We'll I read SCCA so its a tie.

Works too! The heat that pours out of it is insane.

Changed the diff cooler one more time after I got everything and test fitted stuff. Ended up getting everything but the cooler from summit because every order I placed they then gave me a $20 off for the next purchase over $100. Hence the buying in small groups and not one big purchase haha.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psefb61f15.jpg

Great build Sy! Subbed!
:tiphat:

It has begun...

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps06811fc0.jpg

Just took my longest trip since the diff cooler gauge install. Drove about 45min (80mph) 35 highway and 10-15 min side streets. It was a cold 50 degrees out and the whole time on the highway the diff never stopped rising in temp. It got to 194* before I pulled off. I'm going to have to take a longer trip to see if it goes higher. Interesting to see at such a low temp outside the diff gets so hot. I can't imagine a hot summer day on a race track. No wonder people don't like the OEM vlsd! If you could keep the diff temp at a constant lower temp I bet it performs well-er haha.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps19044622.jpg

All done.

So it was 34* out tonight but just driving again on the highway at 75 I was able to get the diff fluid up to 184*. I then hit the diff pump for the first time. Within 30 seconds it dropped to 160*. But it took another 9 minutes and 30 seconds to finish and reach its final temp of 144*. I was hoping for a cooler temp but I guess ill take it.

The reason why I was hoping for more was I know people have said their diff temp can reach 300* on the track. With only a 40* drop from this test means on the track the diff fluid might still reach 260*. I was hoping to go no more than 240* so the diff fluid wouldn't start to sheer off and hopefully the OEM VLSD could still do its job by keeping its temp within a good operating temp. I guess only time will tell now what happens. 4 months of winter to go!


Diff finished


Pics...

Pump and lines

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps93c1ffe6.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps8706a266.jpg

Cooler with no scoop yet

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc4f51eeb.jpg

Notched out arm incase diff flexes to much.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps331bb1ff.jpg

Fill hole

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psa3e133de.jpg

Scoop/cage getting painted. Extremely strong so wind can't move it at high speed.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps969133ba.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps4fe57b7e.jpg

Always nice to have this kind of data, love it!

Christmas time! Beautiful parts. SPC my *** haha.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps37bfdd32.jpg

Yeah baby! Winter OEM nissan maxima wheels in a 18x7.5 +40. A nice retract of 63mm from my summer 18x10.5 +15's haha. Do they make a 63mm spacer haha?

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psccee737d.jpg

So it wasn't -7 outside today so I installed some used swift springs, SPL traction and camber arms. What a PITA! Normally lowering springs you can install with no spring collapser. But the swifts needed collapsed like 3" before I could start the nut. You ever try to compress a 10Kg spring with hand tools!! There must be a reason for this, talk about preload!

Anyways the initial drive was pretty shocking, but not after seeing camber numbers. Still body roll but you just barley touch the steering wheel and it whips into the other lane! On the track this thing is going to just dive into a corner like crazy! Initial lowering was...


BEFORE ---------------- AFTER
FL- 27.50" ------------- 26.625"= -0.875"
FR- 27.50" ------------- 26.50"= -1.0"
RL- 27.9375" ---------- 27.00"= -0.9375"
RR- 27.75" ------------ 26.9375= -0.8125"

I thought for used swifts the lowing would be more. I guess I'll have to wait and see if it settles more. My car is pretty light though so maybe that's why it sits higher. I checked camber too with my iPhone and toe with a tape measure and...

Before ------------------- After
FL/. -0.5 ---------------- -2.1
FR/. -0.8 ---------------- -1.6
RL/. -1.7 ---------------- -2.0
RR/. -1.2 ---------------- -2.1
Front Toe-
Rear Toe- in 0.125" ------------- Toe- in 0.59"

I may try again to align myself but its a pretty big PITA! If the traction arms can't mess with toe, ill make more toe plates but instead of drilling the hole center, I'll offset it to give more toe to get to zero.

Its a PITA with an impact. Easier but still slow.

First time i had to use a breaker bar over my 1/2" socket! I have a 500tq gun but the compressors at my moms. So turn by turn with me standing on the spring and collapsers i got it done. Nice leg and arm workout :tup:

2013 sport build
 

Not sure if this is correct but arent swift springs already "preloaded" and dont require settling in?

