Nissan 370Z Forum - 2013 sport build

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2013 sport build

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pszinrdjsq.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...ml#post2792962

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...ood-vents.html

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...te-thread.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...o-results.html

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...-bolt-kit.html

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...yone-post.html

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...night-day.html

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...installed.html

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ne-filter.html

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...-diffuser.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...1-diy-cai.html

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...fferences.html

http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/...-z-rpf1-s.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...-dual-cbe.html

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...ml#post2713426

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To date 1/14

Weighed stock, full tank 3361 lbs

1. GTR start button
2. GTR dome light covers
3. LED DTRL hooked up all the time; don't turn off with headlights turning on
4. Gutted trunk, engine covers, TB coolant hoses, baby seat bracket, drivers side fuse box thing, trunk sound deadening, about 60lbs so far
5. Magnetic oil drain plug
6. Oil changed at 20 miles after hard break in with dino oil
7. Pura long filter
8. Moved windshield washer bottle to trunk, 3/4 gallon Devils Own bottle
9. Installed my own AOS
10. Z1 SS premium brake lines
11. Rbf600 fluid, brakes and clutch
12. TopSpeed true dual CBE
13. Changed oil second time 1127 miles, Redline 5w-30 full synthetic
14. OEM chin spoiler relocated

Weighed in at 3280 full tank

1. RPF1's 18x9.5+45, 18x10.5+15
2. HTR z3 255/285
3. Z1 20mm front bolt on spacers
4. More sound deadening and panels removed
5. 11lbs Deka battery
6. Installed 18" resonators to delete cold start rasp
7. My own CAI like the Stillen
8. Whiteline front sway bar
9. Hood vent mod
10. Brake duct cooling lines
11. More gutting
12. Made my own rear camber and toe bolt lockout kit
13. Color matched brake duct cooling inlets
14. Blacked out lower lip
15. Z1 post MAF tubes
16. Redline mt-85 tranny fluid
17. Redline 75w90 diff fluid

New scale, 3101 lbs with 10 dots on the gauge. Fully fueled should be 3147 lbs

1. Long tube headers
2. Thermal wrapped long tubes and Y pipe
3. More gutting
4. New CBE, straight pipe axle back
5. Removed all sound deadening
6. Made custom switch board where center glove box used to be

New race form weight 3083 lbs! Still some to go.

1. Finished diff cooler gauge install
2. Yaw sensor kill switch
3. Started deleting wires that are unnecessary

Weight to be seen.

1. Finished diff cooler install
2. Swift spec-r front spring, swift 65mm/6" 10k rear spring
3. SPL diff bushings
4. SPL camber arms
5. SPL traction arms
6. SPL mid links

update 5/13/15,
313HP/266TQ 5th gear SAE

Engine----
LTH---------OBX, Done
CAI---------3" Mine, Done
AOS---------Mine, Done
PnP TB, upper and lower mani-------Mine, Done
Tune----------Covert, Done
Engine mounts---------Done
Oil cooler---------Mine, Done
PS cooler---------$
CBE coming out the side skirt-------Done

Drive----
Rear diff cooler--------Mine, Done
Clutch--------$
Flywheel--------$
SPL diff bushings--------Done
Drop Eng. tranny mount--------Done
Redline diff fluid---------Done
Redline tranny fluid--------Done
Clutch slave cylinder--------$

Suspension----
Stance 2 way coilovers------18k/8k, Done
SPL toe links------Done
SPL traction arms--------Done
SPL rear chamber arms-------Done
Hotckins front sway bar------Done
SPL front lower bushing-----$
SPL front impact bushing------$
SPL camber arms front-------Done
SPL rear knuckle bushings------Done
SPL front end links-------Done
Traction and yaw kill switch------Done

Brakes-----
Z1 SS brake lines------Done
Front brake cooling ducts------Done
Rear brake cooling ducts------Done
Rbf600 fluid-------Done
2 piece front rotors------Done
2 piece rear rotors-------Done
Xp12------Done
Xp10-------Done

Chassis
Roll cage--------Done

Aero
Front splitter-----Mine, Done
Canards------Mine, Done
GT wing------APR GT250, Done
Rear diffuser--------Done

