2013 sport build
 

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http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...ml#post2792962

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...ood-vents.html

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...te-thread.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...o-results.html

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...-bolt-kit.html

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...yone-post.html

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...night-day.html

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...installed.html

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ne-filter.html

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...-diffuser.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...1-diy-cai.html

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...fferences.html

http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/...-z-rpf1-s.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...-dual-cbe.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...ml#post2713426

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To date 1/14

Weighed stock, full tank 3361 lbs

1. GTR start button
2. GTR dome light covers
3. LED DTRL hooked up all the time; don't turn off with headlights turning on
4. Gutted trunk, engine covers, TB coolant hoses, baby seat bracket, drivers side fuse box thing, trunk sound deadening, about 60lbs so far
5. Magnetic oil drain plug
6. Oil changed at 20 miles after hard break in with dino oil
7. Pura long filter
8. Moved windshield washer bottle to trunk, 3/4 gallon Devils Own bottle
9. Installed my own AOS
10. Z1 SS premium brake lines
11. Rbf600 fluid, brakes and clutch
12. TopSpeed true dual CBE
13. Changed oil second time 1127 miles, Redline 5w-30 full synthetic
14. OEM chin spoiler relocated

Weighed in at 3280 full tank

1. RPF1's 18x9.5+45, 18x10.5+15
2. HTR z3 255/285
3. Z1 20mm front bolt on spacers
4. More sound deadening and panels removed
5. 11lbs Deka battery
6. Installed 18" resonators to delete cold start rasp
7. My own CAI like the Stillen
8. Whiteline front sway bar
9. Hood vent mod
10. Brake duct cooling lines
11. More gutting
12. Made my own rear camber and toe bolt lockout kit
13. Color matched brake duct cooling inlets
14. Blacked out lower lip
15. Z1 post MAF tubes
16. Redline mt-85 tranny fluid
17. Redline 75w90 diff fluid

New scale, 3101 lbs with 10 dots on the gauge. Fully fueled should be 3147 lbs

1. Long tube headers
2. Thermal wrapped long tubes and Y pipe
3. More gutting
4. New CBE, straight pipe axle back
5. Removed all sound deadening
6. Made custom switch board where center glove box used to be

New race form weight 3083 lbs! Still some to go.

1. Finished diff cooler gauge install
2. Yaw sensor kill switch
3. Started deleting wires that are unnecessary

Weight to be seen.

1. Finished diff cooler install
2. Swift spec-r front spring, swift 65mm/6" 10k rear spring
3. SPL diff bushings
4. SPL camber arms
5. SPL traction arms
6. SPL mid links





update 5/13/15,
313HP/266TQ 5th gear SAE

Engine----
LTH---------OBX, Done
CAI---------3" Mine, Done
AOS---------Mine, Done
PnP TB, upper and lower mani-------Mine, Done
Tune----------Covert, Done
Engine mounts---------Done
Oil cooler---------Mine, Done
PS cooler---------$
CBE coming out the side skirt-------Done


Drive----
Rear diff cooler--------Mine, Done
Clutch--------$
Flywheel--------$
SPL diff bushings--------Done
Drop Eng. tranny mount--------Done
Redline diff fluid---------Done
Redline tranny fluid--------Done
Clutch slave cylinder--------$

Suspension----
Stance 2 way coilovers------18k/8k, Done
SPL toe links------Done
SPL traction arms--------Done
SPL rear chamber arms-------Done
Hotckins front sway bar------Done
SPL front lower bushing-----$
SPL front impact bushing------$
SPL camber arms front-------Done
SPL rear knuckle bushings------Done
SPL front end links-------Done
Traction and yaw kill switch------Done

Brakes-----
Z1 SS brake lines------Done
Front brake cooling ducts------Done
Rear brake cooling ducts------Done
Rbf600 fluid-------Done
2 piece front rotors------Done
2 piece rear rotors-------Done
Xp12------Done
Xp10-------Done

Chassis
Roll cage--------Done

Aero
Front splitter-----Mine, Done
Canards------Mine, Done
GT wing------APR GT250, Done
Rear diffuser--------Done

