Adding a pic of the tip fitment. I haven’t added any washers to the hangers. From the view it looks like the outer gap is tight, but it’s not.

How low do those mufflers sit? Looks like you'll be scraping like crazy, or is it just the photo? Otherwise - looking good!

It’s just the angle of the pic. My driveway also goes up hill a little.

Just another oil change with redline. Rolled 250k miles officially.

It's about to get properly cold here, so I cut a piece of cardboard and painted one side with G41 paint to block off my oil cooler!

Took my diff out and prepared for shipping to the specialist who will install a shorter final drive for me!

Sent the diff and the 4.08 final drive for a trip to get mated. To dull my car's pain, I treated the leather with Meguiar's aloe vera leather care, the interior now smells godly.

Adjusted my ramps so I could change the oil. Also just finished up the last data log for Seb @ Specialty Z. Tune is done :tup:

Nice work!

I have some ramps - have not used YET - hoping I don't get crushed!!

Finally took the time to rip out the stock headlights and put some time into them!

I went with:

Morimoto D2S 5.0 projectors
Krylon Fusion Satin Black to go over the chrome garbage
Krylon Fusion Metallic Dark Metal to go over the bezels
Morimoto RetroRubber Butyl Glue
Nissan 370z to D2S 5.0 / G5 Brakets
Diode Dynamics HP5 LED Pure White 194 bulbs

Tools:

Morimoto SealSplitter - This is the best $14 spent for headlight work!! Get one!

Compression Clips - These help when resealing
Large white Zip Ties - These also help when resealing

These lights are a F'n nightmare... everything takes 3-5x longer than anticipated... Memorable moments include - little stupid things like the drivers side headlight removal has these awkward plastic clips from the wire harness into the side of headlight...the headlights barely fit in oven!! and resealing them = takes a few shots of in the oven + pushing clear lens + tightening zip ties, then back in oven, then adding screws, tightening...

For those wanting to embark on this adventure - just beware: plan to have several days off work - I took 4 days because I'm old/slow!

Day 1 = Bumper drop/headlight removal/disassembly of all parts
Day 2 = Painting bezels/country club chrome - 24 + hours to outgas/dry - I let them sit in the sun both outside and inside the house
Day 3 = Re-assembly/reinstall
Day 4 = Refinish external housing - 600-800-1000-1500 grit, 3m hard plastic and lens finish (this you MUST use on a buffer/drill - you WANT HEAT!!!) - once done - you'll have a CLEAR lens!! If you don't - then keep buffing!! If the lens is hazy - do not "just" spray the Meguiars finish. Final step: Alcohol wipe, then Meguiars headlight finish....

Now I finally have that Acura Tsx/S2000 clear cutoff... I am running some old bulbs but once I update those I'll get everyone a photo of the cutoffs...

Here is the finished light:

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1706736601

I was going to put some Morimoto profile pivot strips with the super strip covers over them so you're not looking at a WHITE LINE... however I wanted them horizontal mounted like the Supras... and well... just ran out of time to mount them properly and they do not flex/bend AT ALL to make the curve towards the parking light... so those are sitting here doing nothing...

If I add everything up - including the profile strips I didn't use - and trips to the hardware store - I think I spent about $450 roughly... still better than $1450 for the Morimotos...

This is really a time vs. $$$ thing... If you have time - do the retro - if you're rushed - bite the bullet and get the morimotos or try to drive a second car and send your lights off in the mail and have someone else do them.

Also updated the ugly stock side markers...to the Morimotos

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1706738234

And the Morimoto Tails:

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1706738234

3rd Brake light installed with tails...

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1706738491

Oh very very jealous of your new light combo!!!

I’ve contemplated doing my headlights, but never gather enough courage nor skills lol. Someday if I feel crazy enough, I may send them to Lightwerk or some shop for surgery.

I love the Morimoto taillights too, thought about a pair for the wife’s car. I just deeply wish the turn signal strip is wider/thicker.

Congrats on the lights upgrades!

Thanks!! 10 years of looking at the Chrome lights = hit my breaking point!!!

It's really not "difficult" just more - time consuming. If you have another vehicle to drive to work/etc... then I say go for it!!!

Oven 230 degrees for 17-19 minutes = boom - pulls apart! Just be careful when pulling apart that you don't rip the housing off the running light section...

Otherwise - it's easy - have plenty of space, organize all your parts, take photos... If you want to save some $$ you can go with the Sti-R glass replacement for $57

Taillights - totally worth it - they're MUCH brighter than the stock lights!! I'd say just running - are as bright as the stock lights when you have foot on brake! 3rd brake light is also stupid bright!

True dedication and commitment!!! Very nice work.

Thanks!! was not 'Fun' but totally worth it... I drive 30 miles at night 4 days a week along a dark road where deer love to hangout...

I now understand why the cost is up there for those providing this as a service!

Wife booked a little exotic car track session as a gift. Now I’m all inspired to work on the Z more.

Driver side was pretty easy. Passenger side…I think I’ll either delete the washer fluid reservoir or buy a small aftermarket bottle.

Need to get a 4 to 2 inch reducer too.

Didn't do anything with the car today myself, buuuuut, the specialists who installed a shorter final drive in my diff, shipped it today my way! Wooohoo!

I fixed my rear endlinks. The car feels like it should again haha.

Gotta love spamming this thread.

I received my diff with 4.08 gears installed! The specialist also took time to sandblast the housing and paint it so it looks brand new.
The only issue is....the carrier wasn't too careful with the package and this thing got bent and broken. Is it just a screw off/on piece?

https://i.imgur.com/RIWDaich.jpeg

That sucks. It looks like it presses in. See the link below for the part

https://www.z1motorsports.com/trans-...be-p-7597.html

Thanks for the link. Ok, pressing it in can probably be achieved by using a pipe cut in length, and gently hammering it in. But.. How do i take the old one out? Just grip it and unscrew it?

