Looked at it while checking the oil in my Honda daily driver ��

Installed a pair of led license plate lights to replace the dust encrusted stock license plate lights and got the oil changed with some fresh ester:)

Yeah, I haven't been able to find any answers on it either.

Pretty sure they did. They're a pretty reputable shop and I know it's not their first rodeo.

I'm just paranoid it's something serious, but maybe it's nothing.

Speaking of pulling timing, I think i've finally chased down why the code comes back. I have a hypothesis for you guys to check before i go ahead and get the work done:

I ran some more logs with more parameters in the settings for the ECUTek reader, and I found out that my car is being told by ecutek to pull timing after 4K RPM on WOT, which is a built in protection from the software. So the ticking sound im hearing.... could it be a bad fuel pressure regulator/damper? I hear the annoying ticking sound on accel and decel (I heard that’s a symptom)

installed new front and rear dash cam.

Dropped it off at the shop yesterday. They're gonna do a smoke test to make sure I don't have any air leaks before looking at the fuel system.

Picked my Z up today from the same shop today :tup:

Got a new ZSpeed clutch kit and CMAK installed along with solid transmission mount and test pipes.

Your kidneys pissing blood yet?

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I have solid motor and transmission mounts... Should be interesting.

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LOL, Im having Kevin take my Solid mounts out and put in some Poly mounts I've had on my shelf for months while he's looking at the car. I'm getting sick of stuff getting rattled loose.

That and im veering more towards a street car setup. I don't see myself doing track time anytime soon.

Solid motor mounts and poly transmission mounts here and no excessive vibration at all.

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I've got solid motor and trans mounts. Shìt is rattling like crazy now. Just coasting at under about 2.5K RPMs with no throttle makes a god awful whining. Can't wait until I get the solid diff and subframe bushings installed! :rock:

Because RACE CAR. :driving:

Change out the solid transmission mounts to poly. You can do it in your garage. It is so easy I successfully completed that task lol.

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Now why would I do that? :icon14:

Actually, the number one reason would be you may end up having issues with your shifter or shifting because of the increased stiffness of the transmission. It is not necessarily a form over function thing!

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We all know JAR doesn't actually drive his Z. He just likes feeling the vibrations in certain places.

Agreed! LMAO

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What causes the problems? Isn't the shifting mechanism built into the xmission, ie, if there's any movement, it all moves together?

I agree with Hotrodz. I do have the poly mount for my transmission. It's already super rigid.


Honestly Jar, I should have told Kevin to let you drive mine down the street so you can feel/hear how much rattles in there with the solid engine and diff mounts + poly

I don't think your logic is off. What I have read is that don't move in synchrony because of the slop that is there with the mounting setup. We all have experienced shifting issues when shifting between 3rd and 4th gears and some between 2nd and 3rd. I guess can even get worse with solid mounts. I'm just repeating what some have experienced.

Also, there is no notable performance gain that I have heard from having solid vs poly transmission mounts. Both are an improvement over OEM. The solid motor mounts increase performance because you don't lose hp do to engine twist. It is significant enough that Seb scolded me for not telling him I had added them because the added hp need to be considered in my tune. Probably not a big deal for NA builds.

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Wound out 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears to redline this morning. Zero issues shifting :driving:

Go big daddy go!

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IKR!! :rolleyes:

Since I'm NA, I barely hit the speed limit on SH 130...

Did you say you barely hit 130 the SH?!

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LOL nah it's Tollway 130 out here. Speed limit is 80 but you have to do 90 to not get run over.

Jar, are you tuned already?

LOL, I it is a tollway and tollways = raceways!

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It seems to me that the more rigid the mounting of the transmission (and thus the shifter), the less the shifter will move and the easier it will be to shift - the gate won't be moving around on you as much.

Since the engine and transmission are bolted together, seems like stiffer mounts on either one would help reduce twist in the other. Ie, stiffer mounts on the trans only should have the same (or very close) effect as stiffer mounts on the engine only.

Maybe I just don't understand the physics and geometry involved and need some enlightenment. I'm not too old to learn. :)

LMAO, like I I'm only passing on what I had read from a few people's experience. I went with the poly based on a lot more comments made by track folks, mechanics and others.

The Z has more than a few things that don't make sense.

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I was warned not to do it at my power level. I still have the factory tranny mount and that is the way it will stay. Otherwise, I risk cracking the block. So rigid is not always better.

OK. That makes sense.

Yeah, a little flex can be a good thing. Many, many moons ago, my buddies and I built a "dune buggy" out of an old VW Bug. Got a real good deal on some heavy-wall pipe to use for the side of the chassis. We broke several welds and other parts after going airborne a few times. Switched to some lighter pipe and problems disappeared.

And it's an 85 mph speed limit a bit south of town :tup: :driving:

Yeah I've got an Ecutek tune from years ago. New intakes and test pipes mean it's time for a retune. Plus I still need the RaceRom features.

Replaced my clock spring last night, honestly I didn't even know that was a thing.

lmao, yeah i had to do that to mine when i messed it up trying to install a steering wheel hub that wouldn't fit (like an idiot). That was my final lesson on buying cheap parts.

Works bell or go home.

I had to change one in my Power Wagon years ago. I was out rock crawling and my air bag light popped on. :icon14:

Swapped the winter wheels on. Damn stock silver wheels are gross.

Fify

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My airbag light is still flashing how do you reset it?

The FSM has the procedure. Link in my sig. :tiphat:

Loaded the stock map to see if that clears my emissions issues and OMG. The Z is a whole different creature. That's been lamed. Weak acceleration in anything but WOT. Much quieter. And it heats up like a mofo, even with a 34 row oil cooler and the Seibon hood.

Seb's tune was worth every penny. Now to clear emissions so I can reload it. Only things still showing "not completed" are evap and fuel system.

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