Wheels/tires
RPF1's 18x10.5 +15/-5 (Z1 20mm spacer), 285/35/18------Done


Safety
FIA seat------Done
brackets-----Planted, Done
belt------Done
Hans------Done

Misc.
11lbs battery------Deka, Done
moved washer bottle-------Done
Fuel tank mod-------Done

24/7 DTRL

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i wanted to install my AOS but as i started to i knew i had to move the windshield washer fluid bottle. so i cut the wires to the plug and added length. then i hid them and the hose running the fluid to the spray nozzles through the rubber grommet into the cab. then i ran them to the trunk following wires that were already there so they are all hidden and out of sight. i just need to drill and tap the bottle and put a fitting on it to match the OEM pump with a hose. its like a 1/2 ID hose i'll need.

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now i can install the AOS. i mounted it out of the engine bay since i believe most of what people catch in their catch cans is water! it looks like its all oil but its not. going from ambient temp to 200* back to ambient over and over causes a lot of condensation in a hollow big metal can. out of the engine bay the only temp swings will be a couple of degrees. this might also help with power since the manifold sucks hot dirty oil vapor into the engine from the PCV's. having the hot air go out of the engine where the outside air will hit it and cool the AOS down, the air returning to the manifold will be much cooler.

FYI, the reason i call it an AOS is because its not just a catch can. there is internal baffling that separates the oil from the air. at the bottom of the AOS is a hose with a plug that you just pull when you do an oil change and everything in the AOS will come on out. if need be you can also just pull the AOS off and break it apart to clean it real good.

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So on eBay there are 4 more titanium looking dual cbe's, oem style, no resonators, true X pipe, 63mm OD. I got it for $425 shipped (which was surprising since the box was so big it must have been $100 to ship) because they said the X pipe was messed up. Well I was able to bend it out more 3/4" to fit the OEM cats but the flanges were then slightly twisted and didn't line up. So i cut the flanges about 2" in and had some SS 2.5" ID pipe that I used as a slip joint coupling. I also had to do it to one of the mid pipes as it was off. I also needed to add some washers for equal sitting of the tips but over all its perfect now and for $425 it's unbeatable! Me buying just the pipe, flanges, mufflers etc I would of been at $400 plus time to weld, make bends, go through sawzall blades etc. if anyone's interested there are more left. I'd highly recommend take it to a muffler shop so they can do some slight bends to make it fit perfect.

Over all everything else is very nice. I couldn't have tig welded it any better, it's true 304SS, it doesn't rub or hit anything, the inside flanges are ground down for smooth flow, and I still have the same resonators FI uses if its to raspy or loud. No real driving yet or pics. Ill post later.

After first drive...pretty shocked. Vids of any CBE suck, i don't care what camera you have or what sound equipment you got. They all blow. Hearing this in person I'm pretty blown away so far. It's extremely deep, no rasp, no drone in the 2-3k range (still stock cats which is probably why), and driving in 6th up to 2k its dead quite. Like stock quite! But o lord when you punch it, its loud and sounds amazing! When you start the car cold however when the motor is revving to 2k, its loud. Loud enough to wake the neighbors. But after a minute and you hit idle its quite again. The tips sit out about a 1.5" which im ok with becuase you either get a black bumper with flush tips, or no black bumper with extended tips. im ok with extended leaving my bumper alone. Overall on a 0-10 scale I give this a 9-10 for me because I like loud and deep and didn't mind the work. Again you can drive around quite if you want to! I think others will give it a negative since I don't think even a perfect one with a Y pipe will fit as well as I was able too therefore people are going to give it negative feedback because of the fitting issues.

As far as normal fitment...it doesn't scrape the ground, the pipes are high up and don't even come down below the level of the under car. The back muffle flanges to me even sit higher than the stock flanges and they still don't hit the rear cross brace bars. I'm pretty happy. Best $425 I've spent on a part while others are getting $&#%*^ at $1000 plus.

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Slip joint I made. Didn't have my tig welder or SS wire so I just used exhaust paint.

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Finished washer fluid bottle relocation. Now plenty of room for brake cooling duct lines :)

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I'm impressed...sub'd

^^^thanks!


