Nissan 370Z Forum - 2013 sport build

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Thanks.

Decided to do a lightweight battery. Went with a etx15l which is basically a odyssey pc680, 11lbs. I highly doubt the Braille p2015 puts out what it says it puts out and everyone says Deka makes the brallies anyways. I ran that battery here in ohio for 2 years without issue. Also if you look at Dekas sheets, every ETX battery you find will have identical specs at any store with the same part number! I ended up buying a etx15l from autozone with a Duralast sticker on it.

I had to do a little work to get it to fit right but I had all the stuff so no big deal. I replaced the OEM tray with a lightweight 1/8th peice of aluminium, made 2 paper thin steel tubes to increase the height so the terminals would be at OEM height, and had to buy 2 steel cylinders so the OEM rings had something to fit around as a terminal. The etx batteries don't come with the right kind of terminal top like the OEM battery has. Last I relocated the negative ground wire which worked out perfect because there was a bracket there with the same size holes. Just a simple bolt down. The bracket was holding 2 relays so I just zip tied them to some wires.

All in all I'd guess I saved around 22lbs.

Since this is what drag racing mode looks like, I'm off to the scales tomorrow. Last time I was there I weighed 3280 with a full tank of gas which was down from 3361 bone stock and a full tank. This time I have the lighter wheels and tires, battery, seat removed, more sound deadening and more body panels. I always go with a full tank filled up 1 street away. Since I know what a gallon of gas weighs, its easy to guess how much fuel is out of the tank by counting the dots. Fingers crossed its a good number!

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Today i installed some 18" resonators because when my exhaust is really cold above 4k i hear some rasp i hate. also there was some gargling on down shifting. there is no noise at all now! sounds way better! but its very quite now! im hoping the test pipes really kick it back up in loudness. also im making my own cai :)

So to update this I have all the parts needed but the filters. I ended up getting what you see in the pics. I'm going to cut my MAF sensors off the stock air boxes as its the same ID as the Stillen's. the couplings provide the bends needed and it will sit just like them.

Now doing this I've spent about $110 on the 6 couplings and clamps. I could save more if I bought a lot of each item and I was thinking about eliminating the 90* couplings as people on eBay sell pipe in a 90* bend. I'd just give them the length I needed since the filter end is shorter than the MAF section. The k&N filters that Stillen uses are $70 shipped from the cheapest place I could find online. So people out there doing drop in's for around $70, or whatever the drop in's cost, for $110 more you now have a Stillen setup! Its the same size pipe, same MAF, the only difference is the post MAF tubes. Z1's post MAF tubes run about $112 but this way you don't have to drop $500+ cash right away for Stillen. You can spend $180 first, get the cold air like the Stillen's, and then buy the post tubes and only have $292 invested!!

Parts needed

2- 2.5" straight couplings
2- 90* bent couplings
2- 45* bent couplings
2- 2.5" to 3" couplings
2- 2.5" long, 2.5" piece of pipe for in between the 90* and the 2.5" to 3" coupling
2- 2.5" long, 3" piece of pipe for the K&N filter to bite onto the end
2- K&N RU-2820 filters
16- hose clamps
1- 36" long 2.5" pipe
Then later if you want, post MAF tubes.

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Dyno day

280hp 226tq with true dual CBE, my 2.5" CAI with stock accordion MAF tubes, 18" rpf1's with HTR Zlll's 285, my AOS and no tune.

I was very happy with my dyno since the AFR was not what I was expecting!! I was for sure going to be lean but on average I want to say around 12.1 with some dips into the high 11's. It may not be ideal for a NA car but its safe! From here on out I only have plans for test pipes, tune, maybe a crank pulley, lighter flywheel, and lighter rotors. Should crack 300hp then.

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Custom hood vent and brake line cooling ducts :)

This is fukin scary :)

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Changed the oil, filter, tranny and diff fluid today. I also drained the AOS I made and I let it go for about 2000 miles. I was very surprised by the amount of oil! This bottle is about 2" in width you can see if that gives you an idea of just how much oil I kept from getting into the manifold and motor.

Also the rear diff fluid was only 6200 miles old. There were tons of metal shavings on the magnate and diff fluid always stinks to high heaven. I'm glad I got it changed out.

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Installed long tube headers in about 4-5 hrs yesterday. It sucked! I had rasp with the no resonator top speed CBE when it was cold so I added 18" vibrant ones. The rasp was gone and it sounded way nicer but very quite in my ears. Now with the long tubes the rasp is back louder than before and it doesn't go away once warm. The volume is also a lot louder. I'm thinking about doing 12" resonators also to maybe quite it down but to delete some rasp. We'll see because I'm not sure where they'll fit and I don't really want to add weight.

