Traction issues with more power?

[somedude]

Hey guys. new guy here. First off, let me say im super stoked to own a '13 370z. I just bought it and im loving it. I am trying to build my z so I have quite a lot of questions, but the first one I guess is this:
Is there a way to put the power to the ground in the event of having around 500 hp output?.
What I mean by that is will I be able to hit the gas from the whole and go somewhere or will I just spin the rubber forever and ever? I don't want to have all this power on tap but only be able to use it on rolling starts or stuff like that. I will put aftermarket springs that will lower me by about .8 or .9 inches, however, that is not going to up the traction big time. Mostly handling of course. Im trying to avoid changing tire size (wider). Im also avoiding playing with the gearing. I know the VDC is there, but I don't want the more traction because of the less power obviously.
Anyways, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Happy motoring

[Ventruck]

Wider tires is probably the only substantial way to get things done.

Only other thing that comes to mind is EcuTek offers a modified traction control setup. I don't have the power to really test it, but in my experience it interferes than stock.

[B&W_Evader]

You can spin the tires in first with the stock hp. Unless you get drag tires, the extra hp is going to help a little in 2nd and a lot in 3rd and above. Getting drag tires is going to screw up your handling. May as well start with something that's designed to go straight if that's your main interest.
Enjoy your TT Z! I need to work on power upgrades.

[OldGuyFla]

Welcome , lots of good info. here someone will be able to help.

[Chuck33079]

Wide sticky tires are the easiest way. An alignment with as little camber in the rear as possible. Other than that, it's tough. A 500whp Z will have traction issues until 3rd.

[somedude]

thanks a lot for the few replies. I might look into that Ecutek traction system. I am not that serious into drag racing anyways. I know the z platform is not really made for that. I am just trying to do a 500hp build that will act as a daily driver. I am aware of the stillen Supercharger and I believe that with that kit plus a CAI, an exhaust and a tune I will be able to achieve it. I am just looking at the handling aspect first since that should be the 1st concern when doing any kind of build. I will keep you guys posted so I can share some knowledge and help people out if they need. Happy motoring!!!

[Chuck33079]

Originally Posted by somedude

I am aware of the stillen Supercharger and I believe that with that kit plus a CAI, an exhaust and a tune I will be able to achieve it.

1. A CAI will not work with a SC kit.
2. You will not even sniff 500whp with the stillen kit, even with a custom tune, without throwing a whole lot of the kit away and upgrading it.
3. An unmodified stillen kit, even with a custom tune, is the express train to a blown motor.

[scope22]

If you boost without any supporting mods, then you're asking for trouble, one day you'll forget and give it too much gas coming out of a turn and you'll spin out into a ditch. You need wider tires, sways, chamber arms...even then you're never 100% safe, with 500whp you give it gas gradually when you feel tires break lose you pull back a bit

[somedude]

So all that stuff I have been reading about how reliable the stillen SC is bs? I get that if you go to their website they just want to sell their stuff (just like everybody else), but out of all the kits that I have looked into they seem to be the mildest and more reliable. The only thing that I read about their kit not being reliable might be the pulleys because they use plastic ones. So does anybody out there have a 13' 370z with around 500hp without going the Turbo way? And if so, how heavy are the mods? I mean 332hp is stock. Is it really that hard to get about 180hp more with a stillen kit, exhaust and a tune?. The tune that stillen offers is around 40hp. There are quite a few exhausts for our platform that will give you around 15hp maybe 18hp. That's 55 to 60hp right there. The stillen kit will not give you 120hp more? I'm I totally wrong about this numbers? I have been reading numerous threads and reports and product reviews and those numbers do not sound crazy to me. Please feel free to chime in. As always, happy motoring

[Chuck33079]

The Stillen kit as shipped is a ticking time bomb, regardless of tune. It measures intake temps before the compressor, and the heat exchanger is a joke. IATs are through the roof. TopgunZ here makes a kit to fix all of that, and those people are seeing the power you're looking for. But out of the box the Stillen kit is a terrible idea. Either go with the TopgunZ setup with the stillen, or forget the SC completely and pick up one of the Boosted Performance single turbo kits (which is what you should do).

[Butterybunz]

I have a 500+whp Z. I have sticky Pirelli P-Zero tires in a 315 size in the rear, I can still break them loose in second and third if they are cold. You just always need to be mindful of the power and respect it, once the tires are warmed up I can hook in third and sometimes second. I have very little camber in the rear to get more contact patch.

[Jhill]

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

The Stillen kit as shipped is a ticking time bomb, regardless of tune. It measures intake temps before the compressor, and the heat exchanger is a joke. IATs are through the roof. TopgunZ here makes a kit to fix all of that, and those people are seeing the power you're looking for. But out of the box the Stillen kit is a terrible idea. Either go with the TopgunZ setup with the stillen, or forget the SC completely and pick up one of the Boosted Performance single turbo kits (which is what you should do).

Not to argue with you as I've seen your post before and you know what you are talking about but the heat exchanger on the stillen not being an air to air shouldn't be the end of the world though and cause the engine to be a ticking time bomb should it? I mean I've heard some of the BMWs are now using a air to water cooler in manifold like the stillen kit so in theory if the tune were right and you knew the coolers ability to drop temps per ambient etc wouldn't it be safe?

[Chuck33079]

Originally Posted by Jhill

Not to argue with you as I've seen your post before and you know what you are talking about but the heat exchanger on the stillen not being an air to air shouldn't be the end of the world though and cause the engine to be a ticking time bomb should it? I mean I've heard some of the BMWs are now using a air to water cooler in manifold like the stillen kit so in theory if the tune were right and you knew the coolers ability to drop temps per ambient etc wouldn't it be safe?

The biggest problem isn't the water to air intercooler. It's the fact that the ecu doesn't really know the temperature of the intake air since the maf is before the intercooler. An air to water intercooler isn't necessarily a bad thing. It's just this particular one is undersized and heatesoaks easily, which is an especially bad thing in this case since the ecu is thinking the air temp is close to ambient.

[somedude]

Wow. I am really stoked by all the knowledge here guys. Learning quite a bit. So to be honest with you all the reason why I am not entertaining a boosted option is because I have heard many, many, horror stories and I have this vehicle as a daily driver. I just hope that I am not looking for the famous unicorn (just in case you guys are confused, I mean chasing something that does not exist aka daily driver reliable 500hp vehicle). I have two friends with aftermarket boosted hatches (2014 GTI and 2015 FOST) and their vehicles need a lot of attention and a lot of mods to sustain their new numbers. Am I kind of wrong about turbos? What do you guys think? Would I be able to achieve what am looking for without killing my car 2 years from now?

[Jhill]

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

The biggest problem isn't the water to air intercooler. It's the fact that the ecu doesn't really know the temperature of the intake air since the maf is before the intercooler. An air to water intercooler isn't necessarily a bad thing. It's just this particular one is undersized and heatesoaks easily, which is an especially bad thing in this case since the ecu is thinking the air temp is close to ambient.

Right I understand the air temp issue I'm just curious how other cars with water to air cooler in the intake (like BMW) do it. I guess I'll have to see where their air temp sensor is but I assumed it was in the untalented path as well.