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You'll love it and won't want to go back. They call them black crack for a reason.

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Old 03-27-2014, 07:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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You'll love it and won't want to go back. They call them black crack for a reason.
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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funny story, I have mine stacked in the garage until after the last freeze, when they will go to my storage unit. I was looking at them, compared to a stack of my unmounted 295 hoosiers and they were much taller. I later realized I have them stacked 5 high!
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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funny story, I have mine stacked in the garage until after the last freeze, when they will go to my storage unit. I was looking at them, compared to a stack of my unmounted 295 hoosiers and they were much taller. I later realized I have them stacked 5 high!
Well, nobody ever said you had to be able to count to 5 to drive a race car
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I missed the Apr 5-6 MSR-H event already, had some personal things to deal with that weekend, and I won't make the NASA Hallet event either. I'm already on a roll with screwing up my aggressive schedule I think I might try to do the Edge Addicts COTA thing at the end of June, though. Karen rocks, I'm sure her event will kick all other COTA events' asses.

In other news, work sent me to Athens last week. If you ever get the chance, go. I've been many places, and it was by far one of the best cities I've visited. Well worth the trip, and pretty cheap there due to the current economic situation. I'm almost tempted enough to just sell all my stuff and move there, even housing is pretty cheap there right now
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Revised upcoming schedule (subject to work/life cancellation/interference!):

Apr 26-27: Nismo Fiesta @ H2R
May 17-18: TWS - The Driver's Edge
June 21-22: MSR-Houston - The Driver's Edge
June 28-29: COTA - Edge Addicts
Aug 9-10: TWS - The Driver's Edge
Sep 6-7: TWS - The Driver's Edge
Sep 20-21: NOLA - NASA
Oct 4-5: MSR-Houston - The Driver's Edge
Oct 11-12: TWS - NASA
Nov 1-2: Eagle's Canyon - NASA
Nov 22-23: TWS - The Driver's Edge
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Back from NismoFiesta w/ the Houston Z's crowd, which was awesome. Got to chat with a bunch of vendors/sponsors (Nismo, Z1, etc, even a Motul rep!). The trackday was only 4x 15m sessions, but still tons of fun. I really like Harris Hill even though it's a bit bumpy. You get used to kinda skipping along the bumpy parts

Video links are over in a post in the NismoFiesta thread: NISMO Fiesta 2014 4/26-4/27
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Got the EC-WETs mounted this morning. 18x10 is not ideal for these 265/645R18's. I think they should really be on 9.5's, maybe even 9's. They're not like, ricer-stretched or anything, and they're mounted well enough to not be a safety hazard on the track, but the rim edge is wider than the tire sidewall, so you get zero rim protection while manhandling the wheels around the trailer/paddock/car. They'll probably look a little better with proper pressure and the car's weight on them, but still

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Old 05-18-2014, 05:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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TWS Recap!

I did a Red-group check-ride Saturday and got myself into Red w/ Driver's Edge. It wasn't as scary as I thought it would be. I thought they'd be running me down all session and I'd have my arm hanging out the window the whole time, but I'm actually on pace with them pretty well (although certainly not in the faster half of the group). The simple corner passes I'm pretty used to now, but I can tell it will take a while to learn how the rules of "etiquette" work in a pass-everywhere group.

For example, in the "pass on straights only" groups, usually if I see a car closing on me fast in the corners but he's still not quite on my bumper, and I know he's not as fast in the straights, I'll lift for him on the straight so he doesn't get stuck behind me for a 1/3 of track in the next twisty section. It seems like the opposite social rules apply here: if they're not on your bumper coming into the straight (*and* faster than you on the straight), go ahead and stay in the throttle and pull away, because when/if they do catch you in the next twisties, you can always let them pass there as well. No point in losing laptime over trying to be pointlessly-polite.

Also, I broke my car this morning. As I laid into the throttle for a pass, the car went into some kind of limp mode and I had no real revs or power left. I coasted down through the next corner and then eventually pulled off the side of the track. Tried to restart the engine, but it was running rough and limiting at like 2K with a SES light on, so I gave up and let them tow me in :/

SES was for a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor. Restarting it in paddock, the engine seemed to run ok at idle and very low RPM, so I doubt there's any internal damage (well, it was a little rough, but I think that's probably the limp mode's un-tuned timing and/or lack of good sensor input, etc). There was a funny rattle off and on though, and it sounded like it was coming from the bellhousing area. Jacked the car up and pulled the crankshaft sensor, and it has some physical scratches and wearmarks on the tip of it like the flywheel nicked it. With the sensor back in I was able to drive it back up into the trailer at least, with that bad rattle sound.

