FRS/BRZ 11.3 @ 127 stock engine

Japanjay

Just FYI, but 30 psi with a t25 is not the same as 30 PSI on a GT35R.... In all honesty argueing over PSI just shows you know very little about forced induction.... Not to be a **** but CFM is what it is about.

Here are my concerns:

1: Dude wearing a motec shirt??? Was it viscotti tuned or Motec? If it was motec then there is alot of $$$$ being invested into this, not to discredit viscotti but I have no idea who you are but I do know who Motec is. Havent looked into the Z being tuned with Motec since I am not near that yet, but at the same time havent seen anyone on here using it either. Wish they did have something for the Z and if they do you will be who I am going with.

2. What type of exhaust manifold was built? What needed to be done to make it fit? Are there other manifold options that could possible make the same power without as many modifications or better yet other options that might be more efficient?

3: What type of turbo? Makes a big difference, ie: was it at the smaller faster spooling one that was at it limits or was it a bigger one with room to grow? What is the max size turbo with that manifold going to fit in the bay?

4: Upgraded fuel pump and injectors I am assuming due to running E85? You can right off the get go without calculating the fuel inflow being almost twice as high. Kills you MPG drastically and not everyone can get their hands on E85. Not saying you cant run meth, but come on how far past voiding the warranty do you want to get???? Again same can be done in the Z and not have to push the motor as hard to get the same numbers.....

5: I know that isnt the stock clutch....

6: What are they considering just bolt ons???

The way I look at it, it is going to be at least 2-3 years before buying a FRS/BRZ is going to be worth while for the fun factor and even then modding it, it is going to put you in the price range of a low milage used Z with the same numbers.

I mean you can take the stock B18b in my integra in the garage and get 300whp without any internals and with a spot on tune drive for a long time and not have any issues? From 300whp to 350ish all you need is ARP head studs. Over the 350ish wall you need to start looking at forged pistons and rods. Getting into the 450whp area and above you need to look at sleeving....

Still though, I could drop around $8k at speedfactory down street and get a street stalker that will pretty much blow the doors off anything. I mean those guys just clipped IIRC a 8.33 or something close....Mind you it took alot more than $8k to get that, but, one of my employees has a type-r that she bought from someone that was built by them that was putting down ~430whp and was in the low 11's with an inexperienced driver, her BF, not that he is a bad driver, but he not a true race car driver in the purest form...

I didnt buy the Z hell bent on being the fastest in town and I think most can agree. The people that buy the new z's bought them because they are already more than adaquate for around town, look damn good doing it too, and can more than hold their own against more exspensive and higher WHP cars. The heritage is another big one.

If I bought the FRS it would be a couple years old and come into it knowing it is a slow turd that looks semi fast and is going to need some serious work to make it even live up to its looks. But as we all know once you start doing some serious building, like what this FRS/BRZ has done to it, its reliabilty starts to greatly deminish....

In human years this car is still sucking on it moms teats. Let it make it even 20k miles in my hands and I would be semi impressed.... There is still so much to be discovered about this car, THAT is what is keeping all of us watching for several years to come.... Only time will bring these cars fate.