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If you had started with a Sport or a NISMO, you would have been closer to your goal already. Bolt-on parts on a NA motor will get you around 340HP
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#1 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
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If you had started with a Sport or a NISMO, you would have been closer to your goal already.
Bolt-on parts on a NA motor will get you around 340HP at the back wheels on a stick shift. (A little less with an AT.). A NISMO starts around 295 RWHP, a Sport with about 15 - 18 HP less, with a better diff on both (not a great one, a better one). If you were going to build a higher HP car, you're probably starting from a good place, since the motor, trans and body are the same thru the line, but be aware you will have to change a LOT of parts to make it work. I would be leery of running a stock motor over about the 450 RWHP mark. (I haven't looked at the forced induction kits, so I don't know offhand what kind of power they make.) Our cars are quick out of the box, but mustangs and comatose (snerk. WTG spell check! Comaros) are faster, with more options to upgrade. You have to WANT to drive something everyone else doesn't have, and be willing to spend a few dimes to upgrade. If all you want is fast and loud (shudder), there are cheaper options. Kirk B. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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how the **** you gonna afford a TT set up? It's easily $10K in parts alone
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#4 (permalink) |
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At the time of purchase of the car I had a different job. And yes the particular kit I was looking at was about 13xxx I’m just trying to figure out where to go with this build or whether I should move on to a different car.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I don't know what your budget is but seeing that the AT already puts an upper limit on power/torque an SC kit would probably make more sense. Things that you really should get on top of what ever FI you go with are a oil catch can, gauges (oil pressure, boost, AFR). Also don't forget about all the fluids and extra wires, hoses, cables, connectors you'll need will add up. Also probably best to do engine and trans mounts. And then probably a proper diff and diff mount. Also keep your front crash bar because **** happens.
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GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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