At this point my best guess is a cracked flywheel/flexplate, or maybe a flywheel<->torque converter bolt backed out, or both. Parts cost on the sensor and flywheel is pretty cheap, but it will be a bitch to drop the trans to install the flywheel. Next events are June 21-22 and 28-29, so I need to figure this out relatively quickly. Tomorrow I'll pull the access covers/plates and/or the starter motor so I can actually look at the edge of the flywheel or tap it with a hammer and see how it sounds or something. I may just call a Nissan place too and see what they'd do. The shorty lift in my garage doesn't have open access under the trans, so I know I can't (easily) drop it here.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wstar View Post
TWS Recap!

I did a Red-group check-ride Saturday and got myself into Red w/ Driver's Edge. It wasn't as scary as I thought it would be. I thought they'd be running me down all session and I'd have my arm hanging out the window the whole time, but I'm actually on pace with them pretty well (although certainly not in the faster half of the group). The simple corner passes I'm pretty used to now, but I can tell it will take a while to learn how the rules of "etiquette" work in a pass-everywhere group.

For example, in the "pass on straights only" groups, usually if I see a car closing on me fast in the corners but he's still not quite on my bumper, and I know he's not as fast in the straights, I'll lift for him on the straight so he doesn't get stuck behind me for a 1/3 of track in the next twisty section. It seems like the opposite social rules apply here: if they're not on your bumper coming into the straight (*and* faster than you on the straight), go ahead and stay in the throttle and pull away, because when/if they do catch you in the next twisties, you can always let them pass there as well. No point in losing laptime over trying to be pointlessly-polite.

Also, I broke my car this morning. As I laid into the throttle for a pass, the car went into some kind of limp mode and I had no real revs or power left. I coasted down through the next corner and then eventually pulled off the side of the track. Tried to restart the engine, but it was running rough and limiting at like 2K with a SES light on, so I gave up and let them tow me in :/

SES was for a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor. Restarting it in paddock, the engine seemed to run ok at idle and very low RPM, so I doubt there's any internal damage (well, it was a little rough, but I think that's probably the limp mode's un-tuned timing and/or lack of good sensor input, etc). There was a funny rattle off and on though, and it sounded like it was coming from the bellhousing area. Jacked the car up and pulled the crankshaft sensor, and it has some physical scratches and wearmarks on the tip of it like the flywheel nicked it. With the sensor back in I was able to drive it back up into the trailer at least, with that bad rattle sound.

At this point my best guess is a cracked flywheel/flexplate, or maybe a flywheel<->torque converter bolt backed out, or both. Parts cost on the sensor and flywheel is pretty cheap, but it will be a bitch to drop the trans to install the flywheel. Next events are June 21-22 and 28-29, so I need to figure this out relatively quickly. Tomorrow I'll pull the access covers/plates and/or the starter motor so I can actually look at the edge of the flywheel or tap it with a hammer and see how it sounds or something. I may just call a Nissan place too and see what they'd do. The shorty lift in my garage doesn't have open access under the trans, so I know I can't (easily) drop it here.
I hit the track on Sunday and the car was running fine as long as the RPM's were above ~1K. So during my session i was fine as long as I didn't come to a stop, so sure enough when i finally got off the track and stopped, the car died.

If I was below 1K and in drive or reverse, the car would bog down and stall. I thought I was gonna have to have the car towed home, but I managed to get the car rolling by revving to 4k and 5k in neutral and then dropping it into gear. The momentum got the car moving, RPM's stayed high enough to prevent the car from stalling. Shifting, especially downshifting manually seemed to aggravate the transmission and would cause the "stalling" symptom to return. I was able to reproduce the problem on demand, all i had to do was drive it like a manual

Anyway, dealer has my car...says they're gonna replace the transmission under warranty. They haven't said what the problem is and I doubt they are going to diagnose it to figure it out. I want to prevent this in the future but I don't know if this is my flex plate or something else. So I'm hoping your experience might help point me in the right direction so i can spend my money wisely on this.

This is actually my second transmission, the 1st one got replaced Sept 2013. The way this is going, I'm sure it will happen again.

I pinged Megan370z and he seems to be in the same boat with the 7AT, except i think he's gonna throw in the towel on fixing it and just swap it out for a 6MT.

