Zspeed CMAK backordered

husam2012

Definitely does not have the same problem. They have an external slave cylinder in the new Zs.

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OptionZero

they finally changed it?!

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OptionZero Build Thread

dshaw340

So the CMAK is in and car is on the ground. I bought the OEM pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel. First thing I noticed was the pressure required was a little more which I like. It gives you a better feel of what is going down. The only issue is the pedal engages very close to the floor and if I don't focus on pushing the pedal down all the way it'll grind going into first. Just wanted to see if anyone else had experienced this. I talked with George at Zoho/ZSpeed and he feels confident the master cylinder after being drained and bled will not be able to provide enough pressure. I can see this as only getting worse. Dealer is trying to tell me the new clutch needs to be broken in. George also suggested getting an OEM master. George has had experience with this before and feels 99% the master needs to be replaced. I'm embarrassed to say what the dealer charged me to re and re the tranny etc. and would rather not put any more money into it. If I had a hoist I would have done it myself. I'm too old now to be crawling around on my belly like a reptile. The master looks pretty easy to replace.

abm89

The clutch break-in does not affect your activation point on the pedal. I highly recommend getting that master replaced as it is usually almost mandatory when replacing the slave cylinder or equivalent... to the point where ZSpeed will not warranty the upgraded slave unless the master was replaced at the same time.

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abm89

yep: https://www.z1motorsports.com/clutch...r-p-37349.html

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dshaw340

That makes sense. I guess if you think about it any kind of wear you would get on the disc, pressure plate and flywheel wouldn't be enough to notice any change in the activation point. Thank you!

dshaw340

I was able to raise the activation point by loosening the jam nut at the clevis pin at the pedal and then adjusting the length of shaft of the master. I only did about one full turn and this raised it maybe 1/2". I'm going to try another turn. A little goes a long way and I believe too much will make the needed 'free play' go away.

vtec to vvel

I got mine replaced on 09.18.24 at 41k miles, but only put about 280 miles and still going through the settle-in process.

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dshaw340

I can't say I felt any slipping although as recommended I've 'tried' to keep the RPM below 3000 for 500 miles. I'm at about 100 miles now. Before going out today I gave the master cylinder piston rod an extra turn thereby raising the engagement point up a little more. I had no grinding or hard to find gears. I'm still going to replace the master cylinder as has been suggested by a couple different sources that say after draining and bleeding that the old master cylinder is weakened. I'm just guessing here and please try to get more information on this but apparently the 'stack height' of the clutch is important. I had an ACT clutch/pressure plate in my Miata which worked great but this is a different application for sure and so the stack height may be an issue. You mentioned the clutch engagement was close to the floor. Mine was too close and I was able to rectify this by lengthening the rod at the clevis which raised the engagement point. With the different ACT clutch it may not be disengaging completely making it feel like it is slipping but since the damn car has so much torque it may not act like its slipping. If it is slipping you might want to correct this as premature wear of the clutch may occur or you might get hot spots on the pressure plate.