If and when I can get it out of the garage. Got snow blower sitting behind it, and getting ready to remove the front bumper shortly to fix my damage. :mad:

:tup: :bowrofl::bowrofl::bowrofl:

Stayin' tuned for more!!:tiphat:

thats a nice grille man :tup:

Hi Rusty!

I just purchase a 2013 Nismo Z and I lOVE the work you have done to your ride!

Can you help me, I am trying to find out where to purchase the Nismo RC brake ducts.

Where did you get yours from?

Thanks!

Ben

You have PM. :tiphat:

And for anybody else asking about the brake ducts. :D

I got the brake ducts from Nissan MotorSports. Phone 888-833-3225. They list for $612.00 each. So you need 2. A left and a right. Part numbers 41152-RTZ40 for the right. 41153-RTZ40 for the left. I used the Stillen brake duct kit too. That's an extra $200+. As you see. This is not cheap by any means. If you have more questions. Feel free to ask.
Rusty

Hey Rusty! Did you ever solve the steering wheel alignment problem?

You mean after the header install? Yeah, took it back to the dealer to reset the steering wheel sensor on the rack.

Have these on order. Should be here next week. Tuesday or Wednesday.

http://www.the370z.com/group-buys/65...o-testing.html

I was looking at these too lol

My RacingBrake rotors and my Yellow Stuff pads came in. Now got to find the time to install this along with my Z1 stainless brake lines and get my calipers powder coated by Mike.

You read the label. It states that they check the hardness of each rotor. You can see the dimple on the rotor from the test. :tup:

Selling my stock exhaust if anybody is interested.

http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...ml#post2140002

wow! That floor! Reminds me of Kelloggs Factory Floor Crunch!

Nice! I would like to do this but I'm paranoid about bleeding the brake system.

i want to too but im paranoid about $2K for rotors. bleeding my wallet is harder than bleeding brake lines :bowrofl:

Got a new DD. It's a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee TrailHawk with the Hemi. :D

:tup: very nice

Wow. Finally got a chance to read to the end of this thread...

What a car! The work you put into making your Z what it is ... It's inspiring. Thank you for taking the time to share it all! Your documentation of your build is sick.

So I am interested in doing a similar exhaust set up - intake set-up - and you've shown how important a tune is ... So hopefully that route as well.

Questions:
- First how well does your Z hold up on the track? Oil temps, brakes, ect.

- The steering complications you ran into post LTH install. What caused it? How could myself/others prevent or avoid it? Are there any F.I. LTH D.I.Y.s?

- The tune. From what I gathered, this is what really brought a lot of your parts together - making a big difference in the car. When I reach that point, what should I look for when trying to find a tuner (I live in South Florida)? What is a reasonable cost of a tune?

Again, that you for this awesome thread. Sweet Car.

- Charles

Rusty will I finally get to see your Z in person this season? Lol I posted the new schedule for the flashlight drags in the pa thread a week or so ago.

Also I'm bout to install my oil cooler this week/weekend :tup:

It depends on my work schedule. LOL

as usual lol

Thanks! :tiphat:
My driving skills are not up to the level the Z is at. So as my skills improve, and I run into things. That's when I make improvement to the Z or I feel the need to make changes before I run into problems.

I did the oil cooler first as anybody else has run into that problem. So the oil temp has never been a problem.

Skills increased. So next problem was fuel starvation. Fixed that with "phunks" kit. :tiphat:

I'm working on the brakes now. Ducts, 2 piece rotors, stainless lines, and pads.

The install for the LTH's. There is a sensor on the rack and pinion that had to be reset by the dealer. The hardest part of the install is getting the heat shield out of the driving side. PITA! That's what takes so long. The install is pretty straight forward if you know your way around a car somewhat. If you are doing the LTH's. Drop the stock manifold and cats together as one piece. this way you don't have to fool with the demon bolts.

For a tuner in Fla. Can't answer that. As for the tune itself, it brought the mods together. It feels more refined.

What can I say. :shakes head: I got over a 125 hours overtime last month alone. :eek: I was the only healthy one standing, as the flu bug hit everybody else. :eek:

now i see where the extra $2k for those rotors came from :bowrofl: :tup:

It's also paying for my cruise next month to the Caribbean. :tup:

very nice :tup:

i do got 3 quick mod questions for you though.

1. i got my 34 row oil cooler in last week and my oil change kit in as well. i was wondering 1. is that AAM spacer needed even with the extra quart that the cooler holds alone?

2. what filter did you go with? i know some people say they got with the longer filter with the oil cooler kit.

3. does yours over-cool at all? a lot of people tell me they make block off plates for theirs.

Definitely will need that if your're street driving.

thats what ive heard so far. figured i'd ask Rusty since we live in the same area and conditions weather wise.

1. The spacer is not needed. I put one on as I like to do road courses. For me, it's extra protection going through the turns.

2. I'm using the standard Pure One filter. When talking about filters, it's like talking about which oil is best. I'm using the standard length filter because of the cooler plate adapter. Space is tight down there. If you think you want to use the long one, go ahead.

3. As for overcooling. I have been know to put some duct tape over a couple of rows now and then.

thanks for the info. a couple people ive talked to use the slightly longer filter but not sure why lol

i like the duct tape idea rather than cutting out a aluminum cover plate. it would be nicer but probably harder to get on and off unless i lay under there and devise some quick release set-up.

The duct tape trick I picked up from roadracing motorcycles. :tup:

good tip to know lol

i just stocked up on blue 3m painters tape for my front end. gotta keep it protected on the long drive to zdayz.

If I can chime in on the Oil Cooler discussion. As far as "over-cooling" is concerned - Z1 Motorsports in there Oil Cooler kit warn against it and highly recommend something called a "Thermostatic Sandwich Plate".

I'm guessing this only lets oil go to the cooler once a certain temp is achieved.... Not sure.

If that is true - that would eliminate the need to "duck tape"?

Trying to figure this out for myself too.


Here is a link to the Z1 Cooler: http://www.z1motorsports.com/g37_370...oducts_id=4135
- At the bottom of there description they talk about the thermostatic plate.

Also, a littel of topic from the Oil Cooler, but Rusty: How much Louder or Deeper did your exhaust get once you had add the headers to the F.I. catback?

Sorry if you did it all at once - for some reason I can't remeber if you did ... even though I read through it just yesturday... :tup:

I have the thermostatic plate. It never fully closes. It's design to let about 10% oil flow through. Once the oil starts to heat up. The plate will open to 100% at around 180F.

So if I'm driving in weather less then 50F. I will reach through the front bumper opening and place 2 or 3 strips of duct tape across the bottom rows of the cooler.

Don't know, as I did everything at one time. It's louder then stock for sure. GF said it sounds healthy. :D

LOL. Thanks.

I added to my first post of this build thread. I have listed all the things I have done to my Nismo in order with a wish list at the bottom. Some of the parts listed have a part number and/or price with them. Hopefully this will cut down on digging through the thread. :tiphat: