The "Will it fit?" thread

[MaysEffect]

optionZ - Did you look at how much internal space you have to the strut and inner liner?

[OptionZero]

Originally Posted by MaysEffect

optionZ - Did you look at how much internal space you have to the strut and inner liner?

Didn't measure it, confident i didn't need to given how many people run crappier . . . i mean, more conservative fitments.

If they fit, i can fit, since i'm mainly pushing outward. i don't experience any rubbing except on the steepiest of ramps taken in correctly (so driver laziness). preserving my front bumper is a bigger concern than rubbing, which is why i haven't gotten a front lip yet. if i get a cup kit, i'd feel ok with a lip

The Z has cavernous wheel wells, which is why I frequently tell people that once they step up to adjustable suspension components (basically, SPL everything) and a good set of coilovers with independent height adjustment and find a good alignment shop, there is nothing you can't fit

if u want to run zero offset and dump the car, you can do it
if u want to stuff as much tire as possible, you can do it
and of course u can do everything in between

all it takes is adjusting the height, camber, and caster, plus a fender roller (most places charge like $100 for all 4 corners, they should even discount u if you're getting other stuff done)

FYI - the guys on the track forum seem to be running 285 and/or 295, albeit in much sticker compounds than street guys. anything else is really just looks or for turbo

[jchammond]

Originally Posted by OptionZero

what sizes did you end up going with?

because with my 20x12 +20 rears i have a ton more room
i have a 315/25/20 and my alignment guy and i both eyeballed it. I could go either to a 325, or go even more aggressive with a 20x11 +0, or run even less camber (currently at -2)

this is even at my height, which is top of tire barely under fender

i'm assuming you will not be as low, so you should EASILY be able to fit a 325/25/20 on a 20x12 +20, which will look fantastic. this is GTR fitment wheel/tire from rays/advan

if i ever get around to buying more wheels, i'd probably get something like:
grip: 285/30/20 and 325/25/20 on 20x10.5 +24 and 20x12 +20
street: 245/35/20 and 285/20 on 20x10 +0 and 20x11 +0

and slap on a cup kit when i get a raise, lol


i don't know why you need a 345 with N/A. turbo guys sure

Mine was primarily for the look's,but still will blister them if desired...they have added 1 sec. to my 0-125mph,,,so looking into a gear swap-but loving the ride/handling on the 27" tires.
The 20" wheel's will actually give a tad more backspace clearance,as they will fill the groove in the upper front's & help clear the traction arm bolt...Would have to go Forgeline w/20's,,,if i get the opportunity...eyeballing the SPL book at fuca's,mid-link's,camber,traction arms & a good lowering spring that's around 1" or so.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by OptionZero

what sizes did you end up going with?

because with my 20x12 +20 rears i have a ton more room
i have a 315/25/20 and my alignment guy and i both eyeballed it. I could go either to a 325, or go even more aggressive with a 20x11 +0, or run even less camber (currently at -2)

this is even at my height, which is top of tire barely under fender

i'm assuming you will not be as low, so you should EASILY be able to fit a 325/25/20 on a 20x12 +20, which will look fantastic. this is GTR fitment wheel/tire from rays/advan

if i ever get around to buying more wheels, i'd probably get something like:
grip: 285/30/20 and 325/25/20 on 20x10.5 +24 and 20x12 +20
street: 245/35/20 and 285/20 on 20x10 +0 and 20x11 +0

and slap on a cup kit when i get a raise, lol


i don't know why you need a 345 with N/A. turbo guys sure

Go BIG or go home. Why do you need 20's? 19's are enough.

[OptionZero]

simple
for looks
and at the time, the 19 inch TE37 didn't have enough concavity
of course, as soon as i ordered it, the 19 inch TE37 ultra was released

but i still prefer 20s for looks

tall *** tires do nothing for me

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by OptionZero

simple
for looks
and at the time, the 19 inch TE37 didn't have enough concavity
of course, as soon as i ordered it, the 19 inch TE37 ultra was released

but i still prefer 20s for looks

tall *** tires do nothing for me

and I don't like gum bands wrapped around my rims either.

[Spooler]

Front Spec: 19x10.0 +29
Rear Spec: 19x11.5 +30

Tires sizes are Front 285/35/19, Rear 325/30/19, RE11's for both.

