For what it's worth I have two track weekend (4 days) this season on my boosted performance single turbo kit. I have had no issues with oil or water temps at all (no different that prior to going FI). This is with a 34 row oil cooler and CSF radiator and stillen fascia. I also have an accusump to help keep oil pressure up since my home track utilizes a portion of the NASCAR banked oval and top end oil starvation is my biggest concern.

That's nice to hear. With single turbos and there mounted location heat is not a issue. How much boost/ HP you running.

hey spohn i ordered the 18G MHI kit aswell what spark plugs are recommended for this type of kit? If you can help me out or show me link to read up on this info?

Thanks.

NGK or HKS plugs. As long as there one step colder. The NGK plugs are the exact same ones that go into the GTR. Easier to find also.

So I pulled out my main AC unit today from under the dash. Oh my god what a bitch. I don't know if there's any other component on the car that requires so much work to remove. Anyways, now that the rest of the dash is in shambles and the steering wheel's off, etc, I was thinking about going ahead and replacing the steering wheel with aftermarket. I know you've already done that...

I assume we get to keep the control stalks for wipers/headlights/etc, and that the black plastic ring thingy holding a bunch of wires is all about position sensor / horn / airbag that I don't care about and can go. Any recommendations on a hub/wheel setup?

Most all hubs are great quality. As far as steering wheels I'd go with a smaller one. I think about 330mm. It's delivers better steering input. Like a go kart. And yes you get to keep all the stalks and such.

Yea, the crap behind the dash is a mess. But so worth IMO.

I was looking at NRG's site for hubs and such. So do you have to get the quick-release as well to make it all work, or can you mount the wheel directly to the hub? I don't feel like I need a quick-release on the car currently. Are there compatibility issues with different hubs + wheels?

You can mount directly to the hub.

The wheel won't be nearly as far rearward if you don't get an extension or a QR though.

Here's some photos.

Imagine not having the QR there spacing flat center hub of the wheel to the black hub coming off the steering column. It would be nearly two inches forward.

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/m...129_182121.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/m...129_182109.jpg

I was honestly a little surprised with how easy the install was. Took me less than 15 minutes to do mine.

I sit really close to my pedals so there's no way to get out (especially in a crises). Unless your that skinny. Which I'm not.

Do you have any photos of your engine bay, fully assembled, from right before you removed the engine?

yea new pics!

Yes. I have several. I just moved three weeks ago and my Internet wont be hooked up till tomorrow. Not sure why it has taken them so long. But I'll be back in business this weekend. I have a good bit of things to sell. Trust me, it has sucked.

Since you are actually tracking your car I would suggest not going with an NRG hub and wheel since those things are made for street cars. I would go with a works bell short hub and quick release. Works bell also makes a racing quick release that needs to be welded to the steering column. Then go with a sparco/omp/nardi steering wheel. I dont see the sense in gutting your car to build a "racecar" and then putting an ebay/street NRG quick release and steering wheel in your car.

Evasive motorsports sells the Works bell short up and quick release for 370z btw.

Eh? Why? What's the difference? My NRG short hub, QR, and spacer fit fine with no noticeable play on my 350Z.

Because they arent engineered to racing standards. Anyone else NRG would be fine on. But if you are going to the extent that you are ripping out your air conditioner and firewall to build a race car, then you should be using actual racing equipment not ebay parts. I would like to see ONE true race car with NRG product on it. (also works bell/sparco/omp make lighter stronger products than NRG)

Sounds like a silly brand bias. :)

Sorry, but this is pretty much ********.

The hubs and QR's are engineered to very very tight tolerances. I know because I have them.

The wheels are definitely cheap street stuff, I know because I have one.

I will be changing my wheel in the next 6-12 months, for sure, but the hub and QR, I don't see how it could possibly be made any more reliable or strong, or at least how it could possibly be enough better for me to care.

I have much more important stuff to blow money on than to have certain brand names with 'Engineered for racing' stamped on the box. Thanks tho.

