Can I use Ecutek? help

Jayhovah

Awesome! I am looking forward to hearing your results.

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elperuano

Unobtanium???

hooey_b

wiki that ish

hooey_b

ok, so here's some more details I found out as of last night:

I talked to Tony of Autosports Engineering down in Florida, he's the one who has gotten it to work!

so there are two different ways, depending on how much money you're willing to spend/blow:

1) obtain an ECM of like model and drivetrain, an 09 or 2010, and it's a straight swap out with a reprogramming of the NATS, BCM, and key to get it operational again. You'll need someone with knowledge of and access to the Nissan Consult Diagnostic tool to do the re-programming, or just go to the dealership.

2) if you get something from 2011 or later, you're going to need to swap out the ENTIRE WIRING HARNESS. I'll leave it at that lol.

Big shout out to Tony (Autosports Engineering) for being the one to give the final solution to the problem w/ details, also shout out to Jon P of Z1, Nakia Bramwell, Tobin Sinclaire (Ecutek), and Mike Mixon (bullitt5897) for providing the knowledge/references to help the research. I just dropped $$$ on a bunch of other stuff thinking it would be a while before I found a way for this to work, so it'll be a min (few months) before I get any headway on this stage of the project.

RadioFlyer

Awesome, so there you have it folks! Thanks for chasing it down to a final answer.

Did you happen to ask if it can be done by sending in both ECUs? Or does the 09-11 ECU have to be in the car when the reprogramming is done? Just wondering if this can be a service that a shop can offer.

hooey_b

I didn't ask that directly, but I'd imagine no. You'd have to program the vehicle's VIN into it, as well as the key..but you don't need the older ECU. 2008-2010 are interchangeable, just as long as you have a base map .rom file loaded to it and the NATS disabled/bypassed/fixed. That all can be done with the Nissan Consult Remember, 2011 and later you need to swap the entire harness and modules along with the ecu.

I'm assuming it'd be easier to either go to the dealership with it and say your ECM is acting screwy and you want it all re-programmed to work, or you can find a local guy who knows how to do it.

I think I'm going through Tony in Florida to purchase AND re-program the ecu...all I'd have to do is get Ecutek flashed on (and probably reprogram the key). I found a guy local to me who can do the reprogramming part, but as with any service, I couldn't find a track record of the guy's work, so I'm leaning toward pulling into the dealership, swapping the ecu in the parking lot, and tell them that my ish don't work when I walk in lol.

JARblue

Like Chuck said, Joe is mostly a Mazda guy. I wouldn't recommend his e-tune services due to the experience a number of forum members had. But I dropped my Z off at his shop personally for a drive tune, and I was very happy with the experience and results

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familyguy4756

Yeah i cleaned up the TB and flushed out the upper (which was nasssty dirty) and cleaned up some of the sloppy edges on the oem upper. I also did plugs at the same time ( all done last summer). The only thing I couldn't clean out was the lower.

I now have r2c, ART TP, aftermarket y , fujitsubo axle back. No tune yet which could clear up most of the issues?

hooey_b

Yeah. Rule of thumb I've heard is that if you have exhaust AND intake mods, a tune should be warranted to gain max power.

hooey_b

Csc failure as of 3 days ago...car is at Z1 getting the master slave and CSC elimination kit installed, so this part of the build is going to be indefinitely postponed for me.

Fml

familyguy4756

ugh! Sorry to hear! My CSC went at 85k (last summer) so I went with the heavy duty and a stage 2 Southbend clutch and quiet 1 piece flywheel.

Didn't know about the elimination kit at the time! let me know how it drives with that kit!

hooey_b

So firsts, I think the design alone is worth the cost. I was going to get this modification eventually, but...well, ish happens. The fact that they repositioned the hydraulic actuation to OUTSIDE the bell housing will save much heartache and smouldering pockets for not having to drop the transmission.

Clutch pedal pressure is amazing, as is the grip of the clutch now. I used to experience a spongy feel and a lag when I would initially shift I to a gear. This completely eliminated that, there's a clear cut point at which I feel the clutch engage, not to mention the smoothness of it is second to sex. It's like a switch now, either I'm in gear or 8m not. No more shuddering because of revs not matching exactly. What little power there was left finally could make contact with the ground, and the feel of the throttle became snappier too. Still have the oem clutch and flywheel, around 60k miles on it. Zach and Rob at Z1 said that it looked pretty good still...this was an unexpected expense, so I left it in. I'll eventually get the Z1 clutch and light flywheel when this one goes in another 2 years or so.

However, it's pretty damn expensive if you don't do the work yourself...I paid over $1300 to have it done properly at Z1. Pretty much what I was going to use for the ecu and tune...

elperuano

Yes, 2008 can tune with Ecutek.

Kojack

has anyone tried with 5speed auto?

hooey_b

No can do, anything post 2009 is 7AT.

Sry mayne.