Changed my oil second time today, Redline 5w-30 full synthetic :happydance:. Motor has 1124 miles now. Motors fully broken in and I'm glad its broken in right and hard! There was no oil loss between 20 and 1124 miles and my AOS has very little oil in it. In the pic of the caught AOS oil that's not all oil. I cut a old tire shine bottle open and there was still some liquid in the bottle. I'd say after about 1100 miles I got about a teaspoon of oil (1/2 of what you see). Compared to my 13 ram hemi its about 10 times less for the same amount of miles driven! Also my magnetic drain plug picked up some nice very very fine metal shavings. Glad I installed that little guy.

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Here's the hemi at 1000 miles

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my new RPF1's. I went with a 18x9.5 +45 front and 18x10.5 +15 rear.

What I'm super stoked about is weight!! Online I see the OEM 19's weight (not 100% sure about the 2013's) 23.2 front and 23.8 rear. My new wheels are 17.4 front and 19.05 rear says Enkie. Also, OEM tires are 29 front and 33 rear. My new tires just for DD and had some good reviews are Sumitomo HTR Z3's which in Tireracks shootout beat the Hancook V12's that seem popular around here. They are 27.84 front and 29.08 rear (my weight). I got 255/40 and 285/35. Just a tad wider and shorter than OEM but they were really cheap. Also because I got black wheels I went with Gorilla black lug nuts. They are a lot smaller so I should save weight there too. I'm also not putting my OEM tire sensors back so again more weight savings.

So total weight loss of unsprung weight should be about 32.5 lbs that I know of so far; 13.6 front and 18.9 rear not including sensors, lugs or new 20mm front spacers.

Now I did weigh the OEM rear wheel and tire (forget the front) and got 57.5 pounds. So online might be wrong. Either way I know ill lose over 20 pounds and that's key since most of the weight is on the rear wheels. I'm not one to believe 1 lbs of unsprung weight equals 20 lbs of sprung weight but here's to hoping for a 400 lbs diet :bowrofl:


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Almost there!

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Very nice build thus far...

Thanks

Ok wheels are in and installed! The backs fit perfect. There is tons of room and its a perfect look too on the stock setup and specs. I know once I lower ill go more negative camber so it won't look so flush but that's the price you pay I guess for better handling.

The fronts are also pretty good at the moment. I think they'll look better with more negative camber again when I lower. Right now they are sticking out a little to much for my liking.

The rear needed no spacer obviously and its good at +15 offset. The fronts I went with the 20mm Z1 bolt on spacer. Overall that makes it +25 offset. I could have had the 15mm longer studs spacer work but I would of had almost no clearance with the caliper and frankly I didn't want to do the work! Also I don't like the idea of longer studs. Seems to easy to break being so long. The bolt ons were much easier and there is lots of clearance for bigger tires one day.

I did also have to get gorilla wheel rings so the wheels have a perfect fit to the hub centric rotors and spacers. I needed a 66.06 ID, 73mm OD rings.

The tires also seem pretty nice. Doesn't seem as easy to spin the back wheels which is a good thing since that means traction. They're only 10mm more than stock but since they're on a 10.5" wheel instead of a 10" wheel it might be more than just 10mm wider. At a 300 wear rating they also seem pretty sicky compared to the 140 of the stock RE050A's. They are also A LOT QUITER than the OEM tires! So far I think they will be a very nice DD tire!

Overall...
RPF1 18x9.5 +25, 255/40 HTR Zlll, Z1 hub centric bolt on 20mm spacer
RPF1 18x10.5 +15, 285/35 HTR Zlll
Gorilla hub centric rings 66.06mm ID, 73mm OD
Gorilla chrome black lugs

Lost 5.4lbs for each front wheel/tire including everything down to the lugs
Lost 8.7lbs for each rear wheel/tire including everything down to the lugs

Don't mind the silver. Couldn't get a black in any offset! Plasti dip to the rescue! Better pics later of the black...

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OEM chin spoiler moved all the way forward.

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Nice work :tup:

Thanks. Now that my cars dry on the inside! :shakes head:

Nice job!

Thanks.