Speaking of weight I went to a new scale in my new city. I was 3101 lbs with 10 dots on the gauge. Fully fueled like the other weights I guess to be around 3147 lbs. when I go drag racing I should be as low as 3067 lbs at 1/4 tank. one day maybe ill do a lighter flywheel, pulleys, and 2 piece rotors for more weight.

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Thats the first DIY hood vent i've seen. It looks very clean. Same with the air ducts. How come you didn't run the air ducts thru the fangs so you didn't have to drill into the bumper?

I don't have fangs. It would of also been messy and not attached to well with the grates of the grill. These also are the cheapest way I wanted to attach hose to and with the least amount of bends.

So I'm making my own camber/toe bolt lockout kit. The 10.9 bolts can be bought at autozone or advanced auto for like $2 each and the t6061 plates can be made super cheap with a simple hole drilled in the middle that needs to sit in between the grooves on the sub frame (1.33-1.34"). My question is if I install now what will my camber do? Using a level pressed up against my tires (to long to go rim to rim of the wheel which would be a more accurate number) and my iPhone sitting flush against the level, my camber is -1.9 drivers and -1.4 passenger. Any idea if ill go more camber one way or the other?

FYI front is drivers side -0.5 and passenger is -0.8 so it seems like it works as everything seems factory spec since I'm all stock.

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Well I just measured toe. Not ideal, 1. Because I used a tape measure and 2. The only way to measure was not in the middle of the wheel. I got only about 1/4 way up the tire. However I did get a rear measurement of about 68 1.5/16th and a front measurement of 68. Therefore the rear tires are toed in 1.5/16th of an inch. That's factory yes?

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Well I'm inpatient so I decided to see what would change by installing the toe bolts. *To my surprise the numbers didn't do what I was thinking they'd do. *

Before install...
Driver camber -1.9
Passenger cam -1.4
Rear toe 0.094"

After install
Driver camber -1.8
Passenger cam -1.3
Rear toe 0.094"

Basically nothing happened which is awesome! *Because 1. I don't need to take them off and 2. Everything's in spec. *

Now I was scared because first I just installed the passenger side and measured and the toe was at 0.25" which is out of spec. *I thought "o great, after the drivers side ill be 0.5" or something. *But doing the drives pulled it right back where it was. *Now I did look at the factory marks and it looked like the eccentric bolts were straight up and down so they weren't giving any adjustment anyhow. *Later ill tackle the camber bolts.

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Well I just finished. Total about $9 since I bought 4 more nuts since these nuts aren't lock nuts like the OEM ones are, so I doubled them up. The camber is now, drivers side -1.7 and passenger -1.2. So by adding the locket kit I made, I lost -0.2 camber on both sides which is fine till i get the arms because its still within spec and better for not eating up tires. Overall goal will be -2 to -1.5 so the arms should be pretty close in length if I go -1.5. Any suggestions for street and track rear camber?

The final toe is 0.125. Again within factory spec but that's the max amount of toe (1/8th"). I guess at this point I need to install the swifts and check again down the road once they settle. Fingers crossed I only need to buy camber arms.

PS, the exhaust didn't fit after i installed resonators so I made some slits in the pipe to bend it in the directions I needed and then welded the cuts. I only had regular mig wire so hence the black exhaust paint to protect from rusting.

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Is that a titanium exhaust wrap? looks nice!

Yes it is. It's like silk. Very easy to wrap with and you don't have to get it wet. Way better than the regular fiberglass stuff.

Decided to change my exhaust now for the 4th and final time!!

My exhaust started off as a top speed CBE with no resonators true dual system.

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It was pretty loud, very deep, and put a smily on my face every time I drove! It was however ever so slightly raspy when it was cold so I decided to add 18" resonators to it in the two straight mid pipes. With the resonators it got very quite, a little deeper, and ZERO RASP!!

I knew at some point though I was going with test pipes or LTH's! Once I got LTH the car was louder than ever before! But OMG the rasp!!!! It sounded horrible. So I decided to install some Helmholtz resonators that motordyne uses. Helmholtz's can actually add HP because of their design over inline resonators with scavenging. I installed them right were the x pipe bolts to the header. Once again I lost all my volume but I only lost about 90% of the rasp.

The last modification I was planning on removing the muffler and the 18" resonators and straight piping it with 2 more Helmholtz welded at the back where motordyne has his installed because they seemed to work so well before. First though I wanted to see how it sounded with taking baby steps. So I cut off the muffler and straight piped it from the 18" resonators back using the top speed exhaust tips. We'll this was all I needed and I don't want to mess it up by going further! The volume is louder than ever before!!!! Omg its loud! But there is zero rasp now, zero drone, just deep heavy kinda V8 sounding/drag bike motorcycle sound. I wish it was a little more exotic but again I don't want to loose this volume and zero rasp/drone. Videos won't do it justice, wish everyone could take a ride haha.