If your going to track I swear by Carbotechs. Just swap them out. Last time I was at the track I saw a brand new Mustang ( not even a tag on it yet) slam into a newer BMW 5 series in the chicane due to brake failure. Course that's a high speed entry.

Yeah, I don't want that to be me. :icon17: I'd rather have pads that are overly suited for my abilities that I can grow into instead of the "stock" pads that have a limit.

Ballpark cost for a set of XP8 F/R's?


Also running ATE Super Blue fluid, decent for track or swap out for the Motul RB600?

Posi Quiets should go nowhere near the track, especially with our hot *** brakes.

I was 99% sure about this, but wanted the final word from you guys who do it regularly. :tiphat:

Something sintered. Carbotech, CL, Ferodo, etc.

the CL RC6's are quite hoss, but it's probably easier and cheaper to get the XP8's/10s.

I'd read that most folks like 10 on front and 8 on rear for our car.

If you can ignore the noise and dust, you could just run them full time. The RC6's wear quite slowly in my experience and you learn to block out the noise pretty quickly in return for the amazing braking performance.

Posi quiets are a NO NO on the track. Unless A) you have a few extra pair of clean shorts, B) like changing hot brake pads, or C) drive like Grandma.

I run Carbotech's on my track Z. As does our Shop G35, 370Z and the two of our employees who have 300zx's (one with a 370Z Sport Brake conversion and the other with Rotora's).

So thats +5 for Carbotechs. LOL.

I currently run XP 10F/8R. The 10's bite great but can overload the tires but is controllable pending what tires you run. If I had slicks I'd probably just go with 12's F. But I'll most likely stick to street tires in which I might just start running XP 8's all time. I'm still testing the waters. Taking all this weight off helps.

My XP's cost more cause I have to custom order for my AP BBK. But the rears last alot longer on. So that's a plus.

Which is what I was looking for from you guys, thanks! :tiphat:

Thanks! :tiphat:

XP10F + XP8R is the way to go for the Carbotechs, at least on the stock Sport setup. 8/8 gives too much ice mode, whereas 10/8 feels pretty good. They've very grabby so it'll take a little getting used to. FWIW I've switched from Carbotech to CL RC6/RC5+. The Carbotechs worked fine on the track on my good weekends, I just switched as part of debugging my long-term rotor destruction problems. First time I'll finally get to track-test the CL setup will now be Jan 26/27, but so far in non-track testing they've been pretty awesome.

Yeah, I've done two track days and several autocrosses plus 5k or so street miles, and my rotors look practically new. This is on RC6 F/R. The pads also look fairly fresh... Kind of spooky.

/\ yup, will be switching out to 10/8 combo w/in the next year.

we run 8/8 combo all the time, no issues, can't hear any brake squealing since the exhaust is so loud, so therefore, if i can't hear it, then it must not be happening. ;)

I run project mu CR(club racer) both front and rear with no ice mode issues....

I'm glad I've never had a single issue of/ with ''Ice mode''.

That "ice mode" is highly dependent on a lot of factors I think, which is why it's hit and miss (or mostly miss, for some). That the track I hit the most has some ripply/bumpy/not-ideal pavement in some hard braking zones is probably a huge factor. Being a little light in the rear on weight distribution doesn't help either (and/or having a very stiff rear sway). Lack of cooling to the fronts and/or under-specced front pads relative to rear would contribute as well. Then of course I'm sure personal habits on how you use the pedal and how you set up the car's ... what's the right term? dynamic weight distribution? ... during certain braking sections will affect it as well.

damn bro I gotta see the car... Everytime I see it, its different lol

Sounds like Turn 1 @ TWS... lol my inner monologue was regularly "**** **** **** **** **** **** shiiiiiit! Wheew okay turn in..." So bumpy it's hard to slow down sometimes, even without brake fade or ice mode.

Yea, all tracks I've been to are smooth so I'll hopefully never experience that. Does CL makes pads for after market BBK's?

Definitely.

CL Brakes - Catalogue Auto

Bah their catalog is out of date.

Use this site: Essex - Essex Parts - Brake Pads

You can choose aftermarket calipers, then AP, and pick your model.

Edit: Also, you want 'Full Race' category and RC8 are rally pads, just FYI.

Thanks for the info. Repped

Yeah TWS is next on my list to conquer, but I've only done a few laps there. MSR-Houston is the ripply one I'm referring to (which has actually been great for being my primary learning track. Having the pavement be a bit unpredictable really teaches you to be smoother and feel things out better).

Spohn, when looking at your stock radiator, do you think it's possible to cut the condenser off? It looks like its held on only by some little brackets....

What say you?

I look at it briefly but I noticed the same thing. It's welded on but it looks as it can be cut off. There's definitely no way there connected fluid wise.

Final wire harness delete. I've clipped and pin backed all the deleted harness for a cleaner look

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...eanWire001.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...eanWire003.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...eanWire002.jpg


Also reinstalled my gauges on the mid brace bar. Still have to buy a aftermarket oil temp and volt gauge.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...eanWire007.jpg


http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...eanWire010.jpg

SPOHN.. i may need your help!

Sorry. I don't do gay.

I wanna pick up QTP electric cutouts. Since your been toying with wires alot lately, can install em together and run the wires neatly n all.

Yea sure. That's a awesome mod. Are you on a Mustang forum somewhere? Which one? I'd like to check out the aftermarket world for that car.

i browse them. not really sticking to any. They all seem quite a bit slower than this forum.

but the boss 302 QTP cutouts. I would get the wireless kit too.

The exhaust diff (sound) from open to closed is quite... ridiculously awesome.

:rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:

Does your car still start and run?

Spohn, God be with you if you ever decide to sale the car, lol. Looks awesome though!

Like a champ. Have to use the fobgina now.:tup:
Never selling. Track until the motor let goes then rebuild and go again.

me too

what does the dash weigh, about 75-100 lbs?

Me as well. Fobgina. I like it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Definitely 10+lbs. I've removed over 3lbs of just screws.:icon17: I tell you Mike with all this harness, heater core, blower, dash, and all the other things we've both done, this car is so nimble. Like absolutely no body roll. Like a motor on tires. Can't what to put my new clutch and light weight flywheel.

I remounted the fobgina to the left side of steering column in an area that is out of site but I can still reach in from outside and grab key fob quickly - works great

I can vouch - this works! :tup:

i still love "fobgina" as a word :bowrofl:

Did either of you guys do the NATS (Nissan Anti-Theft System) Disable thing in UpRev? I figure you're mostly talking about having removed all the other fob sensors (trunk, center, 2x windows). It's never been clear to me what the NATS Disable will actually do about the fob - whether that means you still use the fobgina but any Nissan fob, registered or not, works. Or whether NATS Disable means you can just wire up a Start button and not need a fob at all.

The way it was explained to me if you delete the Nats all you have to do is hit the start button and that's it. No fob anything. No one would really think to start your car just by hitting the start button. But I will be doing this when I get a chance to swing by Forged again. I'm about to relocate my button anyways.