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Battery died while garaged

^^This is also the cheaper route costs you zero$$$ for electricity

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Old 02-15-2014, 09:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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^^This is also the cheaper route costs you zero$$$ for electricity
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You want to do two things after you charge the battery. Check your voltmeter with the car running and check that it's reading ~14.5V. Then, go get a load test done on your battery. If this checks out ok, you have a current drain that needs correcting. Your battery shouldn't die after sitting for two months.
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Old 02-16-2014, 06:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You want to do two things after you charge the battery. Check your voltmeter with the car running and check that it's reading ~14.5V. Then, go get a load test done on your battery. If this checks out ok, you have a current drain that needs correcting. Your battery shouldn't die after sitting for two months.
even 4-6months you should only have minimal loss…..
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, I'll have the battery tested after I get it charged back up. The battery is not dead, just weak. The issue seems like the car is only trying to turn over once when I press the start button. I feel like if it had a key to turn, it would eventually turn over...maybe not, but just what it seems like. Anyway, it's still to earlier in the season to get it out of the garage so I may just pull the battery and charge it in my apt.
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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however disconnecting it is all that is needed I don't even take the battery out of the vehicle. end of season easy one step deal disconnect it and your done.

then there is only 3 steps for restart
- connect battery & start the car let it idle then while idling to warm up etc
- reset auto windows
- set clock and wait for temps to rise so you can go rip it!
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LMBmikeZ View Post


however disconnecting it is all that is needed I don't even take the battery out of the vehicle. end of season easy one step deal disconnect it and your done.

then there is only 3 steps for restart
- connect battery & start the car let it idle then while idling to warm up etc
- reset auto windows
- set clock and wait for temps to rise so you can go rip it!
And I would do it that way if the money was more important to me than the inconvenience...
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Extended Storage Switch

Is anyone using the extended storage switch in the fuse block? Nissan expects the car to be stored winters in colder climates and knows that it has a parasitic drain during extended storage and provided an extended storage switch to reduce the drain. You just pull out the switch and it cuts power to a few electronic control modules to reduce the current drain. It is actually just a fuse with a plastic case around it with locking tabs on the side. It's on pages 8-24 & 8-25 of my 2012 owners manual.
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Is anyone using the extended storage switch in the fuse block? Nissan expects the car to be stored winters in colder climates and knows that it has a parasitic drain during extended storage and provided an extended storage switch to reduce the drain. You just pull out the switch and it cuts power to a few electronic control modules to reduce the current drain. It is actually just a fuse with a plastic case around it with locking tabs on the side. It's on pages 8-24 & 8-25 of my 2012 owners manual.
Really?! Lol!
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Old 02-16-2014, 10:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Verda7junior View Post
Is anyone using the extended storage switch in the fuse block? Nissan expects the car to be stored winters in colder climates and knows that it has a parasitic drain during extended storage and provided an extended storage switch to reduce the drain. You just pull out the switch and it cuts power to a few electronic control modules to reduce the current drain. It is actually just a fuse with a plastic case around it with locking tabs on the side. It's on pages 8-24 & 8-25 of my 2012 owners manual.
Sweet!

I am going to take a look in my manual
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Verda7junior View Post
Is anyone using the extended storage switch in the fuse block? Nissan expects the car to be stored winters in colder climates and knows that it has a parasitic drain during extended storage and provided an extended storage switch to reduce the drain. You just pull out the switch and it cuts power to a few electronic control modules to reduce the current drain. It is actually just a fuse with a plastic case around it with locking tabs on the side. It's on pages 8-24 & 8-25 of my 2012 owners manual.
The problem with doing this is that you basically have to reset everything in the car. All of your personal settings (homelink, menus, phone book, temp settings, etc.) are on it. Ask those who took delivery of their car with it pulled. Every time you start the car it goes back to default settings.

Now, I don't know if you pulled it after you shut the car off and then engaged it before you started it if that would save all the settings or not, but I'd hate to try only find out that it didn't.
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The problem with doing this is that you basically have to reset everything in the car. All of your personal settings (homelink, menus, phone book, temp settings, etc.) are on it. Ask those who took delivery of their car with it pulled. Every time you start the car it goes back to default settings.

Now, I don't know if you pulled it after you shut the car off and then engaged it before you started it if that would save all the settings or not, but I'd hate to try only find out that it didn't.
guess battery is best bet, all those settings are untouched and will work perfectly fine upon restart
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:16 AM   #12 (permalink)
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It is funny how often we see these threads though, these and "oil threads"

come on people it's easy, don't be scared it's only pu$$y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTqWkyNKkxU
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Old 02-16-2014, 10:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I just start my car once every 4 weeks. The car is been stored in my garage since December.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I just start my car once every 4 weeks. The car is been stored in my garage since December.
It would be wise to make sure it gets up to operating temp, with oil temps hot enough to boil away any water that has accumulated. Otherwise, all you're doing by starting it is contributing to the generation of more condensation and you're doing far more harm than good.
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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It would be wise to make sure it gets up to operating temp, with oil temps hot enough to boil away any water that has accumulated. Otherwise, all you're doing by starting it is contributing to the generation of more condensation and you're doing far more harm than good.
this^^ plus if you don't reach proper temps your exhaust will not dry out leaving moisture within it causing it to corrode even quicker
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