Rear differential bushing failure

ValidusVentus · 01-31-2015, 01:40 PM

Yes, its pretty straightforward. But for people without the tools or technical knowledge who would be bringing it to a shop it can be well worth it to do it all as a package. When I skimmed the replies I missed that you were doing it yourself. My bad.

Masterbeatty · 01-31-2015, 02:12 PM

I should of upgraded the bushing when I had nissan put in my quaife. The bushing was horrible to get out and since I did the SPL solid bushing it was a pain to put in too. I needed two people and a grade 8 fine thread bolt, a persuader, and a few grade 8 washers. He whiteline should be a breeze. Just make sure the rear bushing is flush before installing the diff as if it's a c_nt hair off the two forward bolts will not go in!

nis350 · 01-31-2015, 03:26 PM

Is the bushing another weak link on our car much like the CSC?

kenchan · 01-31-2015, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nis350

Is the bushing another weak link on our car much like the CSC?

if you bang gears often, then apparently yes. it was the same way on the 350z/G35C as well...

but ive had my G since 2004... no issue. same or similar 'weak' factory csc.. no issue either.

Masterbeatty · 01-31-2015, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nis350

Is the bushing another weak link on our car much like the CSC?

Yes, if you drive it like a rental car or race it.

Mike · 01-31-2015, 07:14 PM

could just be fluid venting out of the diff also

Big J · 01-31-2015, 09:35 PM

The rear and one of the front bushings was a bitch to get off. I'm putting everything back together now but have a question.

I know the top hats go on the top, where do the little rubber circles go? Or do I not reuse them?

YzGyz · 01-31-2015, 11:23 PM

The two front bushing were a little hard to get out. There were in there tight. I used a big socket and a 16oz hammer at first. The bushing sat there and laffed at me. I then wen tot my gym and grabbed my 20lbs dumbell and gave her one clean wack. I showed it!

As for the rear bushing, it's not bad if you plan and have space. I read as much as I could about it before I did my install. Get the back end as high up as possible, and remove as much of the center part of the OEM bushing out as possible prior to cutting the outside ring. The rubber binds the blade and makes it hard for the blade to cut. I used a bottle jack to push the middle out after I drilled a bunch of holes. It worked beautifully as shown in my videos. It took me a few hours because I was working mostly in the dark (I didn't start untill evening).

I did not use the little rubber disk that was on the bottom of the 2 front OEM bushings.

YzGyz

Big J · 01-31-2015, 11:27 PM

Thanks for the good info. One more question, on the top of the front bushings where the "top hats" are. Do the top hats go in with the petruding part facing down or up?

YzGyz · 02-01-2015, 12:31 AM

When I removed the diff, the "hats' had the protruding bump things up, touching the fram of the car. I reinstalled them the same exact way when I put it back together.

YzGyz

Big J · 02-01-2015, 11:10 AM

Got everything back together. I know the bushing was bad bc there was no fluid at all in it. But the car is still making a clanking sound when I shift.....

YzGyz · 02-01-2015, 12:04 PM

Does it still shift fine? Anything other than the clunk? Check clutch oil? heck, check all the oil.

Big J · 02-01-2015, 01:15 PM

No fluid issues. Shifts fine, just a clunk when I gas it. It is not a continuous sound. Just a clunk when I initially hit the gas

YzGyz · 02-01-2015, 02:00 PM

Humm... maybe it's not the drive train but loose something in suspension? Hard to diagnose from a pc screen.

Big J · 02-01-2015, 11:02 PM

I am 99% sure it's not suspension related bc I have looked it over way to many times. Chexk out this thread I just made in the repair section.

rear end clunk noise

01-31-2015, 01:40 PM	#16 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 22	Yes, its pretty straightforward. But for people without the tools or technical knowledge who would be bringing it to a shop it can be well worth it to do it all as a package. When I skimmed the replies I missed that you were doing it yourself. My bad. __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\| Last edited by ValidusVentus; 01-31-2015 at 01:43 PM.

01-31-2015, 02:12 PM	#17 (permalink)
Masterbeatty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2012 Location: Whales Vagina Posts: 4,586 Drives: the speed limit... Rep Power: 122866	I should of upgraded the bushing when I had nissan put in my quaife. The bushing was horrible to get out and since I did the SPL solid bushing it was a pain to put in too. I needed two people and a grade 8 fine thread bolt, a persuader, and a few grade 8 washers. He whiteline should be a breeze. Just make sure the rear bushing is flush before installing the diff as if it's a c_nt hair off the two forward bolts will not go in! GaleForce likes this. __________________ 2011 MB 6MT Masterbeatty journal

01-31-2015, 07:14 PM	#21 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2185	could just be fluid venting out of the diff also __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

01-31-2015, 11:23 PM	#23 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 62	The two front bushing were a little hard to get out. There were in there tight. I used a big socket and a 16oz hammer at first. The bushing sat there and laffed at me. I then wen tot my gym and grabbed my 20lbs dumbell and gave her one clean wack. I showed it! As for the rear bushing, it's not bad if you plan and have space. I read as much as I could about it before I did my install. Get the back end as high up as possible, and remove as much of the center part of the OEM bushing out as possible prior to cutting the outside ring. The rubber binds the blade and makes it hard for the blade to cut. I used a bottle jack to push the middle out after I drilled a bunch of holes. It worked beautifully as shown in my videos. It took me a few hours because I was working mostly in the dark (I didn't start untill evening). I did not use the little rubber disk that was on the bottom of the 2 front OEM bushings. YzGyz __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

02-01-2015, 12:31 AM	#25 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 62	When I removed the diff, the "hats' had the protruding bump things up, touching the fram of the car. I reinstalled them the same exact way when I put it back together. YzGyz __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

01-31-2015, 03:26 PM	#18 (permalink)
nis350 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: socal Posts: 1,084 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 13434	Is the bushing another weak link on our car much like the CSC?

01-31-2015, 09:35 PM	#22 (permalink)
Big J Track Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Memphis Posts: 905 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	The rear and one of the front bushings was a bitch to get off. I'm putting everything back together now but have a question. I know the top hats go on the top, where do the little rubber circles go? Or do I not reuse them?

01-31-2015, 11:27 PM	#24 (permalink)
Big J Track Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Memphis Posts: 905 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	Thanks for the good info. One more question, on the top of the front bushings where the "top hats" are. Do the top hats go in with the petruding part facing down or up?

02-01-2015, 11:10 AM	#26 (permalink)
Big J Track Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Memphis Posts: 905 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	Got everything back together. I know the bushing was bad bc there was no fluid at all in it. But the car is still making a clanking sound when I shift.....

02-01-2015, 12:04 PM	#27 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 62	Does it still shift fine? Anything other than the clunk? Check clutch oil? heck, check all the oil. __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

02-01-2015, 01:15 PM	#28 (permalink)
Big J Track Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Memphis Posts: 905 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	No fluid issues. Shifts fine, just a clunk when I gas it. It is not a continuous sound. Just a clunk when I initially hit the gas

02-01-2015, 02:00 PM	#29 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 62	Humm... maybe it's not the drive train but loose something in suspension? Hard to diagnose from a pc screen. __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

02-01-2015, 11:02 PM	#30 (permalink)
Big J Track Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Memphis Posts: 905 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 15	I am 99% sure it's not suspension related bc I have looked it over way to many times. Chexk out this thread I just made in the repair section. rear end clunk noise

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