Ps love the swift and spl setup

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, i am unfamiliar with how traction arms work - do they replace the need for new toe bolts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This looks nasty. why did you cut the brace like this?

Any spring will settle some. Preloaded means once installed the springs tight. Unloaded you can hold the strut in your hand and move the spring around. I'm sure the OEM is tight too since its compressed about an inch under the top hat, but the swifts 10kg vs 7 something OEM.

Still figuring that out.

Why? Why not? Its a little slit, nbd.

Nice build my friend! Im thinking on buy the same wheels enkie rpf01 but 18x9.5 & 18x10.5 +15 all arround :)

Nice build
 

I'm really digging your DIY hood man. Care to pm me sole details and measurements and grill used? Thanks:tup:

Selling these! Please buy! +15 in the fronts I think is a bad call. Check out my pics. You can see its already passed the fenders. Another 15mm I think will look bad.

Not really much to say. The measurements are what contours underneath the hood. Look under it and you'll see pretty much where to go.

Let the porting begin!!

you should replace the stock diff cover with a finned diff cover. that should also help a little.

If I got one for free I would. It'd be nice to drive it and see what the temps are, then change it and drive again. I don't think I've seen a back to back like that. If it didn't work and I paid that money and labor I'd cry haha.

Did you get around to installing the SPL rear diff bushings yet?

Yep. Biggest ******* pain ever! Used a bolt in the rear bushing and a plate on the other side with a nut and a 3 foot breaker bar on my 1/2" drive to suck the rear bushing into the subframe after it was in the freezer for a week. Took hours I think (lost all sense of time) mm by mm because every turn was like turning a few hundred pounds. Not to mention all by myself 3 feet off the ground and that god damn diff weighs 100 lbs! O and up and down, up and down to set the rear brake so I could take off and tighten the axle bolts and drive shaft bolts.

I hear and feel zero difference (but very loud exhaust). I'm glad they're there though because the OEM stuff is very soft. The whiteline rear bushing being poly will be a breeze to install!

Glad to hear you got them installed. I know every DIY I ready shows its a huge PITA to change these things out. So your saying that you hear no difference in NVH cause of your loud exhaust? You do feel a performance difference right? Such as reduction of wheel hop (if you were getting any in the first place)? Just an expensive and intense mod if your not really feeling any difference over oem. Were your oem bushings blown btw? Thanks

Yep. I may hear a little something at times like a gear whine but you listen and then it's not there. Or a rattle but then it's gone right away. My exhaust is quite in 6th at like 45mph and I hear nothing different.

No performance diff. My bushings were only 8k old though. I never had wheel hop or anything. Been on 285/35/18 HTR z3's from day one if that means anything. They don't hook real well in a drag race so maybe that's why, they just slip instead of grip.

It was but how would I know till I tried? At least I don't have to wait around now for the OEM to blow at the track.

Ok just curious cause I was debating about this mod in my G, but my oem rear diff bushings aren't blown and this mod like I stated is very labor intensive/expensive to do. Especially if there is no significant improvement. But since my oem bushings aren't blown yet then I probably shouldn't replace until they are. Just wanted to get your take on the solids too see if they were too aggressive for a street car. Do you DD your car at all or is it just straight track? Thanks again

After MONTHS of trying to figure out who was the member that made a DIY CAI....FINALLY!!... ok heres my questions, What Diameter is Z1 Post maf tubes not sure if they're 3 or 2.5"?? Also using the stock Air Box MAF location tube and having 3" in diameter before and after of course may require a tune but is there any gain with going 3" or sticking with a 2.5" diameter is a better option??

DD. I have a set of whitelines till you're ready. $80.

They fit a 2.5" OD pipe. So their ID is probably 2.65".

It shouldn't need tuned since the car will add fuel based off the MAF in the smaller tube. Will 3" add power? Idk. I'm boring out the TB's, manifold and lower runnings to increase air and hopefully power so maybe it will.

'ppreciate the input :tup:

First exhaust sounds.

Hope your speakers are better than my ipad because its way deeper and better in person. Hook it up to a tv.

Cold start

370z custom exhaust cold start - YouTube

Hot start and rev to 3k, 4k, 5k.

370z custom exhaust hot start up - YouTube

Quarter work, no fun.

^ ouch.... That's going to take a lot of time and patience.

I'm taking it off. Going really fast actually.

Why are you cutting off the quarter panel? Did somebody hit you?