Sway Bars, Track and AutoX?

Apollo8642

Gentlemen, to those who posted useful info thank you, it's appreciated.

I think I'm going to try a Hotchkis front bar, and probably the White Line rear bar, then it will be time to get some skid pad testing done.

Thanks again.

PS. No reason to try to split c$nt hairs on this stuff, these are just opinions. Of course some opinions are better then others.

GSS138

Back to OPs original question lol, maybe describe to us why you think you need more sway bar up front. The understeer on our cars is pretty bad, the sway does help us out a lot by helping the front end stay flatter and not roll, but the correction to understeer is really a secondary benefit of the sway bar on our car. I will probably get corrected on saying that, but at least in my mind a sway bar's primary function is to kill body roll(which can accentuate/compound understeer or oversteer-in our case it is understeer).


If the roll is what you are trying to cure, my best suggestion is take Clint's advice, it's pretty much the same advice Doran racing gives, and pretty much the same advice every track goer with a 370z I know gives. Stiff as possible front bar and then a soft rear to tune it in at let the car rotate. Stock our car always seem to have the nose pointing to the outside in tough corners, never really makes that good pivot like you see the Evo's doing

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martin82

WELD ON ROLL BAR to be correct!

Sh0velMan

Bolt on is better.

Unless you have hard data to prove my spurious statement incorrect, I'm right and you're wrong.

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martin82

LOL only lap times count bro!

Sh0velMan

Nope, too many factors. You must have a laboratory-tested roll-over study with at least 20 units and provide your results for a peer review before I will concede that you may not be a total idiot. That's the only way.

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Chuck33079

Oh please. Like you learn anything at the track. On ramps and hills are where you really learn what you and your car are made of.

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matcop

Running super stiff front sway bar. No sway bar in the rear. I M O your front sway will carry through to the rear. You want the rear to be a lil soft for full contact in the corners.

Running Kw3's with Custom valving and modified SPL A arms (before they came out with the official 370 z ones)

also running 18x10.5 square setup with 1" spacer in rear. tire size 285/35/18

All work was set up by Robispec. He does very good work !

clintfocus

that's robi's style, square and big front bar, no rear bar LOL
what front bar are you running?

gomer_110

Syno, I'm guessing you don't have an engineering background since you seem very confused on how deflection calculations are made. The "I" column in the chart is "Moment of Inertia". It plays a huge role in how much something will deflect (how stiff it is).

fwiw I have a degree in mechanical engineering so I do know a thing or two about these kind of things.

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synolimit

I understand that. Even plugged the numbers in myself so yes I see long bar vs long bar there is a difference. But if metals are not the exact same and mounting points are not in the same location (WL is adjustable, hotchkis is not) then we don't have a winner. we still need to see torsion testing on the actually bar and not just a round piece of tube numbers. That's why I like the chart, just not 100% and why I still like data vs opinion.

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Eagle

I don't think isolated testing like torsion tests are going to be as valuable as telemetry and lap times. Simplest question to ask yourself is...did it make me go faster? Can't really do that safely and consistently anywhere else other than at the track.

When you test it on the track you test the entire solution, driver, car and the part that has been changed.

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GSS138

Syno, there is a place called Mid Ohio, go. It will answer all your questions.

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synolimit

Will do, raced there many times. But please lay off the lease and track experience comments with this car!

Who the **** here had a Z gutted, track prepping, custom brake duct lines, cut a OEM hood up, LTH, custom CBE, custom diff cooler etc etc, all within the first 5 months of ownership??! I bet almost 100% of you didn't! Rome wasn't built in a ******* day and my track car won't be either so relax.

And yeah it's leased. $400 a month now and after I buy it unless they drop my residual since the 14 residuals will be a couple grand cheaper around the same turn in time. Better than $657 a month limiting me on buying parts monthly. Yeah in the end of payments ill end up spending about 2k more but 2k over all that time is nothing when I'm saving $257 a month in the now.

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synolimit

True, I agree. But if a part was truly better/bigger/stronger/stiffer than a driver should be able to get into a car without knowing what was changed and go faster. If not then what was the point of spending the money? If these cars love big front bars then a torsion test would be valuable data for people to plainly see "I need that one."

Seems everyone likes the hotchkins here while a thread in 12 everyone was hating on it. Stating WL and stillen did testing while Hotchkins just slapped it on a car and flicked the wheel back and forth to show youtubers its stiffer. Chrisslicks even stated its poor R&D and a lot of tuning had to go into his settings to make up for it. To each their own.

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