

I believe you 100% in the OP's situation, but just as a footnote, "warping" can happen to cheaper rotors. I had rotors on a car years ago that were badly warped. I think mine may have been caused by a rough curbing incident, so they weren't "warped" per se, but bent. Pretty rare I guess, but possible.

Thanks for the link to the paper. I'm gonna pick some up. With all the hot weather this summer, I've got a slight judder myself.
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:46 AM   #17 (permalink)
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If you have a 370z with 10" rotors, maybe you will wrap your rotors. A new car with 1500 miles on 14" rotor? Give me a break.
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:53 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NewYorkJon34 View Post
Ok guy, ya I did bed them in properly, I had both the local Nissan techs & a trusted shop where I get my stuff done say that the front rotors were in fact warped.
yup, just like how they tell me i need to top off my brake fluid as pads wear. inflate tires to the sidewall pressure, run 100 octane to get more hp from a stock car.
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
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What grit do you use? 80 or 180?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ResIpsa View Post
I think the problem is that shops throw around the term “warped” as a catchall for any time a car judders under braking(that is the actual term, not “shudders, vibrates, pulses, etc…”).

I have heard well respected auto mechanics use the term “warped” when diagnosing brake judder. The upside to all of this is that, regardless of what you call it, the solution is basically the same. The rotor needs to be resurfaced.

However, if you, with your infinite knowledge gleamed from this site, understands that judder is caused by uneven pad deposits, you can save some money (gasp! That was a long sentence).

How you ask? Most rotor resurfacing will cost you from $25 to $50 per rotor. New rotors will cost you $150. 50 sheets of Garnet sandpaper will cost you $25 and allow you to resurface you and your entire families rotors (and look like a hero) for years to come.

Caveat. You cannot buy Garnet sandpaper at Lowes or Home Depot. Here is the link. 3M? Paper 110N Sheets

Store bought sand paper is aluminum oxide and could make the problem worse.

I understand that this goes against a very common belief on this forum. Trust the guys who track our cars. We go through rotors exponentially faster than anyone who drives on the street. And we don’t lathe or trash our rotors every time we get brake judder.

And we do get brake judder. I have a poorly fitting set of Porterfield R-4 full race pads if your are interested.
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Old 09-21-2011, 07:29 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I use 80 grit. I also suggest getting a palm sander or drill adapter.

I use repositionable spray adhesive to attach the sandpaper to the sander.
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Old 09-21-2011, 04:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Hey guys,

I appreciate all of the dialogue. I'm going to take my car to Fontana Nissan's race shop. The guy who runs the show there (Scott) is a very good friend of mine. Plus, they installed my KW's.

Either way, once I know what the issue is (warped rotors or brakes the need to be bled) I'll report back. However. I must say this is frustrating on a fairly new car. If upgraded rotors will prevent this from happening, I think I'll go that route in addition to some upgraded pads.....
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Old 09-21-2011, 07:29 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Scott is def a good guy, I bought my KW V3's from him as well.
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:08 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quick update everyone. I took my car in Saturday morning and the diagnosis was just as everyone suspected, the front rotors are warped. It still a mystery as to why the rotors would be warped when my car has only 1500 miles. The only thing the my Nissan tech Chris mentioned that could have happened is that the dealership where I purchased my 370 hot lapped the car and then sprayed cold water on the rotors during the PDI. At any rate, this is being counted as a warranty repair and they will be ordering me a new set of rotors at no charge.

I'd like to give a big thanks to Scott and Chris at Fontana Nissan for replacing the rotors at no charge!! Id say this is the best dealership in Socal to get work done to your car!!!
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:59 AM   #24 (permalink)
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soooo am i to believe Fontana Nissan's race shop is full of sh1t too? i love how everyone knows the right answer becasue they track their car......
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:46 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Told you I knew what I was talking about, Nissan rotors suck.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:48 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I wouldn't go as far as saying the totally suck. Again, the damage was premature and likely caused during the PDI process at the dealership. However, I do think that rotors could be a bit more robust. What would happen if your rotors heat up and you end up going through water? What about all of the cars that go through the local car wash. Wouldn't those rotors warp also?
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:15 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Well it could happen to any rotor that's being used then rapidly gets cooled down, simple science really. Another factor being if it's a high quality material (or not) being used when making them.
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:58 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fuct View Post
soooo am i to believe Fontana Nissan's race shop is full of sh1t too? i love how everyone knows the right answer becasue they track their car......
If you think you can warp a rotor at 1500 miles, please go right ahead. Unless someone tracked the living piss out of it and then pee on it, there is no way they can warp.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:02 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cossie1600 View Post
If you think you can warp a rotor at 1500 miles, please go right ahead. Unless someone tracked the living piss out of it and then pee on it, there is no way they can warp.
I always pee on my rotors to cool them down, is that wrong?
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
I always pee on my rotors to cool them down, is that wrong?
to warp it 1500 miles, you might need a group of guys giving it a golden shower together

oh yeah, the rotors are giant on the 370. If it is that easy to warp a 370z rotor, the ones on the economy will warp before they drive out of the dealership...

Last edited by cossie1600; 09-26-2011 at 09:16 PM.
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