Decided to do a lightweight battery. Went with a etx15l which is basically a odyssey pc680, 11lbs. I highly doubt the Braille p2015 puts out what it says it puts out and everyone says Deka makes the brallies anyways. I ran that battery here in ohio for 2 years without issue. Also if you look at Dekas sheets, every ETX battery you find will have identical specs at any store with the same part number! I ended up buying a etx15l from autozone with a Duralast sticker on it.

I had to do a little work to get it to fit right but I had all the stuff so no big deal. I replaced the OEM tray with a lightweight 1/8th peice of aluminium, made 2 paper thin steel tubes to increase the height so the terminals would be at OEM height, and had to buy 2 steel cylinders so the OEM rings had something to fit around as a terminal. The etx batteries don't come with the right kind of terminal top like the OEM battery has. Last I relocated the negative ground wire which worked out perfect because there was a bracket there with the same size holes. Just a simple bolt down. The bracket was holding 2 relays so I just zip tied them to some wires.

All in all I'd guess I saved around 22lbs.

Since this is what drag racing mode looks like, I'm off to the scales tomorrow. Last time I was there I weighed 3280 with a full tank of gas which was down from 3361 bone stock and a full tank. This time I have the lighter wheels and tires, battery, seat removed, more sound deadening and more body panels. I always go with a full tank filled up 1 street away. Since I know what a gallon of gas weighs, its easy to guess how much fuel is out of the tank by counting the dots. Fingers crossed its a good number!


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Today i installed some 18" resonators because when my exhaust is really cold above 4k i hear some rasp i hate. also there was some gargling on down shifting. there is no noise at all now! sounds way better! but its very quite now! im hoping the test pipes really kick it back up in loudness. also im making my own cai :)

So to update this I have all the parts needed but the filters. I ended up getting what you see in the pics. I'm going to cut my MAF sensors off the stock air boxes as its the same ID as the Stillen's. the couplings provide the bends needed and it will sit just like them.

Now doing this I've spent about $110 on the 6 couplings and clamps. I could save more if I bought a lot of each item and I was thinking about eliminating the 90* couplings as people on eBay sell pipe in a 90* bend. I'd just give them the length I needed since the filter end is shorter than the MAF section. The k&N filters that Stillen uses are $70 shipped from the cheapest place I could find online. So people out there doing drop in's for around $70, or whatever the drop in's cost, for $110 more you now have a Stillen setup! Its the same size pipe, same MAF, the only difference is the post MAF tubes. Z1's post MAF tubes run about $112 but this way you don't have to drop $500+ cash right away for Stillen. You can spend $180 first, get the cold air like the Stillen's, and then buy the post tubes and only have $292 invested!!

Parts needed

2- 2.5" straight couplings
2- 90* bent couplings
2- 45* bent couplings
2- 2.5" to 3" couplings
2- 2.5" long, 2.5" piece of pipe for in between the 90* and the 2.5" to 3" coupling
2- 2.5" long, 3" piece of pipe for the K&N filter to bite onto the end
2- K&N RU-2820 filters
16- hose clamps
1- 36" long 2.5" pipe
Then later if you want, post MAF tubes.

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All done. 2.5", lots of silicone so less heat soak, 3" K&N filters, DIY CAI!

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Dyno day

280hp 226tq with true dual CBE, my 2.5" CAI with stock accordion MAF tubes, 18" rpf1's with HTR Zlll's 285, my AOS and no tune.

I was very happy with my dyno since the AFR was not what I was expecting!! I was for sure going to be lean but on average I want to say around 12.1 with some dips into the high 11's. It may not be ideal for a NA car but its safe! From here on out I only have plans for test pipes, tune, maybe a crank pulley, lighter flywheel, and lighter rotors. Should crack 300hp then.

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Custom hood vent and brake line cooling ducts :)

This is fukin scary :)

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Changed the oil, filter, tranny and diff fluid today. I also drained the AOS I made and I let it go for about 2000 miles. I was very surprised by the amount of oil! This bottle is about 2" in width you can see if that gives you an idea of just how much oil I kept from getting into the manifold and motor.

Also the rear diff fluid was only 6200 miles old. There were tons of metal shavings on the magnate and diff fluid always stinks to high heaven. I'm glad I got it changed out.

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Z1.

