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I just checked the Google for myself. It seems like a tough question to answer, due to variability in additive types, the gas you start with, and the methods of
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#1 (permalink) |
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I just checked the Google for myself. It seems like a tough question to answer, due to variability in additive types, the gas you start with, and the methods of test. Next time, I'll wait until I hear the detonation and then add it in order to determine if it is working.
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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You have to remember that the dealership put regular gas in your car when you bought it. I doubt that regular gas will mess up the car. Now if you have a turbo charger or supercharger, then that is a different story & you better go premium. Getting the middle grade is a joke & a waste of money. The reason is that you really have no idea if it is 1% better than regular, or a couple % lower that premium. Everytime you change your oil drop in an octane booster when you fill up your car.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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The car is tuned from Nissan to require 91 AKI, and unless you never put it under load, it's a bad idea to run a lower than recommended octane. Octane boosters, at best, may add .5 AKI. I don't know of any cars tuned to take advantage of midgrade. Might be worthwhile on an older motor tuned for regular that's prone to ping for one reason or another (e.g., carbon deposits on pistons creating hot spots). What does changing the oil have to do with anything?
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Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 04-17-2012 at 08:05 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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There is absolutely no logical reason for that. There is no direct relationship between the oil and the octane requirements for the motor.
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Enjoy it. Destroy it. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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The higher the octane the slower it burns & the lower the octane the faster it burns. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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You're better off demanding to accompany them on the journey to the gas pump if you are that worried. Or tell them not to bother filling it up -- you'll do that. Failing that, if you are that concerned, drive around at fairly low revs, putting very little load on the engine (less load means less torque produced, means less likely to autoignite -- although it is certainly possible to knock even at idle), get through a 1/4 or 1/2 tank of gas and then top off with high test. Or break out the siphon hose and start sucking ![]() The message I'm getting from people on here is that they don't trust car dealers as far as they can throw them (fair enough) but they DO trust snake oil salesmen selling unregulated, mystery fuel additives (why?).
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Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 04-20-2012 at 12:40 AM. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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I was just ranting about the dealers filling up with regular so others would know and figured since you questioned the dealers method was a good post to quote....but if I ever do buy a new car I might demand premium if not a gas card lol As far as the difference a booster makes I am not questioning other than if I know regular was used I hope it helps, recently got my Z shipped and the shipping company put over 100 unexplained miles on the car and I filled it up and added a booster... good news is car drives great |
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#11 (permalink) |
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+1....... I will agree that the SOB will put regular gas in the tanks instead of premium. What is this "snake oil salesmen selling unregulated, mystery fuel additives?" I have never heard this before & could someone please elaborate on this for me.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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That said, I wouldn't count on them to do anything especially good OR bad (other than drain your wallet a bit). Seriously, if anyone here buys their new Z and thinks the dealer topped it off with regular, the best thing you can do is drive around gently (i.e., no flooring it, no redlining it -- not a great idea if breaking in a new engine anyway...), burn through 1/4 to 1/2 a tank, and then top off with high octane. Hell, if you can find it, some Sunocos have 100 AKI at the pump. Half a tank of that plus regular will get you where you need to be (although I believe fuel blending winds up being not quite that simple in terms of effective octane...). That's a much better way to go than adding a couple bottle of octane booster, crossing your fingers, and driving however you would normally. Oh, and lookie what I found... http://www.fueltechexperts.com/2008/...which-is-best/ Remarkably, a few of them added a point or two of RON (although, keep in mind that AKI is the average of RON+MON... actually, a good rule of thumb on RON to AKI conversions is RON*.95=~AKI value -- example, our car requires 96 RON or 91 AKI, 96*.95 = 91.2), most added less than a point. Still not going to be very helpful on a tank of 87. Siphon or gently use up, top off with high test. Done.
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Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 04-20-2012 at 01:07 AM. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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