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Who has the highest mileage 7AT? Issues with the tranny?

Originally Posted by ssmoked How did you change the fluids? DIY next time please? From what I understood from the dealer, the automatic transmission is a closed unit... I didn't.

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Old 08-30-2014, 05:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ssmoked View Post
How did you change the fluids? DIY next time please? From what I understood from the dealer, the automatic transmission is a closed unit...
I didn't. I had the motor dropped, changed the radiator, then the trans line popped off, and I'm going to change the radiator again, lol.

Every time I talk to a factory mechanic, they tell me the same thing. We fill and drain it. No one follows the manual, it takes too long.


The service manual has that info and an IR thermometer is all you need
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Old 08-31-2014, 02:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a 2011 with ~57K miles currently.

Transmission was replaced at ~33K miles. Symptoms were the car would stall out when put into gear (both reverse and drive). Was just like the torque converter was locked up. The transmission would still shift into gear.

Torque converter replaced at ~50K miles. Same symptoms as before. When the transmission was replaced, apparently the original torque converter was used.

Should add that both times, the valve body was replaced first to see if that would fix it, before they replaced the transmission and torque converter.

Haven't done any maintenance on transmission and don't plan on it.

I do drive it like a sports car, but have never been to a track.
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Old 08-31-2014, 02:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I have a 2011 with ~57K miles currently.

Transmission was replaced at ~33K miles. Symptoms were the car would stall out when put into gear (both reverse and drive). Was just like the torque converter was locked up. The transmission would still shift into gear.

Torque converter replaced at ~50K miles. Same symptoms as before. When the transmission was replaced, apparently the original torque converter was used.

Should add that both times, the valve body was replaced first to see if that would fix it, before they replaced the transmission and torque converter.

Haven't done any maintenance on transmission and don't plan on it.

I do drive it like a sports car, but have never been to a track.
Man that's a lot...
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Land Cruiser View Post
I have a 2011 with ~57K miles currently.

Transmission was replaced at ~33K miles. Symptoms were the car would stall out when put into gear (both reverse and drive). Was just like the torque converter was locked up. The transmission would still shift into gear.

Torque converter replaced at ~50K miles. Same symptoms as before. When the transmission was replaced, apparently the original torque converter was used.

Should add that both times, the valve body was replaced first to see if that would fix it, before they replaced the transmission and torque converter.

Haven't done any maintenance on transmission and don't plan on it.

I do drive it like a sports car, but have never been to a track.
Question to you. Occassionally I have noticed when I go into reverse ( twice so far ) the car seems to shake a little for a second or two almost like a manual wanting to stall but it doesnt it. Did you have this ?
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Old 09-01-2014, 11:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Question to you. Occassionally I have noticed when I go into reverse ( twice so far ) the car seems to shake a little for a second or two almost like a manual wanting to stall but it doesnt it. Did you have this ?
No. I never got this. Both times there weren't any symptoms that I can tell, until it just died on the road.

I have something similar to what your talking about though. About 1 out of 20 times when coming to a complete stop at a traffic light, it would do it. RPM would drop like it would stall out, car shakes a little, but it would correct itself. I've read about it a bit and cleaning the throttle body is supposed to fix it. There is a Tech Bulletin out on this. I've cleaned the driver's side one, (just too lazy to do the other side for now) and it didn't seem all that dirty to me. I might clean the other side today.

What I do have when going into reverse (or into drive from reverse, or just letting off the gas) is a "clink" sound. Can't hear it with windows up, but for sure can hear it with it down and having something near by to bounce the sound back to you. There is a Tech Bulletin for this also. Supposedly the axle nut has worked its way loose and needs to be re-torqued. A cotter pin is keeping it from coming all the way loose.
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Old 09-01-2014, 01:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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No. I never got this. Both times there weren't any symptoms that I can tell, until it just died on the road.

I have something similar to what your talking about though. About 1 out of 20 times when coming to a complete stop at a traffic light, it would do it. RPM would drop like it would stall out, car shakes a little, but it would correct itself. I've read about it a bit and cleaning the throttle body is supposed to fix it. There is a Tech Bulletin out on this. I've cleaned the driver's side one, (just too lazy to do the other side for now) and it didn't seem all that dirty to me. I might clean the other side today.

What I do have when going into reverse (or into drive from reverse, or just letting off the gas) is a "clink" sound. Can't hear it with windows up, but for sure can hear it with it down and having something near by to bounce the sound back to you. There is a Tech Bulletin for this also. Supposedly the axle nut has worked its way loose and needs to be re-torqued. A cotter pin is keeping it from coming all the way loose.

Thanks for the response, I am not really worried. Will worry though if it stalls. Only occured twice, just a little shakey for a second or two. I am not that familiar with Auto boxes hence the question, I do know however that they are not supposed to stall
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