Complete long tube CAI

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Installed long tube headers in about 4-5 hrs yesterday. It sucked! I had rasp with the no resonator top speed CBE when it was cold so I added 18" vibrant ones. The rasp was gone and it sounded way nicer but very quite in my ears. Now with the long tubes the rasp is back louder than before and it doesn't go away once warm. The volume is also a lot louder. I'm thinking about doing 12" resonators also to maybe quite it down but to delete some rasp. We'll see because I'm not sure where they'll fit and I don't really want to add weight.

Speaking of weight I went to a new scale in my new city. I was 3101 lbs with 10 dots on the gauge. Fully fueled like the other weights I guess to be around 3147 lbs. when I go drag racing I should be as low as 3067 lbs at 1/4 tank. one day maybe ill do a lighter flywheel, pulleys, and 2 piece rotors for more weight.

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Thats the first DIY hood vent i've seen. It looks very clean. Same with the air ducts. How come you didn't run the air ducts thru the fangs so you didn't have to drill into the bumper?

I don't have fangs. It would of also been messy and not attached to well with the grates of the grill. These also are the cheapest way I wanted to attach hose to and with the least amount of bends.


So I'm making my own camber/toe bolt lockout kit. The 10.9 bolts can be bought at autozone or advanced auto for like $2 each and the t6061 plates can be made super cheap with a simple hole drilled in the middle that needs to sit in between the grooves on the sub frame (1.33-1.34"). My question is if I install now what will my camber do? Using a level pressed up against my tires (to long to go rim to rim of the wheel which would be a more accurate number) and my iPhone sitting flush against the level, my camber is -1.9 drivers and -1.4 passenger. Any idea if ill go more camber one way or the other?

FYI front is drivers side -0.5 and passenger is -0.8 so it seems like it works as everything seems factory spec since I'm all stock.

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Well I just measured toe. Not ideal, 1. Because I used a tape measure and 2. The only way to measure was not in the middle of the wheel. I got only about 1/4 way up the tire. However I did get a rear measurement of about 68 1.5/16th and a front measurement of 68. Therefore the rear tires are toed in 1.5/16th of an inch. That's factory yes?

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Well I'm inpatient so I decided to see what would change by installing the toe bolts. *To my surprise the numbers didn't do what I was thinking they'd do. *




Before install...
Driver camber -1.9
Passenger cam -1.4
Rear toe 0.094"




After install
Driver camber -1.8
Passenger cam -1.3
Rear toe 0.094"




Basically nothing happened which is awesome! *Because 1. I don't need to take them off and 2. Everything's in spec. *




Now I was scared because first I just installed the passenger side and measured and the toe was at 0.25" which is out of spec. *I thought "o great, after the drivers side ill be 0.5" or something. *But doing the drives pulled it right back where it was. *Now I did look at the factory marks and it looked like the eccentric bolts were straight up and down so they weren't giving any adjustment anyhow. *Later ill tackle the camber bolts.




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Well I just finished. Total about $9 since I bought 4 more nuts since these nuts aren't lock nuts like the OEM ones are, so I doubled them up. The camber is now, drivers side -1.7 and passenger -1.2. So by adding the locket kit I made, I lost -0.2 camber on both sides which is fine till i get the arms because its still within spec and better for not eating up tires. Overall goal will be -2 to -1.5 so the arms should be pretty close in length if I go -1.5. Any suggestions for street and track rear camber?

The final toe is 0.125. Again within factory spec but that's the max amount of toe (1/8th"). I guess at this point I need to install the swifts and check again down the road once they settle. Fingers crossed I only need to buy camber arms.

PS, the exhaust didn't fit after i installed resonators so I made some slits in the pipe to bend it in the directions I needed and then welded the cuts. I only had regular mig wire so hence the black exhaust paint to protect from rusting.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps921f84cc.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps538d4b67.jpg

Is that a titanium exhaust wrap? looks nice!

Yes it is. It's like silk. Very easy to wrap with and you don't have to get it wet. Way better than the regular fiberglass stuff.

Decided to change my exhaust now for the 4th and final time!!

