Those of you who have had Steering Lock Failure

Baer383 · 12-26-2012, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yakz

Steering wheel lock just failed at 36,000 on the dot in a grocery store parking lot.

Got a rental car, drove home, called the dealership. Told me $280 for the cutaway bolts and $730 for the steering wheel lock.

Read some threads on here, grabbed a hammer, went back to the grocery.

Smacked the part with the hammer a few times and it unlocked (note: kicking it didn't work, and I had to give it a pretty good smack with the hammer). Popped the hood, pulled the plastic **** off, yanked the fuse box and pulled the fuse. Put everything back together, shut it off, started back up just fine (whirrr of the lock working notably absent).

Taking the rental car back tomorrow annoyed but without the expensive tow and repair thanks the forum.

I'm glad I could help you save money

6MT · 12-18-2012, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

I pulled the fuse for Pintsize tonight

axeman71 · 12-19-2012, 08:57 AM

2010 Roadster 7AT touring. Mine just failed at 35500 miles. I was out of town visiting friends and got stuck an extra day. Luckily I had 500 miles left on my warranty.

Mt Tam I am · 12-19-2012, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by axeman71

2010 Roadster 7AT touring. Mine just failed at 35500 miles. I was out of town visiting friends and got stuck an extra day. Luckily I had 500 miles left on my warranty.

Very cool.

gginaz · 12-21-2012, 03:03 AM

mine too failed 39,XXXmi 09 lucked out so to speak though dealership replaced for $536 after having car towed and being there for a week

JohnsZ · 12-21-2012, 11:18 AM

Yesterday I went to start my '09 with 22k and got the dreaded...NO START for the first time. After getting out of the car and getting back in, I tried it again and it started. Question, how long before I won't be able to start it at all, i.e can it wait until my next oil change in about a month or so to get it fixed or should I bring it in asap? Also...is the part covered under warranty? Thanks!

scgolfer7 · 12-21-2012, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnsZ

Yesterday I went to start my '09 with 22k and got the dreaded...NO START for the first time. After getting out of the car and getting back in, I tried it again and it started. Question, how long before I won't be able to start it at all, i.e can it wait until my next oil change in about a month or so to get it fixed or should I bring it in asap? Also...is the part covered under warranty? Thanks!

Honestly, I would go ahead and pull the fuse for the time being so you aren't stuck stranded; it can go out about anytime from what I have heard. Then simply plug the fuse back in when you take it to the dealer. With that being said, I have heard mixed reports of whether it is covered or not.

My 09 is a little higher mileage (because I drive it everyday) so I just had to be happy with the pulled fuse trick.

JohnsZ · 12-21-2012, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scgolfer7

Honestly, I would go ahead and pull the fuse for the time being so you aren't stuck stranded; it can go out about anytime from what I have heard. Then simply plug the fuse back in when you take it to the dealer. With that being said, I have heard mixed reports of whether it is covered or not.

My 09 is a little higher mileage (because I drive it everyday) so I just had to be happy with the pulled fuse trick.

Thanks scgolfer7....Mine too is a DD where I put on about 100 miles per day, m-f. I bought mine with 10k last June and already have 22k. Stupid question from someone who is not comfortable playing around with fuses.....what is the process of locating/pulling the fuse or is it just wise to bring it in to Nissan dealership soon? BTW....golf lover here

sboden · 12-22-2012, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnsZ

Thanks scgolfer7....Mine too is a DD where I put on about 100 miles per day, m-f. I bought mine with 10k last June and already have 22k. Stupid question from someone who is not comfortable playing around with fuses.....what is the process of locating/pulling the fuse or is it just wise to bring it in to Nissan dealership soon? BTW....golf lover here

If you don't feel comfortable pulling the fuse, buy the harness asap. As a daily driver, your odds are even better to get stuck.

SouthArk370Z · 12-22-2012, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnsZ

Thanks scgolfer7....Mine too is a DD where I put on about 100 miles per day, m-f. I bought mine with 10k last June and already have 22k. Stupid question from someone who is not comfortable playing around with fuses.....what is the process of locating/pulling the fuse or is it just wise to bring it in to Nissan dealership soon? BTW....golf lover here

It's a fairly easy job, but if you are uncomfortable doing it, either installing the harness (even a rank amateur can do it; the only "hard" part is unplugging the connector from the SLU) or getting someone to pull the fuse (doesn't have to be a dealer; anyone with a little car experience can do it) are both good options.
As sboden points out, you're chances of SLU failure are pretty high, so do one of the fixes ASAP.

scgolfer7 · 12-26-2012, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnsZ

Thanks scgolfer7....Mine too is a DD where I put on about 100 miles per day, m-f. I bought mine with 10k last June and already have 22k. Stupid question from someone who is not comfortable playing around with fuses.....what is the process of locating/pulling the fuse or is it just wise to bring it in to Nissan dealership soon? BTW....golf lover here

The fuse is in the fuse box next to your battery. Nothing really difficult to get it out other than pulling a few of those black clips out to get to the fuse box, then removing the fuse. If you need anymore help I can get some pictures soon.

yakz · 12-26-2012, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scgolfer7

The fuse is in the fuse box next to your battery. Nothing really difficult to get it out other than pulling a few of those black clips out to get to the fuse box, then removing the fuse. If you need anymore help I can get some pictures soon.

Note that there are two fuse boxes next to the battery. The steering wheel lock fuse is in the larger one that is more difficult to get to, you have to pull it up to get the cover off and get to the fuses. I had to remove the battery cover, the plastic around the battery cover, and the plastic near the windshield. They just have some little snap-ins to hold them on, so not really that difficult. The fuse itself just pulls straight out.