I called GTM about the flex plate seems it's just checmically treated to better withstand the heat, I ahve no idea if it will fix my problem or if I need their torque converter or maybe something else.
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
I hit the track on Sunday and the car was running fine as long as the RPM's were above ~1K. So during my session i was fine as long as I didn't come to a stop, so sure enough when i finally got off the track and stopped, the car died.

If I was below 1K and in drive or reverse, the car would bog down and stall. I thought I was gonna have to have the car towed home, but I managed to get the car rolling by revving to 4k and 5k in neutral and then dropping it into gear. The momentum got the car moving, RPM's stayed high enough to prevent the car from stalling. Shifting, especially downshifting manually seemed to aggravate the transmission and would cause the "stalling" symptom to return. I was able to reproduce the problem on demand, all i had to do was drive it like a manual

Anyway, dealer has my car...says they're gonna replace the transmission under warranty. They haven't said what the problem is and I doubt they are going to diagnose it to figure it out. I want to prevent this in the future but I don't know if this is my flex plate or something else. So I'm hoping your experience might help point me in the right direction so i can spend my money wisely on this.

This is actually my second transmission, the 1st one got replaced Sept 2013. The way this is going, I'm sure it will happen again.

I pinged Megan370z and he seems to be in the same boat with the 7AT, except i think he's gonna throw in the towel on fixing it and just swap it out for a 6MT.

I called GTM about the flex plate seems it's just checmically treated to better withstand the heat, I ahve no idea if it will fix my problem or if I need their torque converter or maybe something else.
Heh, i had the same problem before, it's the torque converter welded itself. Try applying throttle while braking like doing a launch, you'll hear something crack. That will fix it temporarily, you still need to change your TQ converter because it will come back. You must had a good run then come to a stop suddenly.
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Made a video from datalogger recordings on the flywheel thing. Youtube desc copied for embed:

Quote:
Audio comparison of "normal" and "something's wrong" engine sounds from Saturday. That "something's wrong" sound slowly builds up in the data all through the second half of Saturday. I couldn't hear the difference from the cockpit with a helmet on so I had no idea about this Saturday, but the datalogger mic is up under the dash close to the firewall and you can really hear it in the video.

The 3rd clip is when things actually went crazy Sunday morning and the car died for the day. The ECU went into some kind of limp mode and started aggressively limiting revs and speeds to try to prevent damage, and may have retarded timing and whatnot as well. The RPM gauge is really nuts when it happens. I ended up killing the engine off on the side of the track and getting a tow, as I couldn't maintain more than ~10 mph and the engine was threatening to die on me constantly, and I wasn't sure if more damage was being done.

ECU had code P0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor). That sensor reads the flywheel. During a couple short restarts in the paddock, there were some clanky sounds that could be coming from the bellhousing area, but otherwise the engine seemed to run ok at idle and low revs. Pulled the (magnetic) sensor and it had scratches and grooves on the tip of it like the flywheel (or something else) had hit it, or at least rubbed into it pretty good.

Most likely I've got a cracked/damaged flywheel and/or a loose bolt in that area, plus a damaged crankshaft sensor. The parts are pretty cheap (~$300 combined), but it means dropping the trans to diagnose and fix.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_2Z0v27ymc
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Dropped the car off at Baker North today to let them sort it out
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Honestly, I have no idea what's wrong with your transmission, sorry! This is the only AT I've ever owned, and I know next to nothing about the internal mechanisms of one (at least, not enough to diagnose based on symptoms like that).

My trans has been fine so far, and it's been through a lot of abuse. I basically never used the normal "D" mode even when it was a street car, and at the track it's M-mode and high revs all day long. I don't *think* my trans is currently broken, just the flexplate. Worst case, could be related issues at the pilot bushing and/or torque convertor (e.g. loose bolt), but who knows at this point. I'll know more once the guys at Baker starting looking at the car.

The only non-standard things I've done with my 7AT really is up the line pressures slightly via UpRev, and switched fluid to Motul Multi-ATF. I've done a mostly-complete fluid swap on this trans twice now with the Motul. Hot track days can really destroy fluid pretty quickly, and bad fluid could lead to all kinds of problems. There's a PDF chart from GTM somewhere about trans fluid temp vs miles-to-change...

I'll probably put a stock flexplate back in mine for now, assuming that's the main thing that's broken. As long as the first one lasted, I'm sure something bigger will break before another one does.
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Would you say the symptoms I'm experiencing are similar or are they just totally different?

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Old 05-23-2014, 12:11 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Sorry don't mean to thread jack your journal. I called the dealer and they confirmed it was the torque convertor, they said it was actually coming apart

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