My exhaust started off as a top speed CBE with no resonators true dual system.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps9b54a3da.jpg

It was pretty loud, very deep, and put a smily on my face every time I drove! It was however ever so slightly raspy when it was cold so I decided to add 18" resonators to it in the two straight mid pipes. With the resonators it got very quite, a little deeper, and ZERO RASP!!

I knew at some point though I was going with test pipes or LTH's! Once I got LTH the car was louder than ever before! But OMG the rasp!!!! It sounded horrible. So I decided to install some Helmholtz resonators that motordyne uses. Helmholtz's can actually add HP because of their design over inline resonators with scavenging. I installed them right were the x pipe bolts to the header. Once again I lost all my volume but I only lost about 90% of the rasp.

The last modification I was planning on removing the muffler and the 18" resonators and straight piping it with 2 more Helmholtz welded at the back where motordyne has his installed because they seemed to work so well before. First though I wanted to see how it sounded with taking baby steps. So I cut off the muffler and straight piped it from the 18" resonators back using the top speed exhaust tips. We'll this was all I needed and I don't want to mess it up by going further! The volume is louder than ever before!!!! Omg its loud! But there is zero rasp now, zero drone, just deep heavy kinda V8 sounding/drag bike motorcycle sound. I wish it was a little more exotic but again I don't want to loose this volume and zero rasp/drone. Videos won't do it justice, wish everyone could take a ride haha.

Garage line sold me a "prototype" LTH that's identical to the eBay OBX header and 99% like a Fast Intentions LTH. The only difference really is the scavenging star in the FI collector.

I installed these headers after wrapping with DEI titanium wrap and the fitment was perfect. The bottom center nut is hard to get on with where the pipes are but let's face it, LTH's are a PITA to install!

First thing I noticed on start up was the rasp! It was horrible! So I welded in some Helmholtz resonators in the X pipe right where the X pipe bolts to the header. This amazingly cut about 90% of the rasp but also if I had to guess cut about 20 decibels of volume which I didn't like.

Next I cut off my mufflers and straight piped them. The muffler I had, had the pipes 90 degree bend into the mufflers then 90 degree bend again out to the tips. I didn't like that flow design plus I wanted my volume back. Now I might have one of the loudest exhausts but just sounds insanely mean with zero rasp and zero drone.

I still have no tune and running rich so power can be made from a tune! I'm just happy the car is rich and not lean. After 6000rpm the AFR drops to 11.9 :confused:. If we target 12.5 AFR maybe, that's going to be some nice added power there.

Peak power was 13hp and 17tq but mid range gained anywhere from 11-17hp and 18-19tq. 293hp 243tq.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps612c98ba.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps85dffdf0.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps65d85e9b.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps3096e23d.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psa0643479.jpg

Just ordered everything for a DIY diff cooler kit. The gtm is $1300! This is the same pump used and a good $900 saved :)

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psaa7855e5.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps6b4dbdee.jpg

Where the gauge will be installed to watch diff temps and pump on off switch.

Gauge installed.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps04b7518e.jpg

nice build dude! I live near westlake, have to check out the car some day!

New race weight, 3083 lbs fully fueled!! pretty happy about that. SCCA rules state you have to use a certain steel and size for a roll cage based off of vehicle weight without the driver and a empty gas tank. That means I'll be under 3000 lbs (2965 lbs) letting me use thinner/lighter steel. Still planning on getting 2 piece rotors all around and the JWT flywheel. Since that's only about 51.5 lbs I'm still looking for another 31.5 lbs to get under 3000 lbs fully fueled.

FYI, the 3000 lbs is with full fluids, with driver and safety gear, with the cage already in it.

If you're saying the car as it sits is @ ~3080 with driver and a full tank, i'm calling you a liar or your scales aren't calibrated worth a damn.

Funny, says without to me

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psd1a9ef92.jpg

Also good enough for these guys, good enough for me

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psdbe0d87e.jpg

****, you're right!

Dunno where I got it my head that it was otherwise. I read the NASA GCR (or whatever the hell it's called) probably a thousand times.

Guess my cage is a tad over-engineered then, but that's alright.

I wouldn't trust a damn thing that the guy at Forged says, but that's just me (they have an extremely bad reputation as of late).

GL with build!

Great detailed build. Really like the DIY hood vent.