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Question regarding tweeters and wiring

So, HU and just recently the door speakers were replaced with Lanzar OPTI6PM. It took me awhile to find the right spacer for the 6.5", and really don't want to

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Old 07-06-2017, 09:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Question regarding tweeters and wiring

So, HU and just recently the door speakers were replaced with Lanzar OPTI6PM. It took me awhile to find the right spacer for the 6.5", and really don't want to go through the hassle again with the tweeters.

From what I gather you need to run wires? Not using an amp, the HU is good enough to power the Lanzar's, so can I just use the wiring that the stock tweeters have in place? For a cutout that fits an aftermarket 1" there's some good ideas on here, will buy a cutout if I can find one, or just make it out of thick cardboard or someone else said a DVD case .

Finally, what tweeters would you guys recommend?
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Old 07-06-2017, 11:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Those door speakers seem excessively more powerful than any headunit can possibly drive. A lot of tweeter kits come with adapter brackets to fit into numerous factory spaces.

Are you replacing the speakers placed in the dashboard panels up top? or putting it into the bracket where the door speaker is? This doesn't seem like a logical position for those speakers, with or without an amplifier you will most likely see reduced sound quality with a tweeter being in the same position down by your feet. You are better off changing out the speaker in the dash.

If for whatever reason your car didn't come with speakers in the top mount location, its best you add them there.

Sonicelectronix.com has been my go to place for car A/V stuff and they have a great selection and tons of properly categorized info. If you don't plan on getting a dedicated amplifier for this, its best you keep the RMS under 20watts. The headunit will probably send about 15-25watts rms at best.

Not sure if this site still offers these adapters, but here is what is listed to get the job done.

PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
purchase according to the size tweeter you plan on getting.

Last edited by MaysEffect; 07-07-2017 at 03:15 AM.
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Old 07-07-2017, 02:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by night blade View Post
So, HU and just recently the door speakers were replaced with Lanzar OPTI6PM. It took me awhile to find the right spacer for the 6.5", and really don't want to go through the hassle again with the tweeters.

From what I gather you need to run wires? Not using an amp, the HU is good enough to power the Lanzar's, so can I just use the wiring that the stock tweeters have in place? For a cutout that fits an aftermarket 1" there's some good ideas on here, will buy a cutout if I can find one, or just make it out of thick cardboard or someone else said a DVD case .

Finally, what tweeters would you guys recommend?
I have not mounted any 1" tweeters on 370Z yet but, I have on other vehicles though. Searching for the correct cutout sounds like a good idea. I highly recommend Alpine or Kicker 1" tweeters as I a had the best luck with them.
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Old 07-07-2017, 02:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Will take a look at Alpine or Kicker thanks Quicksilvers.

MaysEffect, door speakers were already replaced with 6.5" Lanzars, talking about the tweeters on top which take 1" only. And yeah I can't possibly get the full usage of the Lanzars without an amp, but they still sound fantastic over the stock speakers .
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Old 07-07-2017, 01:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Will take a look at Alpine or Kicker thanks Quicksilvers.

MaysEffect, door speakers were already replaced with 6.5" Lanzars, talking about the tweeters on top which take 1" only. And yeah I can't possibly get the full usage of the Lanzars without an amp, but they still sound fantastic over the stock speakers .

Gotcha, In any case, no matter the brand, i recommend a hard domed tweeter rated between 15-30 watts rms.

Silk dome or paper/fabric domes will not withstand heat as well (sun point directly down on these) nor have better upper mids attenuation. Also they can't survive distortion as well as hard dome tweeters. Given the fact the speaker placement isn't firing directly towards you, the slightly brighter sound of the hard dome design will not be anywhere near as harsh.

Here is a small list -

MB-quart - ZT1-25 (best quality), DT1-25, XT1-20
Pioneer TS-T110 (recommended)
Rockford Fosgate PRIME R1T-S

I checked with the speaker adapter site, and they do still offer these adapters.
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Old 07-07-2017, 01:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Don't forget that since you are replacing the components ad-hoc and not using a kit, you will need to figure the crossovers as well.

From the factory, the OEM tweeter and woofer on each side are connected in parallel with the OEM woofer getting full range signal and the OEM tweeter having a built on crossover filtered at around 8.5kHz.

You'll need to add your own crossover to the loop.

In my setup, I went to a Pioneer headunit and used the built in active crossovers to clean up/power up the signal going to the OEM speakers. Made a pretty big difference...
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Old 07-07-2017, 03:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Don't forget that since you are replacing the components ad-hoc and not using a kit, you will need to figure the crossovers as well.

You'll need to add your own crossover to the loop.


Many tweeter kits nowadays come with a inline crossover. Most of the ones on the list i made include them.
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Last edited by MaysEffect; 07-07-2017 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 07-08-2017, 07:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks everyone, going to check out some hard dome tweeters today .
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Old 07-10-2017, 02:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaysEffect View Post
Gotcha, In any case, no matter the brand, i recommend a hard domed tweeter rated between 15-30 watts rms.

Silk dome or paper/fabric domes will not withstand heat as well (sun point directly down on these) nor have better upper mids attenuation. Also they can't survive distortion as well as hard dome tweeters. Given the fact the speaker placement isn't firing directly towards you, the slightly brighter sound of the hard dome design will not be anywhere near as harsh.

Here is a small list -

MB-quart - ZT1-25 (best quality), DT1-25, XT1-20
Pioneer TS-T110 (recommended)
Rockford Fosgate PRIME R1T-S

I checked with the speaker adapter site, and they do still offer these adapters.
Went with the Pioneer, no store had it in stock around here so Amazon order, will install them next week, thanks for the advice.
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I went with Focal component speakers so it came with both doors and tweeters. I also did a JL 10w3v3 sub. the focals came with a crossover kit and I had to run new wires for the tweets and doors together. was pretty simple to run with the instructions, I got some thin craft metal from home depot or lowes and dremeled a square and cut a hole through it and layered some cardboard to hold the tweeter in place. a little custom but you can never tell and it sounds perfect.
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Old 07-26-2017, 12:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Just a quick update, it's all done! HU, Mid's and Tweeters all installed, that and a previously installed Bazooka powered Sub and no more updates for awhile. Sounds great, thanks for the advice on the Pioneer TS-T110 MaysEffect.

Still have one issue, the driver side door squeaks! off to another sub forum to ask.
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