tested ms confirmed - "stop lamp" fuse pulled = stand still burnouts allowed

Japanjay · 06-09-2015, 04:35 PM

I am curious to actually how much pressure is still being applied to the rear brakes when doing this? Obviously this isn't like line lock, which is what, if given the option, I would do, but I am going to be installing my Z1 2 piece rotors with XP10's on the rear and I don't want to destroy the rotors nor the pads.

phunk · 06-09-2015, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Japanjay

I am curious to actually how much pressure is still being applied to the rear brakes when doing this? Obviously this isn't like line lock, which is what, if given the option, I would do, but I am going to be installing my Z1 2 piece rotors with XP10's on the rear and I don't want to destroy the rotors nor the pads.

IMHO, by the time you have a tire on the back of your car worth doing a long burnout with, you will have removed those brakes for base model 350z brakes and 15-16" wheels.

Japanjay · 06-09-2015, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

IMHO, by the time you have a tire on the back of your car worth doing a long burnout with, you will have removed those brakes for base model 350z brakes and 15-16" wheels.

I agree with you, if I was going for fully drag racing. I would also add go about a degree positive camber on the rear and 20k springs. But I want to do a little drag racing here and there while still building towards road racing. A controllable brake bias system would ideal....

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06-09-2015, 04:35 PM	#1 (permalink)
Japanjay Track Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Puyallup Posts: 856 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z MB M6 Rep Power: 15	I am curious to actually how much pressure is still being applied to the rear brakes when doing this? Obviously this isn't like line lock, which is what, if given the option, I would do, but I am going to be installing my Z1 2 piece rotors with XP10's on the rear and I don't want to destroy the rotors nor the pads.