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Originally Posted by saber angle is a bit off on the car. if you centered it and had the car dead on, that photo would have been better. that line
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Quote:
![]() Your settings may vary depending on preferences you've set up in your menus. I have my exposure increments set up for 1/3 stop.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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![]() I've heard what you've heard as well. As with 6spd, I've found my Canon 7D and 5D MkII to underexpose a little when I set it to expose "in the middle". I know this because I constantly found myself increasing the exposure anywhere from +0.50-1.00 in Lightroom in order to get what I saw when making the shot. In my personal experiences, raising the exposure on an underexposed shot created noise, particularly in the underexposed areas... such as when you're trying to lighten up an area that shows too much shadow. Recovering "slightly" overexposed areas or hot spots by reducing the exposure or sliding the highlights adjuster down, or using dodge and burn techniques to add shadows to an area did not result in added noise. So I decided to take what "they" say with a grain of salt. I'm sure there's instances where exposing to the right can create blown-out highlights, but I'd like to think I'm smart enough to identify those situations and adjust my exposure accordingly!
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#5 (permalink) |
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*chew chew chew*
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I'm probably more interested right now in on-camera speedlites. I use an SB-700, and because right now it's more event coverage, I don't have time to set up a shoot area.
However, I am looking for an economical way to expand, and thought about an umbrella or diffuser dish. Just don't know if A) I need more speedlights (I only have my little SB-700 for now), and B) If that's really the next place I want to go with this. are there pros/cons to a circular diffuser cap vs a box?
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![]() 魂の中にある一条の光を信じて Last edited by saber; 08-21-2013 at 08:30 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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As far as diffusion goes, it really depends on your subject matter. A convention such as Comic-Con may call for a beauty dish or even just the bare flash to bring out the detail of the costumes and put a catch-light in the eyes that mimics anime. For something like a wedding, you might want something softer. A quick and easy way to use multiple speedlites is:
This setup will be fairly lightweight and portable, and the accessories will be less than the additional speedlite itself.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Portraits are subjective. You can create some great shots with single strobe or go all out with 3 or more. If you're on a tight budget, there are a few options: -Try a mini softbox for your speedlight. It's around $8-$25. My Westcott 8x12" was about $20 at B&H. I recommend investing on a TTL Remote Cord for your speedlight to really get it off the camera. The flash straight on is very unflattering in most cases. A diffusion dome still creates a hot spot if you aim straight on. You're still bouncing light, although it's a bit more, well.....diffused. -Skip speedlights and use natural lighting. You can achieve great results with an indoor portrait next to a window on a sunny day. Outdoors, a collapsible reflector and/or diffuser can get you great result. You'll just have to work on how to position them properly and may require an assistant. You can also use them indoors with your speedlight with some experimenting. The Lastolite Trigrips are my favorite, but they're a bit more expensive. Westcott makes some reasonably priced circular ones. -Rent out a studio. Look around and see if there are places near you. They usually have lighting equipment you can rent. Rentals run anywhere from $15 to $30 or more per hour, but you'll have access to professional lighting equipment. Nice to try at least once instead of investing hundreds on your own equipment.
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![]() [09][MB][6-Spd MT][Touring][Stillen Gen III][K&N][Borla CBE][Evo-R] Last edited by Cmike2780; 08-21-2013 at 09:28 AM. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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If I'm shooting a portrait, a model, etc., in a studio situation or on a well lit stage (such as at a beauty convention), always 100 so I have the least noise possible. It makes skin touch-ups and post-shot cropping easier. If I've got a moving target such as a car, plane or wildlife, I'll bump it up as high as necessary for the lighting conditions while still allowing for the shutter speed I need to capture said moving target. Sometimes I'm unable to complete the exposure triangle fast enough in my head and I'll set my ISO on auto for a couple of shots and let technology point me in the right direction.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Yeah there really are endless options for portraits.
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#11 (permalink) |
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You can buy a cheap speedlight, and use a wireless transmitter, for rim lighting and bounce it off a reflector in front of the subject. That's cheap and gives you many more varying options.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Oh right... can't believe I forgot to mention reflectors!
A collapsible reflector goes with me most places. A piece of foam board works well as a cheap, quick reflector if portability is not an issue. For the editorial shoot we worked on yesterday, we had these 4x8' crinkly foil coated insulating wall boards set up as reflectors and flags in one.
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#13 (permalink) |
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I <3 you guys. lol. Thanks!
I've always known lighting was never my forte because I never had a chance to work on it. Now I think I can, so time to get some practice in and see what I can do.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Despite cooling temps the last two weeks, this scene says there's still hope for summer in Central PA:
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#15 (permalink) |
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I like this.
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