EVAP removed. Fuel line will be heat wrapped. Exhaust leak finally discovered, had washer on the inside of the gasket. Don't ask how.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5580f519.jpg

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K&N Filters added to the intake side of the PCV
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Stock injectors
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Bosch EV14 725cc and pigtails
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NGK GTR plugs (one step colder), Gap set to 32
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d6ab19b.jpg
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This heater line will be modified and heat wrapped
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That PCV setup will make you run lean if you are still plumbing the output into the intake plenum.

Love it!


I capped all of them.

I don't think putting separate breathers on the valve cover intakes is going to affect much of anything on the other side. The other side will still be drawing from the crankcase (through a can I'd guess).

I hope you don't mean you capped all of your PCV system. The engine needs to breathe or you'll build up crankcase pressure and it will cause oil seal leaks (e.g. at the front and rear of the crank).

As far as the PCV system goes I have filters on the intake side. Then I will be running a oil catch can vented to atmosphere while the manifold will be capped off. These are just some progress pics. Trust me, I know what I'm doing. Lol. I might not run a OCC. just let it vent as is directly from the Check valve.

Yea...I capped off the bridge on the crankcase, and the one on the driver side. Keep the one on the passenger side going to the back of the intake manifold.

thought?

EDIT:

I'm NA

Air doesn't blow out of the outlet though, you have to put vacuum on it to draw it out.

That's why I said you'll run lean unless you plan on installing an electric vacuum pump to evacuate the crankcase.

I've tested this on my own car and confirmed that without vacuum on the PCV outlet, no air passes through the crankcase (other than blowby).

Well, if he were to vent both sides of the PCV system straight to atmosphere (through filters) and not use vacuum, it would *probably* work. I think the only downside there is that it's only the blowby pressure that will occasionally force a small amount of air out the breather side and/or PCV valves (whichever is least resistant). Thus pressure will be somewhat regulated and sane. But you won't really clean the ugly vapors out of the crankcase much either with no real flow or air exchange.

Running breathers on the intake side as pictured is fine, IMHO. It's really not much functional difference from the stock configuration where the intake air filters play the role of that breather (and as a bonus - sometimes there is flow reversal and/or backfire through that line - at least that won't be going into your intake). But on the other side, you should hook up vacuum through a catch can. This will actively draw negative pressure on the crankcase and keep fresh air coming in through the breathers to replace it. If you were to vent the catch can to air and cap off the vacuum, the catch can won't really do anything (you might as well be venting both sides to air as above).

After discussions with Sam at GTM there is absolutely nothing wrong with putting filters on the intake side and leaving the others side completely vented to atmosphere and using no catch can at all. That's my plan. Maybe put filters on them so nothing can go in the holes.

This is how I work
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Subframe Dropped
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OEM Bushings removed. Real PITA
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New SPL Bushings in the freezer to be installed tomorrow
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Brief Pics of windsplitter in progress

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Yeah I guess so long as that other side still has PCV valves on them, they should only flow outwards.

Man you are going all out with this, I love it. My favorite track Z by far! Keep it up. If I were to ever be able to do it this is how I would want to.

Looks great SPOHN ... is the windsplitter a modified APR Universal Kit ?

It's a material called Alumilite. Very strong, durable, and lite weight. Can be pi Jed up at most sign shops. I got a 4x8 sheet for $120. A lot of race teams use this material.

New SPL Solid Subframe Bushing and Diff Bushing

I didn't get pics of the shims. But the kit comes with several shims. Four of which must be used the keep the upper portion of the subframe at OEM height.



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Dragons Tail @ ZDayz 2013

[CENTERhttp://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...psa2926181.jpg

Bad ***!

Dude the Z has come such a LONG WAY, great job man!!!!

Thanks bro. We need to get up. Do a kart day at AMP? Maybe with Z Atlanta?

Nice, car was lookin good.. :driving: