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Originally Posted by Jordo! Thanks for the detailed response! I have a good friend who is an engine builder and he also recommended the rev-up / coast-down method in order
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#11 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SLC, UT
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Drives: '08 Evo X | '10 370Z
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For a rebuilt engine, you get the fastest ring sealing by flogging the **** out of the engine without overheating it for the first 50 miles. You DO have to change your oil after your first idle/leak test or first trip, however. Honestly, this is how many drag racing teams have always broken in their engines - and those last at least a whole season of abuse. This is NOT the advice I'd give to somebody I built an engine for or somebody who bought a crate engine - it's way too risky for somebody who isn't disciplined in breaking in a new engine. I must have done this almost a dozen times now, and I've never had any oil consumption problems except for seal/gasket leaks. I've in fact seen a rebuilt engine never achieve good ring sealing when the owner didn't follow my hard break-in advice. I can almost guarantee the engine would have sealed perfectly if it had been broken in hard.
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![]() '10 PW 370Z 7AT - wife's car - Project Raspberry Cheesecake '08 Evo X - built motor+trans | BB-X @ 32 psi | CH3OH | self-built+tuned - ??? WHP '01 Galant V6 - built motor | GT35R | self-built+tuned - 550+ WHP (retired) Last edited by WarmAndSCSI; 07-19-2010 at 06:19 PM. |
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