horrible snow day bad experience !!!

m4a1mustang

To those that have space to keep a spare set of wheels/tires around, I highly suggest a dedicated set of winter tires and a dedicated set of summer tires.

All-seasons are "no-seasons." A jack of all trades but master of none.

Snow tires really aren't just for snow. "Performance Winter/Snow" tires will give you maximum cold weather, dry pavement grip relative to a summer or all-season tire, while providing significantly better snow/ice performance.

The best thing about having a summer/winter setup is not having to compromise. You don't have to give up summer grip so you can have marginal winter grip. Instead, you get maximum summer grip and maximum winter grip. Have your cake and eat it too.

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- Steve

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CDepp

Preferred method.

I hate to disagree, but I'm not sure how you calculated that. I've put a lot more in much less of a vehicle. You're talking top speed of 20mph (at most) in conditions where you'd have to apply this to keep from losing grip on inclines. And, unless you're hopping curbs every 100 ft, the chassis will do just fine with 600lbs distributed at 420 in the rear and 180 in the passenger seat flooring. (400lb/in. compression on rear stock springs, less on sport springs - offset by any drop). Stock, I have 1.25" clearance in the rear, with no spacers, meaning I can drop the entire 600lbs in the back without any damage (tucking rubber though). And, because the conditions are that bad, there's no way the car would be going fast enough to necessitate reflex speed of the springs to avoid a shock crush point.

EDIT: However, with the risk to damage (as m4a1 points out), especially for a mod'ed Z, it would be better if you just used another vehicle, public transpo, or get a rental ($10/day + gas in some areas).

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-CDepp-
2011 MB Base+S M6 | Invidia Exhaust | TommyKairaHebiBeibi | H&R Spacers 15/20 | GTR Start | 305hp/240tq

Augustus

Perhaps m4a1mustang is going by the GVWR tag on the driver's door. On my '11, it states that the maximum passenger + cargo load is 432 lbs.

So, 600lbs in the trunk + driver + fuel = a seriously overloaded Z, according to Nissan. No doubt that much weight helps traction. I offer no opinion as to how that affects one's car, but you are almost doubling the "official" capacity with a ~780lb load of concrete and driver.

CDepp

I don't disagree at all with the Nissan recommended use. As I always try to remind people, 'don't always use the advice in forums' for their own application. I don't believe I would EVER drop 600lbs in my car either. Putting in 4-6 bags is just a really heavy passenger (unless you can find a really big friend to ride with you). I actually agree with m4a1 on the 'potential' to ruin a Z. I just see it happening driving in the conditions and the actual ratings of the stock suspension in the Z. If you slide into a curb, even at a safe speed -10mph) with all that weight, however, that would be a blown axle for certain.

The idea is to get weight towards the rear of the car and to increase the pressure per inch of contact. Even 240lbs is better than none. It's the same reason trucks have cinder blocks/bags of sand/concrete in their beds in the winter.

__________________
-CDepp-
2011 MB Base+S M6 | Invidia Exhaust | TommyKairaHebiBeibi | H&R Spacers 15/20 | GTR Start | 305hp/240tq