Wheels/tires
RPF1's 18x10.5 +15/-5 (Z1 20mm spacer), 285/35/18------Done

Safety
FIA seat------Done
brackets-----Planted, Done
belt------Done
Hans------Done

Misc.
11lbs battery------Deka, Done
moved washer bottle-------Done
Fuel tank mod-------Done

i wanted to install my AOS but as i started to i knew i had to move the windshield washer fluid bottle. so i cut the wires to the plug and added length. then i hid them and the hose running the fluid to the spray nozzles through the rubber grommet into the cab. then i ran them to the trunk following wires that were already there so they are all hidden and out of sight. i just need to drill and tap the bottle and put a fitting on it to match the OEM pump with a hose. its like a 1/2 ID hose i'll need.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psd901e802.jpg

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now i can install the AOS. i mounted it out of the engine bay since i believe most of what people catch in their catch cans is water! it looks like its all oil but its not. going from ambient temp to 200* back to ambient over and over causes a lot of condensation in a hollow big metal can. out of the engine bay the only temp swings will be a couple of degrees. this might also help with power since the manifold sucks hot dirty oil vapor into the engine from the PCV's. having the hot air go out of the engine where the outside air will hit it and cool the AOS down, the air returning to the manifold will be much cooler.

FYI, the reason i call it an AOS is because its not just a catch can. there is internal baffling that separates the oil from the air. at the bottom of the AOS is a hose with a plug that you just pull when you do an oil change and everything in the AOS will come on out. if need be you can also just pull the AOS off and break it apart to clean it real good.

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http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...olimit/AOS.jpg

So on eBay there are 4 more titanium looking dual cbe's, oem style, no resonators, true X pipe, 63mm OD. I got it for $425 shipped (which was surprising since the box was so big it must have been $100 to ship) because they said the X pipe was messed up. Well I was able to bend it out more 3/4" to fit the OEM cats but the flanges were then slightly twisted and didn't line up. So i cut the flanges about 2" in and had some SS 2.5" ID pipe that I used as a slip joint coupling. I also had to do it to one of the mid pipes as it was off. I also needed to add some washers for equal sitting of the tips but over all its perfect now and for $425 it's unbeatable! Me buying just the pipe, flanges, mufflers etc I would of been at $400 plus time to weld, make bends, go through sawzall blades etc. if anyone's interested there are more left. I'd highly recommend take it to a muffler shop so they can do some slight bends to make it fit perfect.

Over all everything else is very nice. I couldn't have tig welded it any better, it's true 304SS, it doesn't rub or hit anything, the inside flanges are ground down for smooth flow, and I still have the same resonators FI uses if its to raspy or loud. No real driving yet or pics. Ill post later.

After first drive...pretty shocked. Vids of any CBE suck, i don't care what camera you have or what sound equipment you got. They all blow. Hearing this in person I'm pretty blown away so far. It's extremely deep, no rasp, no drone in the 2-3k range (still stock cats which is probably why), and driving in 6th up to 2k its dead quite. Like stock quite! But o lord when you punch it, its loud and sounds amazing! When you start the car cold however when the motor is revving to 2k, its loud. Loud enough to wake the neighbors. But after a minute and you hit idle its quite again. The tips sit out about a 1.5" which im ok with becuase you either get a black bumper with flush tips, or no black bumper with extended tips. im ok with extended leaving my bumper alone. Overall on a 0-10 scale I give this a 9-10 for me because I like loud and deep and didn't mind the work. Again you can drive around quite if you want to! I think others will give it a negative since I don't think even a perfect one with a Y pipe will fit as well as I was able too therefore people are going to give it negative feedback because of the fitting issues.

As far as normal fitment...it doesn't scrape the ground, the pipes are high up and don't even come down below the level of the under car. The back muffle flanges to me even sit higher than the stock flanges and they still don't hit the rear cross brace bars. I'm pretty happy. Best $425 I've spent on a part while others are getting $&#%*^ at $1000 plus.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps3bfdd82a.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps5a2c57db.jpg

Slip joint I made. Didn't have my tig welder or SS wire so I just used exhaust paint.

