What did you do with your Z today III

m4a1mustang · 04-14-2012, 09:56 PM

I'd actually suggest starting the Konis at full soft and working from there. They really aren't soft at full soft, but they get pretty darn stiff when you crank them up. IMO it's easier to start there and figure out how much stiffer (if any) you want it instead of thinking about whether you should crank it down or crank it up.

That's just me, though.

onzedge · 04-14-2012, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang

I'd actually suggest starting the Konis at full soft and working from there. They really aren't soft at full soft, but they get pretty darn stiff when you crank them up. IMO it's easier to start there and figure out how much stiffer (if any) you want it instead of thinking about whether you should crank it down or crank it up.

That's just me, though.

I started in the middle in rear and a bit stiffer in the front and they are STIFF at this setting. I had to dial them back.

m4a1mustang · 04-14-2012, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onzedge

I started in the middle in rear and a bit stiffer in the front and they are STIFF at this setting. I had to dial them back.

I run 1.5 turns up front and 1 turn in the rear. The absolute MOST I will run on the street is 2 up front and 1.5 out back. More is just too stiff unless I'm on perfectly smooth roads.

On a long trip I'll crank them down and run at full soft for comfort. Even at full soft the Konis will perform better than stock.

Alchemy · 04-14-2012, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang

I run 1.5 turns up front and 1 turn in the rear. The absolute MOST I will run on the street is 2 up front and 1.5 out back. More is just too stiff unless I'm on perfectly smooth roads.

On a long trip I'll crank them down and run at full soft for comfort. Even at full soft the Konis will perform better than stock.

I believe this is about where im at. Im at about 1 1\4 turn up front and actually about the same on the rear. Itll take some dialing in but adjustment is easy! Now I just gotta get these brakes bled properly.

m4a1mustang · 04-14-2012, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alchemy

I believe this is about where im at. Im at about 1 1\4 turn up front and actually about tge same on the rear.

I still think it's a good idea to start out at full soft and work your way up instead of guessing a starting point, then trying to figure out if you want to go up or down.

Plus, you get the "wow, even at full soft these dampers are 10x better than stock" effect.

alcheng · 04-14-2012, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fire

Alcheng isn't that pic from Moto in Ontario??

I look up Moto's album and that's actually an Italian flag.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

Raccoon assassins hired by Moose, paid with poutine. This is more common in Canada than one would think.

Another kind of stone-age like cheap labor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by onzedge

I got distracted at Pardee's Camera today and ended up leaving with this:

Canon U.S.A. : Professional Imaging Products : EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM

I have a 17-35/f2.8, it works very good with the film camera, but I find after the 1.5x with the DSLR, it is not quite wide enough.

Mr.onzedge, looking forward to hear reviews from you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by onzedge

The lens I got today completes my objectives when I went digital. My EF stable is now:

24-70, 2.8
16-35, 2.8
70-200, 2.8

100-400 -- this is here only beacause I got an incredible deal. It is a highly impractical lens as it is very heavy and hard to hold steady over time w/o a monopod.

I have the Tokina 11-16/f2.8, not an expensive lens but the wide angle range is the only on the market, a bit noisy cos it doesn't have motor.

Maybe add it on your next "distracted list"???

onzedge · 04-14-2012, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alcheng

I look up Moto's album and that's actually an Italian flag.

Another kind of stone-age like cheap labor.

I have a 17-35/f2.8, it works very good with the film camera, but I find after the 1.5x with the DSLR, it is not quite wide enough.

Mr.onzedge, looking forward to hear reviews from you.

I have the Tokina 11-16/f2.8, not an expensive lens but the wide angle range is the only on the market, a bit noisy cos it doesn't have motor.

Maybe add it on your next "distracted list"???

Maybe I'll check it out. I am kind of a Canon-only guy, but who knows.

I will rep you when my repping is restored tomorrow.

Alchemy · 04-14-2012, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang

I still think it's a good idea to start out at full soft and work your way up instead of guessing a starting point, then trying to figure out if you want to go up or down.

Plus, you get the "wow, even at full soft these dampers are 10x better than stock" effect.

Maybe Ill do this when I go to bleed them again tomorrow

pedZ · 04-14-2012, 11:15 PM

Awesome pic alcheng.

04-14-2012, 09:56 PM	#1 (permalink)
m4a1mustang A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern VA Posts: 55,385 Drives: on two wheels Rep Power: 6964	I'd actually suggest starting the Konis at full soft and working from there. They really aren't soft at full soft, but they get pretty darn stiff when you crank them up. IMO it's easier to start there and figure out how much stiffer (if any) you want it instead of thinking about whether you should crank it down or crank it up. That's just me, though. __________________ - Steve Zs & Coffee - Saturdays at 10AM in Fairfax, VA and Columbia, MD (Click the banner!) LIKE us on Facebook!

04-14-2012, 11:15 PM	#9 (permalink)
pedZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,366 Drives: 11 Tour/Spt/Nav/6MT Rep Power: 29	Awesome pic alcheng. __________________ 2011 Brilliant Silver Touring/Sport/Nav/6MT --- Build Journal F.I. SS 18" CBE \| Takeda CAI \| Z1 25-Row Oil Cooler \| Swift Springs \| Hotchkis Sway Bars \| H&R 15mm DRS Spacers F&R \| RJM Clutch Pedal \| UpRev Tune

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