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The infamous "break-in" period.

I usually try to break in my cars, but always end up failing in the end. The throttle is just too addicting. I follow the rules for the most part,

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Old 04-09-2009, 06:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I usually try to break in my cars, but always end up failing in the end. The throttle is just too addicting. I follow the rules for the most part, but I'm not paranoid by any means. I don't think breaking in vehicles nowadays is as important as earlier models. I suppose it doesn't hurt, but I don't think it has the benefits of old.
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Old 04-09-2009, 07:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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My opinion is that, after several solid heat cycles (full operating temperature, all the way down to outside temperature), I doubt that much more breaking in is REALLY needed. But, then again, Im no mechanic, either
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Old 04-09-2009, 11:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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ive been doing it on all my cars so why stop now
it doesnt hurt to drive slow for at least 1000miles

but hey if you want to put the "pedal to the metal" who am i to judge :P
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Its been 1 month and 2 days and i just barely got at 9xx miles and i only went over 4k once when i was pasing somebody. I dont like doing it the slow and steady way but who am i to argue with the nissan manual.
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Did you guys read that web page a fellow member posted a while back on why it's better to drive your car hard instead of the recommended process stated by the manual?

It was an interesting website.
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcusMIA View Post
Did you guys read that web page a fellow member posted a while back on why it's better to drive your car hard instead of the recommended process stated by the manual?

It was an interesting website.
It was interesting.

Had to be done in the first 20 miles though, and in theory the factory engine test could of achieved this already.
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Before you go hauling ***, read this!







Due to these different components, "your new tires require a break-in period" to ensure that they deliver their normal ride quality and maximum performance. As tires are cured, a release lubricant is applied to prevent them from sticking in their mold. Some of the lubricant stays on the surface of your tires, "reducing traction until it is worn away".
Five hundred miles of easy acceleration, cornering and braking will allow the mold release lubricant to wear off, allowing the other tire components to begin working together. It is also important to note that your old tires probably had very little tread depth remaining when you felt it was time to replace them. As any autocrosser or racer who has tread rubber shaved off of his tires will tell you, low tread depth tires respond quicker."Don't be surprised if your new tires are a little slower to respond (even if you use the exact same tire as before). Their new, full depth brings with it a little more tread squirm until they wear down.
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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^ Yeah that's good info. I've taken the odd off ramp a bit quick on brand new tires and got quite a surprise!
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Old 04-11-2009, 09:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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What benefit is there to holding the car for 10 minutes at a time at RPMS that are only going to differ by maybe 1000rpm b/w the slowest and fastest speeds (50 and 70mph)? Seems to me that varying between 2000rpm and 3000rpm won't be of much additional value.

Last edited by spearfish25; 04-11-2009 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 04-11-2009, 11:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Deep View Post
An engine-builder friend once told me that over the first 1,000 miles
- Drive a new motor as you would normally around town
- For a performance engine -- run her through some higher rpm's every 75-100 miles, but not to redline. Ever. So, 10-12 run-throughts up through higher rpms within the first 1000 miles
- NEVER drive for a long period at the same speed (long trip) during this 1000 miles. but...
- take a 250 mile drive somewhere, on the freeway without stopping, and spend 10 minutes at a time holding various speeds, faster and slower. something like this.

10 mins at 55...then speed to....
60....10 minutes at 60...then speed up to...
70....10 minutes at 70...then slow to.....
55....10 minutes at 55...then speed up to...
75....10 minutes at 75...then slow to...
50....10 minutes at 50...then speed up to...

60....
Repeat.


Quote:
Originally Posted by spearfish25 View Post
What benefit is there to holding the car for 10 minutes at a time at RPMS that are only going to differ by maybe 1000rpm b/w the slowest and fastest speeds (50 and 70mph)? Seems to me that varying between 2000rpm and 3000rpm won't be of much additional value.
The engine it self needs a variety of fluctuating speeds, it will help it in the future to handle different speeds and performance.
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Old 04-12-2009, 08:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I always like the 'first 20 mile' hypothesis because it puts the responsibility on Nissan and I could just drive like crazy when I got the car
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Pretty difficult since most people will get their cars with more than 20 miles. But I do like any excuse to drive the hell out of a car.
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Old 04-12-2009, 03:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I had a guy at the dealership tell me that my Z didnt really have a break in period because of the way its laser cut but I'm still giving it 500 miles just to make sure.
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by >135I View Post
I had a guy at the dealership tell me that my Z didnt really have a break in period because of the way its laser cut but I'm still giving it 500 miles just to make sure.
Any chance this dealership guy also told you that S-mode increases the power?
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semtex View Post
Any chance this dealership guy also told you that S-mode increases the power?
Rofl, don't worry. I got it.
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