Kansas City

Ghostvette

Did you put enough lug nuts on to keep the rotor straight? If not, then that's why it felt uneven.

Put the wheels on, put the lug nuts on snug (don't torque yet), put the car on the ground, now torque to proper value. Press on the brake pedal a couple of times to seat the pads against the rotors before you start the car and move it. As long as you didn't get grease on the rotors when you assembled the caliper and pads to the bracket, you should be fine. I'm sure there are steps people take to 'bed' the pads, but in my experience, it's not really necessary. That being said, I wouldn't go out and try to go from 60 to zero in 3 seconds...

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

Gilianz

Yeah, I put the wheels back on so I can drive to the shop. They straightened out. And I plan to just daily drive to bed them in. There is not many places i can go from 60 to 20 constantly in KC.

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Takeda CAI : FI Resonated TP : Stillen UD Pulley

victorofhavoc

Freeway ramps on i70 would work just fine...I used them for this purpose.

There are some pads/rotors that don't need a bed in process, and some really do. If yours do and you daily drive it without bed in, you'll notice some discoloration that looks like warping on the rotor. The only thing it will do is age your rotors faster (how much is arguable). If you ever track the car you'll notice some pedal vibration that will feel like brake fade, but isn't.

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!