Oil Change for the 370Z

Dwight Frye

I can't comment on which ramps will work for your Nismo but some have suggested to use a couple of sections of 2x6" planks right in front of the lead part of the ramp to help clear the front lip.
Given that the VQ engines are known to run hot, I think running a good synthetic is imperative. Get a cordless drill or screwdriver and the right size metric socket and remove every bolt and also the plastic clips that hold the under body shield on. Pay attention to where the bolts came from as the ones towards the rear are not the same as the others. I found it easier to work under the car to take the whole panel off but some just take off the rear bolts and bend the shield at the crease.
For oil, I have decided on Redline 5-30W, and for the filters I like the Mobil 1, part # M110. The M108 is the standard and same capacity as the Nissan filter, but the M110 is a little longer and with higher capacity. The Purolator Pure 1 filters are also highly recommended. Make sure to change out the copper crush washer with each oil change. I bought 6 from the dealer for about $10 so I'm covered for the next 3 years.
I changed the factory fill at 1250 miles and refilled with Nissan ester oil @ $11.99 per quart and a Mobil 1 filter. When I hit 5K miles I'm switching to the Redline synthetic which is also expensive not not as high as the Nissan oil. If you have done oil changes on other cars you won't have a problem with your Z. I plan on changing out the Redline oil every 5K miles after that. I could probably go 7500 miles with no problem but I'm trying to wean myself from the habit of 3K oil changes with dino oil that I have practiced since 1971.