These mothers have some authoritay! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6adb513941.jpg

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Set the length the same as the stock ones. ;)

Lol... Rusty, the first thing I do after I unbox a new part is check your build thread to see if you've posted about it :bowrofl::tiphat:

Pull them apart and anti-seize all the threads. ;)

On top of the anti-seize that SPL had already applied?

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WWwhat? They putting anti-seize on the threads now? Hmmm..........

There is not enough if you dont look like the tin man when you get done

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That deserves some repz, funny (and true).

:rofl2:

They certainly do... but like ZCarp said, a bit more can't hurt. Any issues with using copper anti-seize? I'm trying to avoid the whole "Tin Man Busted a Nut Here" look. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c6dc2c162a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dea2c7fd9b.jpg

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I've never used the copper, just the silver goo. Anything with dissimilar metal gets the tin man money shot

When I was with Elliott. Nickel based was used for gas turbines. Copper based was used for steam turbines. Myself. I use the nickel based because I got a chit load for free at one time. Gave most of it away.

Putting the SPL rear traction links in now and am suffering from a severe case of "While we're in here..." :eek: In this case, it's "you already need to get an alignment, you might as well get the SPL FUCAs beforehand."

The ability of humans to rationalize anything never ceases to amaze.

Rusty, I set the length same as stock, and tried to put both arms on, spacer on subframe followed by FK rod end, but cannot for the life of me get the clevis ends over the knuckle bushing without adjusting the traction link length. Any suggestions?

When you remove the stock traction link. The knuckle will creep out of position. You have to move the knuckle back into position. I pushed mine back in. You may have to jack it up a little.

Something else to look forward to. With the SPL traction link in place. The bottom caliper bolt will not come out. You still can unbolt the caliper tho.

Thank you sir! I think I'll go have a .. discussion .. with the knucks ab the error of their ways.

Gonna teach my kids to always click "Like" whenever SPL parts are shown. :rofl2:

Went to back out the car this morning for the tow truck, and definitely got the clutch pedal on the floor. What's interesting is I have a Zspeed HD CSC (or that is what should be there). I guess after a few years it too can be prone to failure??? Either way, Zspeed CMAK will be ordered and hopefully nothing else is damaged.

Washy Washy

http://scontent.fsac1-1.fna.fbcdn.ne...9f&oe=5D83FFBB

http://scontent.fsac1-1.fna.fbcdn.ne...0c&oe=5D7AC932

Drove it to work today. Always forget how much fun this car is to drive.

Safe to say that my in./lbs. torque wrench is no longer correctly calibrated...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8997db5c59.jpg

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IDK... probably still in the ballpark. :icon17:

Finished insulating the walls in the garage. Took the Z out for a little reward and it was amazing. EW's roommate went along and he said "It scares me" :tup: Someone took a pic of the Z on the expressway; she is quite the looker.

What? You wanted 60 in lbs, and went for 600 ft lbs. :shakes head:

Lol 150 in./lbs. Damn thing never had an issue before.

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It does now. :rofl2:

Yup! And that issue is ME.

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Dropped it off to get the new bumper fitted and painted. Now looking at Seibon hoods

Which bumper did you go with...anything go wrong with your '15 nismo bumper?

Also.... how's the rib?

I got an Amuse front. I got a nice split on the '15 nismo bumper by where it meets the hood and not entirely sure how.

As far as the rib goes it's all better but strangely hurts only when I yawn

I installed the Red ignition push button on my 2017 sport today! Took like 2 minutes. I like it!

I was ab five minutes away from declaring victory in the 8 month war with the Z1 master brake cylinder brace.. and then this happens. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0bd2a3978f.jpg

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Don't why you guys are having problems with this brace. :shakes head: EW installed mine in about 5 minutes. With all 3 bolts to boot. :tup:

Betty, you get the traction links installed?

EW must have dainty hands. And the middle slot for the Z1 brace doesn't line up properly on '14 Nismos, at least. At one point, I had 2 bits, an extension, and a light fall to the bottom of the hydraulic bay. Light had a magnet on back so that was a pure and total b*tch to get out lol.

I installed the links as well. Measured the proper adjustment length with a micrometer, collapsed the links, attached them, then extended to proper length. Gonna schedule an alignment today. Thanks for the advice on that!

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Did you have the right spacers for the links?

Write up a review on the Z1 site. See if it sticks! :driving:

update: Nissan confirmed the HD CSC is blown, but they wanted to charge $950 for labor to install the CMAK. Winding Road Racing in Austin (down the street from my place and responsible for the bad *** corner balancing) quoted me about half to get the work done with some flex hours just in case they needed some more time installing the new system.

They even offered to go pick the car up from Nissan themselves. To RR Nissan's credit, they did not charge me anything to do the work and were really cordial about the whole process. Just waiting on the CMAK to get here.

The spacers appear identical to those on the technical drawing on the front of the instructions. And the instructions say Z34. I think they changed the spacer size/type because they upgraded the FK ends. Mine appear much larger than yours.

Think I got 6 spacers. 2 wide and 4 thinner. The 4 thinner ones put it about right.

The arms are at a slight angle but its not like they're at the limits of their articulation. Camber/midlinks/springs are stock. If the alignment guy has an issue I'll get on the phone to SPL.

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