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Plug and Play Bypass Kit (DVD, NAV and backup Camera) Discussion

Originally Posted by wheee! Any thoughts on how to mod the switch top so it doesn't look like a seat heater?! Bedazzle it!!!

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Old 12-06-2010, 07:40 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wheee! View Post
Any thoughts on how to mod the switch top so it doesn't look like a seat heater?!
Bedazzle it!!!

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Old 12-06-2010, 09:16 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bdl99 View Post
Correct on the relay. On the second point I think I may have found the connector for the switch but will need to order one to be sure.

Before I get carried away I want to check on the budget side of things. The harness is actually bigger than the backup camera one with 32 pins vs 24 pins and therefore more time consuming to make (and the backup camera one wasn't quick).

I think the harness is going to come it at about $100 (maybe a little more) and then remote solution will add about $50 and the heated seat switch, connector and relay circuit will be about the same ~$50. $150 for the kit (either switch or remote_ seems expensive to me when it could be achieved for a lot less, but just not plug and play but that is what it is going to take for a plug and play solution.

What do you guys think?
price sounds right, as long as it includes 2 spicy chicken sandwhiches and some halloween candy
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:16 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Brian - the solution your working sounds good and we all appreciate the hard work and the good quality you've delivered so far. The price is at the high end for me...I was thinking it would fall under $100...but its not yet a deal breaker at $150 considering the complications coming to light. Your camera kit was top notch so I hope the price point on this doesn't drive the demand away.

What would the price difference be if there was a partial kit/DIY that could use the same type of switch/remote but may require some splicing?
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:24 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Brian - the solution your working sounds good and we all appreciate the hard work and the good quality you've delivered so far. The price is at the high end for me...I was thinking it would fall under $100...but its not yet a deal breaker at $150 considering the complications coming to light. Your camera kit was top notch so I hope the price point on this doesn't drive the demand away.

What would the price difference be if there was a partial kit/DIY that could use the same type of switch/remote but may require some splicing?
the whole thing with this kit is just that it takes him a long time to make each one, hence the cost is higher.
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:05 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Ya. The labour is the issue on this kit as he is going to be building this wire loom by hand and there are a considerable number of wires that will need to be inserted into each end of the harness, plus the switch/remote configuration.

Keep in mind people, this is a kit that would take a tech a couple of hours to install in a shop ($150 labour there) plus at least a couple of hours to assemble by an electronics tech (wire loom, connectors, config $150) plus parts ($50-$75)

Brian needs a reason to do this other than the goodness of his heart....

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Old 12-07-2010, 09:59 AM   #81 (permalink)
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I would still be interested in the remote option at the $150 price point, but not till after the holidays. I also had a few questions: I haven't had time yet to install my back-up camera kit yet, so I was just wondering if there is enough space behind the dash to hook up the back-up camera kit with the bypass kit and remote module. Also, do these all just plug into each other?
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Old 12-07-2010, 11:18 AM   #82 (permalink)
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The two harnesses plug into different components so they are independent of each other. There is a lot of room behind the nav head so it shouldn't be an issue....
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:23 PM   #83 (permalink)
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$150 does seem a bit steep for me... would a DIY kit be possible where basically we'd be putting the harness together ourselves? and I think I'd probably just get the harness by itself without a switch/remote and figure that out on my own.
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Old 12-07-2010, 04:40 PM   #84 (permalink)
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$150 does seem a bit steep for me... would a DIY kit be possible where basically we'd be putting the harness together ourselves? and I think I'd probably just get the harness by itself without a switch/remote and figure that out on my own.
I could definitely provide the harness without a switch but you would probably be looking at $100 for that for reasons I will explain below.

Putting together the harness is the time consuming part, it involves crimping and soldering lots of tiny pins that are then inserted in to the housings. In theory I could provide a bag of bits, but I don't think many would want that because unless you have had a lot of practice you are likely to make mistakes (I know I did and I play with this stuff all the time). You would also need the correct tools that you would likely have to purchase. I think anyone inclined enough to do that would probably have gone the complete DIY route.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:02 PM   #85 (permalink)
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The heated seat switch is a three position rocker. It will perform the correct function depending on the design of the switch. If it is a logic circuit switch, then we might have problems. If it is solely a mechanical switch, we are good. My dealer says I will have it within the week. Downside is the switch is almost $40. Upside is the switch is a perfect match and fit for the console...
The switch is $16 through Southwest Nissan . However, I was told they are extremely hard to find.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:32 PM   #86 (permalink)
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The switch is $16 through Southwest Nissan . However, I was told they are extremely hard to find.
I order one from Courtesy Nissan which was ~$19 plus the connector and Shipping and the total came to nearer $45. Nowhere appeared to have any in-stock so I hope it doesn't take too long.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:22 AM   #87 (permalink)
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I order one from Courtesy Nissan which was ~$19 plus the connector and Shipping and the total came to nearer $45. Nowhere appeared to have any in-stock so I hope it doesn't take too long.
So would it be worth it for us to put our order in for the switch? or is that something you would be providing along with the kit? If we need to order the switch ourselves, what is the part number for it?
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:57 AM   #88 (permalink)
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So would it be worth it for us to put our order in for the switch? or is that something you would be providing along with the kit? If we need to order the switch ourselves, what is the part number for it?
Lets see what turns up and then decide. If the switch works there may be some benefit in ordering in bulk for savings on shipping. I also want to take a look at the connector, it may be cheaper for me to attach my own but wont know until it turns up.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:14 AM   #89 (permalink)
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I wasn't certain so I thought I would go take my car to pieces and the switch looks be exactly the same. Did you meter in situ?

Looking at the switch

1 2
3
4
5 6

It looks to me like 2 and 6 are the illumination circuit and if measured in situ that would explain the lower voltage

3 is +12V from relay feed for heated seats
1 goes positive in one position (1 and 3 being connected)
4 goes positive in the other position (3 and 4 being connected)
5 is ground use to illuminate the position 1 and 2 lights based on position of switch

and obviously in the central position 3 isn't connected to either 1 or 4
This is a great thread guys, and it makes me wish I had Nav! I don't mean to thread jack (as I am trying to figure out the wiring of the heated seat switch for another purpose), but am wondering if anyone has confirmed the above diagram? I'm a rookie with a multimeter (although I have a helper, my daughter's boyfriend who is a car audio nut), but it seems to me (us) that:
1=positive to high position
2=illumination of high pilot light
3=power from 12v source
4=positive to low posotion
5=8v illum from "headlights on" source
6=illumination of low pilot light

Anyone able to confirm or correct this?
Thanks
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:51 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ProfessorDave View Post
This is a great thread guys, and it makes me wish I had Nav! I don't mean to thread jack (as I am trying to figure out the wiring of the heated seat switch for another purpose), but am wondering if anyone has confirmed the above diagram? I'm a rookie with a multimeter (although I have a helper, my daughter's boyfriend who is a car audio nut), but it seems to me (us) that:
1=positive to high position
2=illumination of high pilot light
3=power from 12v source
4=positive to low posotion
5=8v illum from "headlights on" source
6=illumination of low pilot light

Anyone able to confirm or correct this?
Thanks
That certainly differs from the switch I was looking at, but that was in a GT-R. I have a 370z switch on order so will confirm when it arrives.

We appear to agree on 1, 3 & 4

I'm surprised there in no ground/earth in your list but will see when the switch arrives. Did you meter the plug while disconnected from the switch?
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