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I ran the Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 back for years before switching to different brake pads. There is a reason the Carbotech brake pads cost more they bit really
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I ran the Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 back for years before switching to different brake pads. There is a reason the Carbotech brake pads cost more they bit really well and you will be able to see the full benefits of the Carbotech’s on the track. You will see a braking improvement with the Carbotech’s but you will need to run upgraded rotors though. Only con’s is you will notice is more dusting coming from them and evident on your wheels. Also when they are cold a specially on cold days they will make noise moaning etc. When they warm up they quiet down. One thing to realize is when running a track oriented brake pad like the Carbotech’s or similar rotor life will decrease some. I recommend switching from street brake pads when you want to drive your Z on the street and on your track days switching over to your track pads you will thank yourself later. The 1521 Carbotech’s will be a nice improvement on the street. What brake fluid do you plan on using? What is your brake set up plans for street/track?
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Stillen Brake Cooling installed already I did the Z1 370z(Sport) Brake Upgrade Kit a couple of years ago... I street the car maybe third of the time. So sounds like I should be good. Thanks all for the help
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I did my 1st track day in the Z last weekend with XP10s/XP8s on aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors w/ Motul RBF600 fluid and got major brake fade at the end of the sessions. Thinking I absolutely need to add cooling and install SS lines to replace the 7-year-old factory rubber. And, I just bought street pads so I'll only run the Carbotechs on the track. At $300/set, plus the dust and squealing, I only want them on the track. I went with Centri Posi-Quiet for the street pads, they cheaper on Amazon than from Z1, FYI. Last edited by fairladyATX; 06-30-2021 at 12:25 PM. |
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The Stillen brake cooling kit isn't that hard to install. You have to remove the bearing units and install the new shield behind it. To do that, you have to remove the ABS sensors. Then figure out how you route the hose.
Definitely get the SS brake lines, and get the Z1 brake master cylinder brace.
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I agree with what's been said here. I think you'll get the best improvement from the stainless lines. I would bump up the brake fluid to 660 as well. I cannot speak to the 10/8 combo as I've never run it, but the 12/10 combo gives you unbelievable stopping power and will give you some more pad life. I don't have cooling and I haven't had any fade issues with the brakes, but usually, I cook my tires before I get to brake fade. So I will defer to others on whether you absolutely have to install the cooling kit at this point. |
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I did have an idea for making some GT3-R style ducting for my useless side vents, but I already have too many projects. |
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On the end of the 2nd session, the pedal went to mush and I couldn't slow down enough to make it into turn 16 coming out of Gut Check so I went into pit lane. At first I thought it was driver error, but when I got into the paddock, the pedal was going to the floor. Bled the brakes in the paddock and everything was fine the rest of the weekend. For additional content, this was really strange since I had just bled the brakes the weekend before, put 5 bottles of fluid through it so I was damn sure (so I thought) the OEM fluid was out. When I re-bled them on the track, I bled through less than 1 bottle and like I said, no issues with the brakes the rest of the weekend but they did seem to get softer as the day got hotter and 20-25 mins into the session. |
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