I can't afford to get too crazy with the camber due to driving 25,000 to 30,000 miles a year. So that was a big factor. I had a chance to buy 20' top of the line 3 piece wheels but I passed. I prefer to run the RE11's due to how sticky they are and how long they last. Spinning the 325's running NA right now with the OS Giken LSD is very hard to do. LOL I could dump the clutch and get them spinning but I just don't see the need.

[jchammond]

Be sure & get an accurate measure on clearance; as would not be good to buy 2 more tires & they scrub also...slight rake makes fuel gauge more accurate (lol).
I'm 26.8"F & 27.1"R drives great.

[pumpgas89]

Did more internet reading.. 265/35 Pirelli p zero is slight wide than re-11 265/35 by 0.2 inches.
So definitely going with 255/35. this seems the general setup, comparing anyone running a 18x9 +15 in front, in the forum.

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[jchammond]

Originally Posted by pumpgas89

Did more internet reading.. 265/35 Pirelli p zero is slight wide than re-11 265/35 by 0.2 inches.
So definitely going with 255/35. this seems the general setup, comparing anyone running a 18x9 +15 in front, in the forum.

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Just be sure & keep front/rear tire diameter differential to a minimum.
I've always heard max 3%, but around 2% is more common.
Too much & lots of warning lights will be lit up on dash ( Christmas Tree effect),,,so keep that in consideration if you stagger tire diameter.

[pumpgas89]

If my maths is right...
Percentage difference 26" -25" diameter

(((26-25)/(26+25))/2)*100 = 1.07%

1.07% shouldn't be noticeable then...

Thanks for the input

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[OptionZero]

OH MY GOD

Following that exchange between jhammond and pumpgas is making my fuckin head hurt.

ARGH

1) Regarding the wheel diameter difference:
255/35/18 is 25 inches
265/40/18 is 26.3 inches

That is a 1.3 inch difference. 1.3 inches is 5.2% of 25 inches. You are likely to experience warning lights due to this difference.

2) Why your setup looks and fits different than this setup you're looking at:
Thats a 265/35/18. You bought, apparently because they're cheap, 265/40/18. Thats obviously a taller tire AND the linked car has -2.4 deg camber, which solves the rubbing issue

Combine lack of camber and taller tire = rubbing more than that guy.

Your car naturally gains negative camber as you go lower, but the correct way to do it is to buy adjustable suspension parts, roll your fenders, and then you can run whatever wheels you want.

If you want a cheap fix, just get the 265/35 and pound your fenders

but you really should just buy the fukin SPL and save yourself future headache

[MaysEffect]

You'd most likely have no problematic symptoms other than fitment. The problem comes with the rolling speed of the rear tires are faster than the front. In that case ABS and traction control may fail, abs would start fluttering or release the brake pressure, traction intervention would be way more intrusive. With the rear tires larger than the front, the RPM of the rear is slower.

On most approved ABS systems, the difference is 4% at 60mph, as tested by many, if not all major manufactures.

[pumpgas89]

Yikes! Can't thank everyone enough. Just bought spc front upper control arms. Before you guys freak out, I have read the countless accounts between spc and spl.. I truly believe spc will be enough for what I am capable to do with the car. Since my rears fits fine, I'll be leaving it as is.

My goal is to not roll my fenders forgo thread life, bc stance life. Anyways, I do believe the -2.4° will be good for handling provided it was taken from track spec...

I'll be posting finished product over in 18s thread and I'll edit a link here.

Again, thank you all for the input and care. Awesome community! Another reason I bought the Z, the helpful community of z owners.


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[MaysEffect]

I failed to mention that the caveat of this inverse wheel speed, is that ABS and Traction control may fail to properly engage in the adverse scenario as it wont detect a significant wheel speed difference unless you lock the wheels. So you will be much more prone to locking the wheels and then ABS might kick in late and cause some annoying sensations, certainly in wet situations.

TC may allow more wheel spin as well, which may sound fine in a straight line, but not so much through a corner. In such case you may want to drive with TC off. The problem with incorrect TC intervention isn't oversteer, but understeer and snap direction changes when TC finally engages, which in almost all cases is much much worse. Going *** in to a crash is safer than nose first. Of course there is much more to this "scenario", but those are the potential drama's.

The other issue is the decrease in caster, adding to the already low caster angles, the steering will be even more loose then roll into annoying low speed understeer as the rear wheels drag through the corner. A immediate correction here would be to add toe-in front, more positive camber in the rear (+-.05)

Sorry for the preaching.