Who's making the move to STU?

///maestro · 04-12-2019, 04:23 PM

GAH! Went to go install my RRP from CJM and found that he sent me the wrong fittings (two female ends). I was supposed to finish the install last night, get my alignment today after work, and race tomorrow. Now I have to skip my race event

So bummed, so pissed. Spent several months prepping for this event and now I have to wait until end of may for the next one.

not to mention im out $175 due to CJM sending me the wrong sh!t!

Hotrodz · 04-12-2019, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///maestro

GAH! Went to go install my RRP from CJM and found that he sent me the wrong fittings (two female ends). I was supposed to finish the install last night, get my alignment today after work, and race tomorrow. Now I have to skip my race event

So bummed, so pissed. Spent several months prepping for this event and now I have to wait until end of may for the next one.

not to mention im out $175 due to CJM sending me the wrong sh!t!

Sorry man, have asked the organization if they will use your payment for the next event. It worth a try. I have done that with my NASA organization.

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Rusty · 04-12-2019, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///maestro

GAH! Went to go install my RRP from CJM and found that he sent me the wrong fittings (two female ends). I was supposed to finish the install last night, get my alignment today after work, and race tomorrow. Now I have to skip my race event

So bummed, so pissed. Spent several months prepping for this event and now I have to wait until end of may for the next one.

not to mention im out $175 due to CJM sending me the wrong sh!t!

Major bummer!

Brendan · 04-22-2019, 08:36 AM

Photos from the first autocross with this years setup. The car felt great. I am happy I decided to put the big Hotchkiss bar back on. With my relatively soft springs it was about perfect. I still need to have the car corner balanced as transitions felt best when I had a bit of ballast with a passenger. The biggest issue I had at this event was clipping cones with the inside rear tire. I never heard them so my guess is I am getting right on top of them and running over the base. I need to get used to how much faster the car turns in now.

Solo42019 319 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr

Solo42019 175 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr

Solo42019 026 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr

Solo42019 172 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr

Zewerr · 04-30-2019, 10:04 PM

I finally got my coilovers, but they haven't been installed, yet. And a new diff is currently on it's way. So, my suspension is still bone stock except for the wheels/tires. I'm consistently finishing midpack with this setup in the open PAX classes around here, the biggest drawback, right now being my VLSD. But, you can definitely see the potential of the car once it's done. I've been playing around with camera mounts that mount to the rear strut bar, but am having trouble with stability, as you can see from Sunday's video.

I would love to take the car to nats this year to defend my STU title, but I have tickets to a concert on that Thursday. I may have to do a fly and drive in a Tue/Wed class, instead.

///maestro · 05-01-2019, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zewerr

I finally got my coilovers, but they haven't been installed, yet. And a new diff is currently on it's way. So, my suspension is still bone stock except for the wheels/tires. I'm consistently finishing midpack with this setup in the open PAX classes around here, the biggest drawback, right now being my VLSD. But, you can definitely see the potential of the car once it's done. I've been playing around with camera mounts that mount to the rear strut bar, but am having trouble with stability, as you can see from Sunday's video.

I would love to take the car to nats this year to defend my STU title, but I have tickets to a concert on that Thursday. I may have to do a fly and drive in a Tue/Wed class, instead.

I'd say the right suspension setup would make more of a difference than the VLSD. From what I've read, the VLSD isn't "terrible" until it starts going, then eventually only 1 wheels spins at all times.

I Just ran my car for the first time at Gingerman raceway. WOW! Love the way I have the car configured so far. Word of wisdom, don't use EBC Red Stuff for track use!! I made a huge mistake and they started glazing (melting) causing my car to shake. Car handled very well and after months of building, adjusting, tweaking...I think the car performed very well. The whiteline swaybar I added paired with my coilovers worked very well. I do need to stiffen my front coilovers a bit as I was rubbing in hard cornering. I think I will get an OS Giken diff next season (over winter) along with some racing bucket seats and a roll cage.

As for my pad issue, I spoke to a few people, I'll be making the switch over to G-LOC pads.

