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For C-Street anyways, there's no "secret" for car setup that will "fix" your problems. It's just not possible to get the car to handle well without changing suspension components. IMHO,

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Old 09-07-2014, 11:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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For C-Street anyways, there's no "secret" for car setup that will "fix" your problems. It's just not possible to get the car to handle well without changing suspension components. IMHO, the trick to being successful in Stock/Street class is learning to drive around any given car's limitations.

For example, to address your issue of oversteer while power out of/through corners: In my car, I am rarely at full throttle. The diff just gets pissed off if you try to use full throttle with the wheel turned at all.

In our car, you've gotta be super smooth rolling onto the throttle, especially powering out of corners, and unless you're going dead straight, you pretty much can't ever be 100%.

I wish I had data to support this claim, but I would imagine a majority of the time I'm on the throttle, it's between half and 7/8ths.


Here's are all the setup details for my car:
Eibach front bar, stiffer setting.
Koni Yellow off-the-shelf shocks (rebound adjustment only). 6/10 in the front, 8/10 rear
Stock front camber (~.7°)
Minimum rear camber (~1.2°) to help the diff not suck as much
0 front toe, ~1/8" rear toe in
stock wheels, 275/35R19 Hankook RS3 V2 tires on all 4

Perhaps the rear camber is the odd thing out there... I set it that way on the initial alignment and never changed it. The theory is that standing the rears up more would help even out rear grip while cornering, making the diff have to do less work.
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Last edited by stuy486; 09-07-2014 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 09-12-2014, 02:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by stuy486 View Post
For C-Street anyways, there's no "secret" for car setup that will "fix" your problems. It's just not possible to get the car to handle well without changing suspension components. IMHO, the trick to being successful in Stock/Street class is learning to drive around any given car's limitations.

For example, to address your issue of oversteer while power out of/through corners: In my car, I am rarely at full throttle. The diff just gets pissed off if you try to use full throttle with the wheel turned at all.

In our car, you've gotta be super smooth rolling onto the throttle, especially powering out of corners, and unless you're going dead straight, you pretty much can't ever be 100%.

I wish I had data to support this claim, but I would imagine a majority of the time I'm on the throttle, it's between half and 7/8ths.


Here's are all the setup details for my car:
Eibach front bar, stiffer setting.
Koni Yellow off-the-shelf shocks (rebound adjustment only). 6/10 in the front, 8/10 rear
Stock front camber (~.7°)
Minimum rear camber (~1.2°) to help the diff not suck as much
0 front toe, ~1/8" rear toe in
stock wheels, 275/35R19 Hankook RS3 V2 tires on all 4

Perhaps the rear camber is the odd thing out there... I set it that way on the initial alignment and never changed it. The theory is that standing the rears up more would help even out rear grip while cornering, making the diff have to do less work.
question, I hear a lot of people saying the rear end is real loose on these cars, if so couldnt you go softer front setting on the eibach or softer on the koni fronts to help the rear stay in shape more ofter? im getting my 370 next week and already have koni yellows and rs-3's on order just trying to get a good starting point for next season
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Old 09-12-2014, 03:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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question, I hear a lot of people saying the rear end is real loose on these cars, if so couldnt you go softer front setting on the eibach or softer on the koni fronts to help the rear stay in shape more ofter? im getting my 370 next week and already have koni yellows and rs-3's on order just trying to get a good starting point for next season
You actually want to do the opposite of what you're suggesting. Stiff front bar and shocks up front and softer in the rear.
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