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I had swapped my rear dif. bushing to Whilelines one. I added my DIY vids. install tot he DIY that was already posted. I never really noticed the minor clunk
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,449
Drives: 2010 Nismo
Rep Power: 65 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I had swapped my rear dif. bushing to Whilelines one. I added my DIY vids. install tot he DIY that was already posted. I never really noticed the minor clunk until after my turbo install. I think It might of always been there but I never noticed it. The other thing is that my clutch/flywheel might play a roll in the clunk too. It has a more on/off engagement than the OEM one. I suspect that this quick loading and unloading of the drive train made the cluck more prominent and noticeable.
Anyhoo, I was just under the car inspecting and trying to figure the cluck out. It turns out to be a 2mm or 3mm free play of rotation in the drive shaft and rear differential. I held the rear tires still and I manually turned the drive shaft by hand. The drive shaft is able to turn about 2mm or 3mm before it locks in the other direction. Basically, as you load then unload the drive train, the car will drag (you are off the pedal and friction and the weight of the car will slow) and will make a cluck as the 2mm of free play is used up and the car loads the opposite end of the rear diff. This is like a 1 ton hammer with only 2mm swing tapping the back or front of your car every time you get on and off the gas really fast. I have the OEM tranny mounts but it's on my to buy and install list. YzGyz |
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