VCuomo · 12-26-2012, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnsZ

...what is the process of locating/pulling the fuse or is it just wise to bring it in to Nissan dealership soon? BTW....golf lover here

It's easy - there's a huge thread in the DIY section on this topic. Been there for months, and it contains step-by-step instructions (even some pictures): Full thread, Instructions (quoted below)

Quote:

For those of you who haven't done this yet, here are the steps I followed (I'm not sure that they've been put in one place):

Remove the battery compartment cover (two tabs at the front end of the cover).
Remove the four clips from the perimeter of the battery compartment surround. To remove each clip, use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry up the center round "head" of the clip, then pull out the entire clip.
Remove the battery compartment surround; note the section at the front driver side that goes under the support bar.
Remove the passenger side windshield cowl's rubber hood seal just to the rear of the battery compartment - there are four clips embedded in the seal, just put your fingers around them from between the firewall and the seal and pull up
Remove the passenger side windshield cowl (two clips that are the same as the battery compartment surround). Note that there is a tab (but no clip) where the cowl goes underneath the windshield seal - pull this up slightly, then pull the cowl out.
The fuse box will now be fully visible and accessible. There are two tabs at the top of the fuse box that go into the steel frame that the box is sitting in. Simultaneously push the two tabs towards the driver side of the car, and then pull the fuse box up and out.
There are two tabs on the bottom of the fuse box (where the harness enters) - push the two tabs and pull the cover open.
Put the car in ACC - do not start the car.
Remove the steering lock 10A fuse (top fuse in the lower lefthand block of four fuses - see the pictures in other posts in this thread, or just look at the diagram that is silkscreened into the top of the fuse box). To remove the fuse, I just used the same flat blade screwdriver that I used on the clips to partially pry up the fuse, then I used my fingers to pull it the rest of the way out. No fuse puller or needle-nose pliers needed.
Change the car from ACC to OFF.
Put the cover back on the fuse box.
Put the fuse box back into the steel frame - make sure (a) to align the slots at the center of the box with the tabs in the frame; (b) that the harness will fold under the box and slide down into the area underneath the box; and (c) that the two locking tabs at the top of the box are fully engaged and the box is locked into place when you are done.
If you wish, now is a good time to start the car and make sure that all is well. Before you start the car, make sure that no trim pieces, clips, or tools are loose in the engine compartment.
If you did start the car, turn it OFF.
Re-install the windshield cowl. To reinsert the two clips, push the center portion of the clip all of the way up, then insert the clip, then push the center portion of the clip all of the way down (you should hear a click when it engages). If the clip that goes into the passenger fender side of the cowl does not engage (or if the cowl does not lay flat on the fender), you most likely do not have the fuse box fully seated in the steel frame - remove the cowl and go back to step 12.
Re-install the winshield cowl rubber seal.
Re-install the battery surround trim (remember the portion that goes under the bar), re-inserting the four clips the same way as with the windshield cowl.
Re-install the battery compartment cover.
Pop open a tall frosty can of refreshment, stand back, and admire your $500 savings!

I believe that's it! If I forgot anything, I'm sure someone will let us know.

So, in summary: 15-20 minutes of your time and one flat blade screwdriver to save $500 - not a bad deal at all!

Advice: Put the 10A fuse you removed in a ziplock baggie in the car ("just in case"). In fact, next time I visit the auto parts store I'm going to purchase a few spare 10A and 15A fuses and leave them in the same baggie. Also carry a small flat blade screwdriver in the car in case one of the other fuses blows while you're on the road.

HTH!

DISCLAIMER: Perform this procedure at your own risk - I accept no responsibility for any damage to you or your car!

cheshirecat · 12-26-2012, 03:14 PM

Amazing that Nissan doesn't just issue a recall to pull the fuse on the existing models with the lock.

Whatever.

StLRedrider · 12-31-2012, 12:55 PM

o9 48,000 12/30/12
cut the brown wire no probs since then

12-19-2012, 08:57 AM	#3 (permalink)
axeman71 Base Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Augusta, GA Posts: 129 Drives: '10 Conv A7 Blk Chry Rep Power: 17	2010 Roadster 7AT touring. Mine just failed at 35500 miles. I was out of town visiting friends and got stuck an extra day. Luckily I had 500 miles left on my warranty. __________________ 2010 Roadster, 7AT, Black Cherry, Touring, Navigation, Lighted Kick Plates, Floor and Trunk Mats.

12-21-2012, 11:18 AM	#6 (permalink)
JohnsZ Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Connecticut Posts: 374 Drives: '09 370Z Tour CY M6 Rep Power: 16	How long do I have? Yesterday I went to start my '09 with 22k and got the dreaded...NO START for the first time. After getting out of the car and getting back in, I tried it again and it started. Question, how long before I won't be able to start it at all, i.e can it wait until my next oil change in about a month or so to get it fixed or should I bring it in asap? Also...is the part covered under warranty? Thanks!

12-31-2012, 12:55 PM	#15 (permalink)
StLRedrider A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St.louis,Mo Posts: 17,755 Drives: O9Sprt/Touring,p-51 Rep Power: 62	o9 48,000 12/30/12 cut the brown wire no probs since then __________________ Dream as if you'll live forever, live as if you'll die today J.Dean

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12-21-2012, 03:03 AM	#5 (permalink)
gginaz Base Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: tempe, arizona Posts: 6 Drives: 370z at mb sport pkg Rep Power: 18	mine too failed 39,XXXmi 09 lucked out so to speak though dealership replaced for $536 after having car towed and being there for a week

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cheshirecat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 1,428 Drives: N54 135i Rep Power: 294	Amazing that Nissan doesn't just issue a recall to pull the fuse on the existing models with the lock. Whatever.