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Unless you are going for looks, it is a waste of money. The OEM are 14" big, that's a big enough heatsink for most uses and moderate track days.
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Hey Chris, can your 2-piece rotors be turned on a standard brake lathe? I've don't have any scoring but I've got some heavy vibration as they heat up so I was suspecting either uneven deposits or problem with the mounting hardware. I also toasted a set of DS3000's, started to de-laminate from the backing plate. Brake ducts anyone?
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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
If you're cooking DS3000's, cooling should definitely be looked at. Also, consider the Mintex F3R compound, which is a current favorite in NASCAR and a few other series brutal on brakes. It is very linear, with outstanding feedback a quick release. It's good up to 2000°F, so no worries there! These will be in stock at STILLEN tomorrow (FedEx permitting). As always, scuff the rotor surface with a Flex-Hone or Scotch-Brite before bedding in a new compound. Chris |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North East
Posts: 6,203
Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6
Rep Power: 655 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
The pads seemed to bed correctly, I followed the manufacturers instructions. They were great for 2 sessions, good bite, good release, but after that shudder got progressively worse. The hotter they got the worse the shudder got, seemed like the rotor wasn't expanding evenly on the hat. Definitely need a good cooling solution, I wish Stillen had their kit finished. The home brew method is okay but not ideal.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Chris |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North East
Posts: 6,203
Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6
Rep Power: 655 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
I will have the temp paint and some different pads to try for the next event. I'm just hoping that the rotor ring is still serviceable as it doesn't have a ton of heavy track miles on it yet. The brakes always had a rock solid feel even when I was getting front pad fade in the extended sessions. Given that this was open track some drivers with prepped cars were staying out for up to 90 minutes, I never exceed 25-30 at a time. I also boiled over the power steering fluid despite the Stillen PS cooler, but that was my fault for filling to max instead of min.
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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 135
Drives: Many
Rep Power: 236 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
The OP stated he is planning on auto-X use. DBA and STILLEN are working on a 2-piece rotor assembly for the Sport/Akebono calipers that will suit his needs -- until he becomes much more sensitive to threshold braking. At that point, only a full upgrade to better calipers will fit the bill. Simply put, the OE calipers do not have the feel or feedback that the AP Racing calipers do. Whether or not that cost is justifiable is up to him and no one else. Chris |
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