ALSO! I learned that my buddy went through TWO sets of z1 2-piece rotors in a matter of a year due to hairline cracking. Keep this in mind when purchasing new rotors, I'd steer clear of z1 2piece!

Rusty · 05-01-2019, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///maestro

I'd say the right suspension setup would make more of a difference than the VLSD. From what I've read, the VLSD isn't "terrible" until it starts going, then eventually only 1 wheels spins at all times.

I Just ran my car for the first time at Gingerman raceway. WOW! Love the way I have the car configured so far. Word of wisdom, don't use EBC Red Stuff for track use!! I made a huge mistake and they started glazing (melting) causing my car to shake. Car handled very well and after months of building, adjusting, tweaking...I think the car performed very well. The whiteline swaybar I added paired with my coilovers worked very well. I do need to stiffen my front coilovers a bit as I was rubbing in hard cornering. I think I will get an OS Giken diff next season (over winter) along with some racing bucket seats and a roll cage.

As for my pad issue, I spoke to a few people, I'll be making the switch over to G-LOC pads.

ALSO! I learned that my buddy went through TWO sets of z1 2-piece rotors in a matter of a year due to hairline cracking. Keep this in mind when purchasing new rotors, I'd steer clear of z1 2piece!

Once the stock VLSD gets hot. It's done for until it cools down. Repeated high temps will cook the silicone fluid inside of it. Mine would go open after about 10 minutes of track use.

If you get the OS Giken diff. only use the OS Giken gear lube for it unless you like noise and strange behavior.

Rusty · 05-01-2019, 10:25 PM

I have the RacingBrake 2 peice rotors. They are $$ but are worth it so far. On the 3rd set of pads and the rotors have never been cut or trued.

Zewerr · 05-02-2019, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///maestro

I'd say the right suspension setup would make more of a difference than the VLSD. From what I've read, the VLSD isn't "terrible" until it starts going, then eventually only 1 wheels spins at all times.

ALSO! I learned that my buddy went through TWO sets of z1 2-piece rotors in a matter of a year due to hairline cracking. Keep this in mind when purchasing new rotors, I'd steer clear of z1 2piece!

Even though my car only has 33k miles, my VLSD is likely 100% toast. If feels like a wide open diff on all my runs, even on really cold days.

I'm currently on Z1 two piece, as well, drilled+slotted. If I end up with issues with the drilled, I'll probably just swap to slotted or sprinkled, only.

///maestro · 05-10-2019, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zewerr

Even though my car only has 33k miles, my VLSD is likely 100% toast. If feels like a wide open diff on all my runs, even on really cold days.

I'm currently on Z1 two piece, as well, drilled+slotted. If I end up with issues with the drilled, I'll probably just swap to slotted or sprinkled, only.

My buddy, Austin Hertel, went through two sets of z1 2-piece rotors in a matter of a few months (like 3 track days). Both cracked in the exact same spot. Z1 refused to replace the second set. He literally used up .011mm of the rotor when it cracked. I’d steer clear of z1 2-piece rotors if you track your car. Z1s “excuse” is that he used them in very cold temperatures lol.....

gomer_110 · 05-01-2019, 05:42 PM

The Z1 2-pc rotors have been just fine on my autox car. Perhaps the heavier use on a road course is the real problem.

Hotrodz · 05-01-2019, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomer_110

The Z1 2-pc rotors have been just fine on my autox car. Perhaps the heavier use on a road course is the real problem.

I have not had any issue with the Z1 2 piece rotors as well. I think some people mistake the checkering on the rotor face to be cracking. The the simple test is to run your fingernail across the rotor face and if it doesn't catch in a groove then it is not cracked.

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gomer_110 · 05-01-2019, 07:28 PM

For the record, mine are the slotted only rotors. I've heard too many stories regarding cracking from cross drilled rotors.

Hotrodz · 05-01-2019, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomer_110

For the record, mine are the slotted only rotors. I've heard too many stories regarding cracking from cross drilled rotors.

Mine are slotted as well for the same reason.

