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Originally Posted by wstar Either way, the burden of proof is still technically on the manufacturer to show that you caused the problem. If the car has a defective camshaft
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: SoCal
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Quote:
On my first hand experience, BMW 535i was chipped, motor blew at 30k miles, and a few days later BMW HQ called and informed me that the car's ECU was reset but their black box had data logged a higher amount of air and fuel being dumped into the car over a prolonged period of time.. SOL Another friend in Dallas had ONLY a NST pulley kit, one day was driving, pulley sheared... He reinstalled the OEM crank pulley and belt, and it was wobbling, drove to the dealer, the OEM cast iron crank pulley sheared! Now I believe the crankshaft was defective that even the stock pulley would wobble... But they proved he had an aftermarket pulley and corporate declined all repairs... Paid out of pocket for a new motor... Again, the dealer, if you find the right one may be able to pull strings and pull some shady work so you keep them as your main dealer, and hell, they make money off a warranty engine swap, so they SHOULDN'T care... (If the dealer is accused of foul play, the dealership gets fined several times the cost of the repair) Again for a catastrophic engine failure, unless you REALLY do have a great dealershit (Brandon, you have Baker North and South, so you're taken care of) you're gonna be SOL by tuning your car when it's warranty time So if you're willing to bet your $500-1000 tune plus the cost of a new motor for the extra xHP, and no throttle delay, which I haven't experienced, and the ability to take your limiter off so you can go 200mph, by all means, do it... Hell, I'm an Econ major, by all means tune your car, 99% of the money you pay goes into Americans' pockets, it supports the economy! ![]() In my opinion the stock ECU will adjust the A/F ratios enough to get the best HP out of your mods if you give it enough time to adjust, making the effects of a tune minimal |
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