Honestly, I don’t know. Never did it.

Maybe someone else will chime in…

In the meantime, I gave it some thought and maybe if I just bend the tube back (provided that it's not pinched) - I could just use some JB weld around it and it should be OK, right?

Just make sure it doesn’t seep into your diff. I’ve never used JB weld. :-)

Are you going to order a new breather tube?

That piece is pressed in. You can braze the crack closed. Or you can drill and tap threads. Install a fitting then.

Thanks for the advice guys.

JB Weld is very thick, it can't seep in, no worries about that. I'm also thinking, since it's just a breather tube, the pressure flowing isn't too crazy, and if the tube isn't pinched, just JB Weld should be ok....right? Or am I forgetting anything?

I contacted the guys who fixed my diff to see if they'd send me a new breather tube or not, so I'll see what's the easiest option. I really wanna make sure it works well (either reinstall or fixing) because I really don't want to be dropping my diff YET AGAIN.....

They also make JB Weld PUTTY. Works awesome!

Just buy a new rear cover, you will get that piece.

I mean, I could, but is it really worth it? If it's just a breather tube with no crazy pressures and if metal putty will work, then I think a new cover is an overkill. I still gotta try fixing it first, I didn't have time yet to get around to it. I'll post updates in a few weeks when I can.

In the meantime - the new tyres arrived for the Z. I bought Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric 6. https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Goo...ymmetric-6.htm They should be pretty good. I bought the stock dimension (245, 275)

Agreed. If it bends back, seal it with JB weld and call it a day. If it snaps, drill/tap it for a fitting.

Or use this as an opportunity to go with a high capacity finned diff cover.


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After ten LONG years of looking at these hideous silver refrigerator door handles, I reached my breaking point!!

Status: Drying...

Process:

Easy to remove - I was able to unscrew 1/2 screws on each side for the door lock button... the other one - as others have posted - was rusted, but I think I can press it back into it's old spot as the screw goes into a washer that's seated into the door housing - basically they pressfit the nut that it goes into... I did not want to deal with getting in there to remove those blue clips!!

Note: The "torq" bolt - don't bother ordering a special set of them - mine was not even hand tight...but now I have a whole set for future use... if you're just doing the handles only - you can get away with a flathead (there's only that one on the drivers side).

Spent a solid 30 minutes per handle sanding with 600...then paper towel wipe, then alcohol swab wipe...

Then:

1) 4 Coats of aluminum primer - it sprays white...

2) 5 Coats of black primer - This is what you want for dark blue base coat apparently... other colors you want either a white primer - or grey primer...please do research as it - somehow - makes a difference in terms of how your paint will behave in different lighting...Paint experts can chime in on that topic

3) 5 Coats of base coat - I used a company called touchupzone.com - $34 for a single can - used prettymuch all of it

4) Era Paints 2K clear - this stuff is pure evil - Buy the 3m respirator and appropriate filters - this is easily the strongest stuff I have ever sprayed myself...I ended up doing around 5 coats... It was orange peel like on coats 1-3... so keep spraying and it levels out nicely!

Currently drying - Will wait 2 days til I attempt to put them back on car:

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1707957331

Oh and: the windows went down like they were possessed - so - that will be "fun" doing the whole reset thing... for now they went back up if I put turned car on like usual... Somehow Nissan knows when you're removing the drivers side handle...

Man you are on fire lately!

I settled for the later model year dark chrome ones on the wife’s car. Not nearly as good as having them painted but a little better than the eye sore bright silver…

Jealous again

There's no attachment point on those handles you have to drill out?? I remember reading some had a part you had to drill out then use a screw when installing?

If you want to completely disassemble them for painting then there are 2 pieces that need to be drilled out and tapped for screws. That's how I did mine. It's not necessary but assures that you get complete coverage underneath the handle itself.

I think i'm the only one who likes the silver door handles.

I did buy silver aftermarket wheels so maybe i'm the problem haha.

Yeah it's not difficult - just do them over three days - one day to remove/paint, then a solid day to dry, then another day to put back on car.

I ended up using a small rock to pop them open slightly - then using the velocity of the paint - to prime them. After the primer stage - I closed them as I want complete coverage when they're closed. You are able to get close as you paint to get the paint in there... kind of an art - I figure that's the compromise vs. taking the time to drill them apart...

Will get photos up tomorrow after installing back on car!

I Like them but my car is silver like the one in the forum page header, one of the few colors they don't seem out of place on. :tup:

Installed VR30 7AT w/new internal filter, added auxiliary external filter, and aluminum driveshaft.

Nissan is WAY overkill with brackets on the trans.!! The one employed for the trans. breather on the bellhousing bolt at 12 o'clock is ridiculous, simply zip tied it to coolant cross-over pipe on the drivers side in damn near the same position as the bracket. I deleted 3 brackets in all not including the two that bolt to the bellhousing bottom which can't be retained due to the VR30 bellhousing missing their bolt bosses.

In the process I learned a easy way DIY transmission flush that can be employed on most vehicles. Simply remove the rubber return trans. cooler line from the hard line leading to the engine and let it drain into a container until it looks new while (caveat) pouring fluid into the dipstick tube.

I used to like it too. Then slowly getting converted to the other side lol.

I have a white V1, so the door handles aren’t as huge of a contrast than the darker color cars, and i make the weak argument of silver headlights, silver rims, silver door handles, the bezel on the side marker, sorta just go together…just to keep my peace

But after I installed the CF brake ducts and intake ducts,
the silver is a thorn again. Sigh