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It make any sense to just upgrade rotors?

Unless you are going for looks, it is a waste of money. The OEM are 14" big, that's a big enough heatsink for most uses and moderate track days.

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Old 08-31-2010, 12:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Unless you are going for looks, it is a waste of money. The OEM are 14" big, that's a big enough heatsink for most uses and moderate track days.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hey Chris, can your 2-piece rotors be turned on a standard brake lathe? I've don't have any scoring but I've got some heavy vibration as they heat up so I was suspecting either uneven deposits or problem with the mounting hardware. I also toasted a set of DS3000's, started to de-laminate from the backing plate. Brake ducts anyone?
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey Chris, can your 2-piece rotors be turned on a standard brake lathe? I've don't have any scoring but I've got some heavy vibration as they heat up so I was suspecting either uneven deposits or problem with the mounting hardware. I also toasted a set of DS3000's, started to de-laminate from the backing plate. Brake ducts anyone?
There are a lot of different brake lathes out there, so I'm not sure what you mean by 'standard'. If is is a good, stiff machine with enough swing for the rotor in question (we currently use up to 410mm/16" discs), then it is possible to do the job properly.

If you're cooking DS3000's, cooling should definitely be looked at. Also, consider the Mintex F3R compound, which is a current favorite in NASCAR and a few other series brutal on brakes. It is very linear, with outstanding feedback a quick release. It's good up to 2000°F, so no worries there! These will be in stock at STILLEN tomorrow (FedEx permitting). As always, scuff the rotor surface with a Flex-Hone or Scotch-Brite before bedding in a new compound.

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Old 09-01-2010, 01:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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There are a lot of different brake lathes out there, so I'm not sure what you mean by 'standard'. If is is a good, stiff machine with enough swing for the rotor in question (we currently use up to 410mm/16" discs), then it is possible to do the job properly.

If you're cooking DS3000's, cooling should definitely be looked at. Also, consider the Mintex F3R compound, which is a current favorite in NASCAR and a few other series brutal on brakes. It is very linear, with outstanding feedback a quick release. It's good up to 2000°F, so no worries there! These will be in stock at STILLEN tomorrow (FedEx permitting). As always, scuff the rotor surface with a Flex-Hone or Scotch-Brite before bedding in a new compound.

Chris
Thanks Chris, I'll research the surrounding shops to see what equipment they have.

The pads seemed to bed correctly, I followed the manufacturers instructions. They were great for 2 sessions, good bite, good release, but after that shudder got progressively worse. The hotter they got the worse the shudder got, seemed like the rotor wasn't expanding evenly on the hat. Definitely need a good cooling solution, I wish Stillen had their kit finished. The home brew method is okay but not ideal.
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Chris, I'll research the surrounding shops to see what equipment they have.

The pads seemed to bed correctly, I followed the manufacturers instructions. They were great for 2 sessions, good bite, good release, but after that shudder got progressively worse. The hotter they got the worse the shudder got, seemed like the rotor wasn't expanding evenly on the hat. Definitely need a good cooling solution, I wish Stillen had their kit finished. The home brew method is okay but not ideal.
Once you have a handle on rotor temps, pad selection will become a bit easier. It does sound like you might be right on the upper edge of the envelope with the DS3000's (MOT = 1200°F). This is the lowest temp track pad from Ferodo which is suitable for some tracks, but not those with several heavy braking zones and a skilled driver.

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Old 09-02-2010, 12:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Once you have a handle on rotor temps, pad selection will become a bit easier. It does sound like you might be right on the upper edge of the envelope with the DS3000's (MOT = 1200°F). This is the lowest temp track pad from Ferodo which is suitable for some tracks, but not those with several heavy braking zones and a skilled driver.
Stillen was out of temp paint so I'm not sure what I was hitting exactly. I do know that the rotors were still at 600°F in the pits after a cool down lap and a long drive through the pits, not sure how quickly they cool down.

I will have the temp paint and some different pads to try for the next event. I'm just hoping that the rotor ring is still serviceable as it doesn't have a ton of heavy track miles on it yet. The brakes always had a rock solid feel even when I was getting front pad fade in the extended sessions. Given that this was open track some drivers with prepped cars were staying out for up to 90 minutes, I never exceed 25-30 at a time. I also boiled over the power steering fluid despite the Stillen PS cooler, but that was my fault for filling to max instead of min.
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Unless you are going for looks, it is a waste of money. The OEM are 14" big, that's a big enough heatsink for most uses and moderate track days.
Just because a rotor's outside diameter measures 14" doesn't mean there is enough heat capacity or the right type of heat dams and internal air flow for very spirited driving. There is a lot more to proper brake systems than a few numbers. And, one-piece rotors have limitations that are overcome with a properly designed 2-piece disc assembly.

The OP stated he is planning on auto-X use. DBA and STILLEN are working on a 2-piece rotor assembly for the Sport/Akebono calipers that will suit his needs -- until he becomes much more sensitive to threshold braking. At that point, only a full upgrade to better calipers will fit the bill. Simply put, the OE calipers do not have the feel or feedback that the AP Racing calipers do. Whether or not that cost is justifiable is up to him and no one else.

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