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Finished washer fluid bottle relocation. Now plenty of room for brake cooling duct lines :)

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc0d52129.jpg

I'm impressed...sub'd

^^^thanks!

Changed my oil second time today, Redline 5w-30 full synthetic :happydance:. Motor has 1124 miles now. Motors fully broken in and I'm glad its broken in right and hard! There was no oil loss between 20 and 1124 miles and my AOS has very little oil in it. In the pic of the caught AOS oil that's not all oil. I cut a old tire shine bottle open and there was still some liquid in the bottle. I'd say after about 1100 miles I got about a teaspoon of oil (1/2 of what you see). Compared to my 13 ram hemi its about 10 times less for the same amount of miles driven! Also my magnetic drain plug picked up some nice very very fine metal shavings. Glad I installed that little guy.

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Here's the hemi at 1000 miles

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my new RPF1's. I went with a 18x9.5 +45 front and 18x10.5 +15 rear.

What I'm super stoked about is weight!! Online I see the OEM 19's weight (not 100% sure about the 2013's) 23.2 front and 23.8 rear. My new wheels are 17.4 front and 19.05 rear says Enkie. Also, OEM tires are 29 front and 33 rear. My new tires just for DD and had some good reviews are Sumitomo HTR Z3's which in Tireracks shootout beat the Hancook V12's that seem popular around here. They are 27.84 front and 29.08 rear (my weight). I got 255/40 and 285/35. Just a tad wider and shorter than OEM but they were really cheap. Also because I got black wheels I went with Gorilla black lug nuts. They are a lot smaller so I should save weight there too. I'm also not putting my OEM tire sensors back so again more weight savings.

So total weight loss of unsprung weight should be about 32.5 lbs that I know of so far; 13.6 front and 18.9 rear not including sensors, lugs or new 20mm front spacers.

Now I did weigh the OEM rear wheel and tire (forget the front) and got 57.5 pounds. So online might be wrong. Either way I know ill lose over 20 pounds and that's key since most of the weight is on the rear wheels. I'm not one to believe 1 lbs of unsprung weight equals 20 lbs of sprung weight but here's to hoping for a 400 lbs diet :bowrofl:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psaae94421.jpg

Almost there!

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps1584d28a.jpg

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Very nice build thus far...

Ok wheels are in and installed! The backs fit perfect. There is tons of room and its a perfect look too on the stock setup and specs. I know once I lower ill go more negative camber so it won't look so flush but that's the price you pay I guess for better handling.

The fronts are also pretty good at the moment. I think they'll look better with more negative camber again when I lower. Right now they are sticking out a little to much for my liking.

The rear needed no spacer obviously and its good at +15 offset. The fronts I went with the 20mm Z1 bolt on spacer. Overall that makes it +25 offset. I could have had the 15mm longer studs spacer work but I would of had almost no clearance with the caliper and frankly I didn't want to do the work! Also I don't like the idea of longer studs. Seems to easy to break being so long. The bolt ons were much easier and there is lots of clearance for bigger tires one day.

I did also have to get gorilla wheel rings so the wheels have a perfect fit to the hub centric rotors and spacers. I needed a 66.06 ID, 73mm OD rings.

The tires also seem pretty nice. Doesn't seem as easy to spin the back wheels which is a good thing since that means traction. They're only 10mm more than stock but since they're on a 10.5" wheel instead of a 10" wheel it might be more than just 10mm wider. At a 300 wear rating they also seem pretty sicky compared to the 140 of the stock RE050A's. They are also A LOT QUITER than the OEM tires! So far I think they will be a very nice DD tire!

Overall...
RPF1 18x9.5 +25, 255/40 HTR Zlll, Z1 hub centric bolt on 20mm spacer
RPF1 18x10.5 +15, 285/35 HTR Zlll
Gorilla hub centric rings 66.06mm ID, 73mm OD
Gorilla chrome black lugs

Lost 5.4lbs for each front wheel/tire including everything down to the lugs
Lost 8.7lbs for each rear wheel/tire including everything down to the lugs

Don't mind the silver. Couldn't get a black in any offset! Plasti dip to the rescue! Better pics later of the black...

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps5a2139dc.jpg

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Thanks. Now that my cars dry on the inside! :shakes head: