How'd you handle the gaping hole under the cowl that feeds the HVAC blower? Pics?

I cut the raised section out to make it flush. I actually drilled out the spot welds then pulled it out. It also held on with sealant. Then I used a thin sheet of metal and bolted it it to the body while also using silicone to seal it from water. Going to go back and weld it shut one day. I believe I took pics. I'll see tonight when I get home.

Man, how'd you get in there to cut it without creating a huge mess with the electronics and whatnot that are right by the hole?

I need to cut it off, I'm just afraid I'll **** something up.

Unclip the plasti guard that's right there. This will crave a little more room. Not much but a enough. Use a air cutting saw. Can't go wrong.

on a side note, that shouldn't work, because the airflow release point on the hood is where there is a high pressure & turbulent zone in front of the windshield.

the low pressure is over the front of the hood or/and under the car . therefore the airflow will go mostly under of the car if you use that type of hood.
the hood vents has to be in the front of the hood up to the middle of it..

For mine, I just temporarily taped over the hole from both sides with some of that silver heat-reflective tape (same for the blower port on the upper passenger side). Not sure what I'll do later when I get back in there and gut the dash for good, etc.

Most in deed.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...psf6f6eb75.jpg

With a vent as pictured in my original post on a car. What does it do from your stand point?

Stolen...lol

This is what I will be doing with my door windows. Scroll down to post #55

E30 M3 M3T/Art Car build - Page 3

That looks like a pretty awesome way to handle the door window issue, yeah :)

Back on the hood stuff, so has anyone really figured out the best position for hood venting for cooling? A pair of vents on the sides but closer to the front? Basically just to the outside of the stock power steering pump and AC compressor locations?

Also need photos of what you did to the hard cooling lines and whatnot. ;)

Not done yet. But I made it simple buy cutting the hardline several inches from where it leaves the block. Block off the small port and will be extending the bigger port with heater hose up and away form the manifold with heat wrap also.

Just take the doors off and go Commando!!!!!!

That's my final plan. Then attach a 50cal

what thickness did you use?

Can't recall. I think 8mm

I like that. :thumbup:

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DIY BED LINER

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps17f6e25f.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...psdc793fed.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0f966e56.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...pse4b2c74d.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps20928723.jpg

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps297a34f1.jpg

GUTTED DOOR
NOT FINISHED
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps91e372d0.jpg

Does the coat help with road reduction and insulation or is it just a protection barrier?

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I'm sure it will help a little but care less about that part. Mostly to have grip for my feet and cover the seam sealer. Nothing special.

Ah I see

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Spohn you have WAY too much time on your hands!!!!!! lol

He's on a learning curve.:tiphat:

I'm starting to sense a love hate relationship between you too!

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I can't take complete credit for his knowledge b/c he Fvcks up alott.:hello:

How dare you say that? Don't make me divorce you.

You 2 better not be Coming Out of the Closet..? bahahahahaha

That was done last year! :rolleyes:

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don't need that e-brake... might also delete rear factory tower bracing and replace with a cross member mounted at top of each tower, connected to cage

Brake is coming out after I get more done. Just keeping it in so I can push the car around and stop it while the motor is out. So far as the tower that's going to when I have the rest of the full cage put in. Which is soon.

Are you saying that you can just cut this out?

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1373977534

Damm this car looks insane!!!! :)

I agree!

Yes. Cut that out and then add a roll bar up high in between the towers. It doesn't shave weight though. But makes a lot stronger.

My builder was talking about making a brace for the tops, never occurred to me that the lower section wasn't part of the main floor pan, but now that I actually look at the photos as well as the Courtesy Parts page, it's obvious that you can totally remove all of that if you're doing something aftermarket.

I might just have him cut that out.

Looks like those bigass bolts are the rear subframe bolts, correct? I don't want to pay him the labor of removing the rear subframe for this job, so I'll tell him to just cut off @ where the tabs meet the main structure and I'll remove those tabs and replace with big nuts and washers myself at a later date.

BTW sorry for ask but what mods that I need to have those whp ;)

You know what, if you cut that structure out, I think you'd probably need to brace to the floor with your own material since that area is where the subframe mounts....

I think seam-welding the existing metal might work better than all that, don't you? Just add in a relatively small brace between the tops for extra strength and call it a day?

I'd say not to cut it out...

from the Z33 having the strut bar style structure...to the Z34 having a invert style brace, I'd say only cut it if you plan on doing and extensive cage build.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1373997099