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Brendan · 05-01-2019, 09:13 PM

Road course is a different animal. Z1 also makes blank replacements if you buy the rotors front and rear separate. For some reason the full kit only comes slotted, drilled or both

04-12-2019, 04:23 PM	#1 (permalink)
///maestro Track Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Grand Rapids, MI Posts: 530 Drives: 11' 370z\|09' BMW M3 Rep Power: 13	GAH! Went to go install my RRP from CJM and found that he sent me the wrong fittings (two female ends). I was supposed to finish the install last night, get my alignment today after work, and race tomorrow. Now I have to skip my race event So bummed, so pissed. Spent several months prepping for this event and now I have to wait until end of may for the next one. not to mention im out $175 due to CJM sending me the wrong sh!t! __________________ Gallo24 swapped 370z Instagram: @z34_motorsport

04-22-2019, 08:36 AM	#4 (permalink)
Brendan Track Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Colorado Posts: 646 Drives: Poor man's Porsche Rep Power: 544	Photos from the first autocross with this years setup. The car felt great. I am happy I decided to put the big Hotchkiss bar back on. With my relatively soft springs it was about perfect. I still need to have the car corner balanced as transitions felt best when I had a bit of ballast with a passenger. The biggest issue I had at this event was clipping cones with the inside rear tire. I never heard them so my guess is I am getting right on top of them and running over the base. I need to get used to how much faster the car turns in now. Solo42019 319 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr Solo42019 175 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr Solo42019 026 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr Solo42019 172 by Jay Bonvouloir, on Flickr Rusty and Hotrodz like this.

04-30-2019, 10:04 PM	#5 (permalink)
Zewerr Base Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 45 Drives: 11 370Z 82/182 STU Rep Power: 8	I finally got my coilovers, but they haven't been installed, yet. And a new diff is currently on it's way. So, my suspension is still bone stock except for the wheels/tires. I'm consistently finishing midpack with this setup in the open PAX classes around here, the biggest drawback, right now being my VLSD. But, you can definitely see the potential of the car once it's done. I've been playing around with camera mounts that mount to the rear strut bar, but am having trouble with stability, as you can see from Sunday's video. I would love to take the car to nats this year to defend my STU title, but I have tickets to a concert on that Thursday. I may have to do a fly and drive in a Tue/Wed class, instead. Brendan likes this.

05-01-2019, 10:25 PM	#8 (permalink)
Rusty A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 70 Posts: 35,573 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684440	I have the RacingBrake 2 peice rotors. They are $$ but are worth it so far. On the 3rd set of pads and the rotors have never been cut or trued. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

05-01-2019, 05:42 PM	#11 (permalink)
gomer_110 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Perrysburg, OH Posts: 17,992 Drives: '11 Nismo #528 GM Rep Power: 36942	The Z1 2-pc rotors have been just fine on my autox car. Perhaps the heavier use on a road course is the real problem. Rusty, Hotrodz and Brendan like this. __________________ '11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Uprev \| CSF \| Zspeed \| Z1 Motorsports \| AST \| Swift \| SPC \| SPL \| Whiteline \| Hotchkis \| Bride \| Schroth \| Robispec \| Cusco \| Nismo \| Volk \| Forgestar \| Hoosier \| RJM '17 Titan Bone Stock

05-01-2019, 07:28 PM	#13 (permalink)
gomer_110 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Perrysburg, OH Posts: 17,992 Drives: '11 Nismo #528 GM Rep Power: 36942	For the record, mine are the slotted only rotors. I've heard too many stories regarding cracking from cross drilled rotors. __________________ '11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Uprev \| CSF \| Zspeed \| Z1 Motorsports \| AST \| Swift \| SPC \| SPL \| Whiteline \| Hotchkis \| Bride \| Schroth \| Robispec \| Cusco \| Nismo \| Volk \| Forgestar \| Hoosier \| RJM '17 Titan Bone Stock

05-01-2019, 09:13 PM	#15 (permalink)
Brendan Track Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Colorado Posts: 646 Drives: Poor man's Porsche Rep Power: 544	Road course is a different animal. Z1 also makes blank replacements if you buy the rotors front and rear separate. For some reason the full kit only comes slotted, drilled or both

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