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If you're wanting to shoot at night, you'd be shooting a relatively small stop I'd think. i.e. f16ish.
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Took some pictures for Michelin before cars and coffee this past weekend... here's one:
http://jpmcgphotography.smugmug.com/...MG_2690-XL.jpg |
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Anyone have experience with the Tokina 11-18mm lens? |
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Admittedly, I did not use my kit lens to take the shot above but I very easily could have since I was way out in the sticks with effectively zero light pollution. Pic info: ISO800, f/1.8, 10 sec exposure on a crop sensor Nikon D5000. I was experimenting with how much I could get with such a short exposure, normally I'd run around f/2.8-3.5 for 20-30 seconds since the stars will be more pin-pointy after longer exposures than if the aperture is wide open, based on similar lenses I used back when I shot 35mm film, that Tokina lens should get you what you're after if it's got good glass. With an 11-18mm range, you can probably go as high as a minute at 11mm before the stars start to trail noticeably. |
I was browsing through some of my old material and found this gem. There is nothing I love more than a super shallow DOF and off camera lighting. Shot this with my 7D w/ 85mm 1.8 (super sharp lens) and speedlights at a damn near pitch black industrial park. Some of you may remember her from on here as Bri7Synyster. We're getting hitched in Cancun on Sept. 1st, can't wait! I'll have to post some shot from there, its supposed to be beautiful.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...psf7658bad.jpg |
I'd wondered what happened to her, it sucks that we're only a few hours away from each other and we've still never met.
Very nice shot though, I'm envious of your gear and mad skills. :tup: Zdayz 2014!! |
I screwed up here. I took this during a little shoot with my wife and the Z, but there was some old pervert standing 20' away leering at her the whole time, so I was trying to get some quick shots and get her done cause she was feeling uncomfortable. Anyway, I forgot that my iso was on like 1000 so the pics came out kinda gritty :(
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/u9ema8yj.jpg Zdayz 2014!! |
Yeah I know man! One of these days! Nice pic, next time snap one with the tree line exposed properly and overlay them, it'll be perfect!
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Good tip, thanks. I lightened up the trees in LR with the shadow slider but honestly I liked the darker look. I'll try that out next time though.
Zdayz 2014!! |
Huck
Nice photo above. Where is that located? Looks like a nice place to take some pictures. Also, we should try and get a cruise together in a few weeks once I am back. Just let me know. |
Thanks man, that was in Port Saint John at the park on the west end of Faye. I'm down for a cruise, I got my Z back now so I wanna drive the hell out of her lol.
Zdayz 2014!! |
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Check this out. This kid has a good eye and makes me realize that I suck.
iPhone shots that are amazing. Belleville teen's iPhone photos capturing attention |
Babysitting my friend's budgies, figured I'd let them out to play and take some candids
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Great pics Titan. But the question arises when I see these birds. Mayonnaise or mustard? :b
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Cool spot.
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yes sir. I want that so bad
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I would like to ad an 85mm to my prime collection, though. |
I love my 70-200 f/4 L... it's so light and it's unbelievably sharp. You really can't go wrong with any of the 70-200's, it just kinda depends on what you need/want.
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I do just about all my portrait work with my 85mm, and in the future I'm going to have a hard time deciding between the 135mm and the 70-200mm. The surreal look of the 135 prime attracts me to it, but the versatility and quality of the 70-200 is hard to pass up. Just gotta make more money and buy both!
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My 70-200 has been very versatile.
I guess the extra stops of the f/2.8 version are nice to have, but I rarely find myself needing to be down there except for the few times I've tried to shoot sports or nature in lower light conditions. |
135 f/2 is hands down the best lens in my case. I try to use it as much as I possibly can. The compression coupled with the f/2 bokeh is just tits for lack of a better term. It's perfect!
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The 70-200 F4 was the first L lens that I ever had. My brother gave it to me which caused me to return/sell all of the kit lenses that I had bought with my new camera.
I sold the f4 for almost the price of a new one and bought the 70-200 f2.8 IS II. It is DEFINITELY a lot heavier, but it is also incredibly sharp. I love it, but I need to use it more. |
yeah if I was going to upgrade it would definitely be the f/2.8 IS II. For now I'm happy with what I have, especially for the $200 I have in it lol
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Some pics of a happy parent and young one
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/...b506ac6f_b.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/...bed36a65_b.jpg |
Working on a beauty story for Creem today.
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Lucky...
I'm off to do an engagement shoot in about 15 minutes. While side work like this helps a little monetarily, it's so far from my photographer dream. In due time... |
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Can we discuss White Balance when shooting white/silver cars? My camera is 90% of the time on AWB, I typically like my photos to turn out on the warmer side with how I do my post work, but with that being said. White/silver cars shoot really funny when in the shade, or post golden hours.
Anyone else notice this too? I typically end up correcting the temperature then desaturating the blue/aquas |
Lol, I always forget my color card for WBing. I just leave it on auto.
Zdayz 2014!! |
Alright, so WB. This is only going to applicable to newer, higher-end-than-most-wal-mart-inventory cameras. There are very few cameras that have a real accurate auto WB. The "best" way to try and get the right WB would be to use a white card, but if you forget it or don't have one, then that wouldn't be an option. In this case, take a shot using auto WB. Check it out in the image review on the LCD screen, or monitor/PC if shooting tethered (which no one really is going to, short of professionals), to see if there is a color cast. If you don't like the color, look at the image info to see what the WB was set to by the auto system. Set your custom WB temp to a slightly cooler (lower K) if too warm, or to slightly warmer (higher K) if too cool. These K settings are opposite of what most people perceive, ala HID headlights where the higher the K, the bluer the light and vice versa. The next key step is to keep shooting and practicing WB adjustment. There is no magic camera that will take a perfect (subjective) picture right out of the box or in any auto mode for the most part. So what is critical is to learn the relationship between shutter speed, aperture, and ISO, because if these settings are askew to start, auto WB will likely be off. Anyone who has set up a professional shoot, whether it is of a car, model, product, etc, will tell you that one does not simply show up with the camera, take a shot and then done. There is most definitely a period of time allocated to achieving the desired camera setting, so don't be afraid to park the car, take a shot or 2, then sit there on the ground for 5 minutes until you get the settings your looking for. Time and experience will improve your ability to correctly judge WB settings, and trust me, it won't take as long as you think.
Or... Shoot in RAW and adjust later :) |
Also, for quick reference, direct sunlight is a temp of roughly 5600K, as are speedlights and strobes. Mornings are typically cooler, around 5000K, so a WB of 6500-7000K may be needed. Midday is usually 5600K unless cloudy, then its cooler so 6000-6500k may be needed. Sunset is usually warmer, around 6000, so you may need to use 5000-5500K to offset the warm hue.
Cameras measure the light available to it, so if your main light is the sun at sunset, it is natural for your shot to have a warm color. If you try to neutralize the warmth of the subject, its going to neutralize the warmth of everything in the image. This does not necessarily apply when lighting the subject/background yourself. I hope this all helps you guys! |
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