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Originally Posted by Spooler Yeah, that is not enough spring. I would want at least 13k front and 11k rear. And the the rates in the former link are even
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#2 (permalink) |
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Do you have any info regarding the the acceptable range of spring rates these dampers can take before needing re valving? Most dampers can change by like 1-2k without issue. I'm sure these are great, but if a person needs to buy these and then another set of springs, and then send them out to be serviced all before even going on the car, that puts their price closer to~$3100 and a lot of downtime. It would be nice if these were sold from a vendor willing to send these out with buyer specs, especially at the $2000+ price point.
Sorry if it feels like I'm being critical, I just want as much info available as possible, otherwise this is just an ad. edit: so it seems some vendors will do exactly that. Still no info on the range these can take, but these will need a re-valve if you plan to run closer to the 1.90+ hertz range. https://www.sakebombgarage.com/ohlin...ilovers-s2000/ Last edited by Brendan; 02-04-2019 at 08:36 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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From what I’ve seen Ohlins says their shocks can take a 30% increase or decrease without revalving. The R&T spring rates are 11F 10R. So 14 should be fine up front and 13 rear.
But if in doubt, give Ohlins USA a call. Certainly don’t buy them if your desired spring rates exceed the shock limits.
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#4 (permalink) |
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And no need to be sorry about being critical. This is the track section. Accurate information, critical or not, belongs in this part of the form.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Will definitely be buying these. I inquired back in the fall about their availability in the US. The dampers are top notch, would try them with the given springs before changing to stiffer ones.
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#6 (permalink) |
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I have the Ohlins TTX36 installed for a couple months now, and it’s much much better than my previous DFV that I had for 3yr.
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#7 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Lol yea no xiet. Congrats on the new setup!
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#8 (permalink) |
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Thank you! I’m still playing with it, but so far i already improved my lap time by almost 1sec and there’s still plenty room to go. iPhoneTapatalk
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#10 (permalink) |
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![]() I got the 3way version of TTX36 from PSi, and I already have every possible SPL parts installed. Originally I had the Hotchikis front and no rear bar, but after a couple times on track this year I find the front Hotchkis not needed anymore so now I have the OEM front bar back. iPhoneTapatalk
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#11 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Good lord, we went from talking about the DFV to staring at a set of 3 way TTX36...haha haha love it!
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#12 (permalink) |
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I've got PSI making me a set of 2-way Ohlins TTX. I run them on some of my other cars, and like them a lot.
My current Ohlins DFV's were custom valved by PSI as well, running 900F/1000R (non-coilover rear). Will use the same spring rates with the TTX. I prefer the divorced rear setup. I'll actually be posting up my custom valved DFV's for sale soon. They have super low miles (less than 3K). It's a great setup for this car to be honest, especially when you valve them for higher rates. Between the TTX and my OS Giken LSD tune/rebuild, the car should be a lot better on track!
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#13 (permalink) |
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I have no idea how people are running this car with no rear bar, or just stock rear bar with a huge Hotchkis front bar. I run this car on square 275 tire and staggered setup (275/295 or 265/285).
On all tire setups, I still run my Hotchkis rear on full stiff, with 1000lb rear springs (divorced OE setup) along with a 900lb front spring. The car handles perfectly neutral on 275/295 (18" tires) and 265/285 (19" tires) for the track. On square it's just a bit free. I don't understand how people drive these cars without frustration on track. I guess people like understeer. Reminds me of E92 M3 land, where all the owners don't install a rear aftermarket swaybar simply because it's difficult, and then run a very small spring split. I run the hotchkis rear on full stiff in that car on square tire setup with no aero and the car handles beautifully. Again, people must like understeer.
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2014-Nismo 370Z / 2025-992 GT3RS / 2024-C8 Z07 / 2018-991.2 GT3 / 2011-997.2 GT3RS / 2016-981 GT4 / 2013-E92 M3 / 1988-E30 M3 / 2015-FRS - GLTC race car Last edited by prandelia; 12-16-2024 at 01:01 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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^^ you got all those cars in your sig? Damn bro!
![]() I always thought a smaller/less stiff sway bar in the rear was better for rear grip. I actually opted for the bigger sway in the front and stock in the rear. Interesting reasoning for a stiffer rear setup.
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#15 (permalink) |
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My TTX showed up, so my Ohlins R&T kit will be up for sale soon.
Sorry, I actually have the Eibach rear bar, as it's a bit bigger than the Hotchkis. Have Hotchkis up front though. Car handles really nicely. I'll posted up another thread for my Ohlins R&T for sale. They are mint, and a great shock. I didn't really have any reason to upgrade to be honest. Tested the new Giken LSD rebuild, and it works great now. So the car should be even more fun once I get these installed and properly sorted!
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2014-Nismo 370Z / 2025-992 GT3RS / 2024-C8 Z07 / 2018-991.2 GT3 / 2011-997.2 GT3RS / 2016-981 GT4 / 2013-E92 M3 / 1988-E30 M3 / 2015-FRS - GLTC race car |
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