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That really sucks about the harness. It sucks about the lost weekend too - I assume you lost your track fee on top of it all... Nice to year you're
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#1 (permalink) |
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That really sucks about the harness. It sucks about the lost weekend too - I assume you lost your track fee on top of it all...
![]() Nice to year you're under 3K on weight with the AC out. Is there anything else on the list for reduction? This means we also all have to wait for weeks to see track videos. Bummer. At least the car should be in ship shape when you get it out there...
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Stillen CBE, Stillen track cooler, Stillen Gen3 Intakes, B&M short shift kit |
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#2 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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![]() I did have a chance to drive the car to/from the track and I could definitely feel the increased chassis stiffness even only pushing it at 2/10ths. Can't wait to open it up! Also, would like to share with you all that RobiSpec will be supplying my front splitter assembly and canards. Instead of the carbon sheet he offers, I'll be using the 'boat board' that we already purchased for the splitter, but I'm a big fan of his sub-assembly and front air damn... a great turn-key solution for all of us to consider... more to come To answer your question on weight beyond the a/c... YES... my pounds / HP ratio limit is 8.7. That means that if I optimistically end up with 330 hp at the wheels, I can be as low as 3,000 lbs competition weight. Which would include 300 lbs of driver and fuel. I'm 180lbs off that mark now, and assuming a/c weighs 40lbs and all the aero I'm adding weighs about the same, then 180lbs is my remaining target. There are folks on this board with a lot more experience on how to get at the last bits of weight, but I'm confident that over time I will get at most of that. Heck, if I could get it below that # would allow me to strategically add back for more ideal weight distribution. Some of the weight savings opportunities I'm considering: - swap HFCs for straight pipes and and CBE for something lighter... maybe 20 lbs - de-pin wiring... maybe 10-20 lbs... yes, will be more careful next time or have someone do it for me ![]() - swap rear window for lexan... not yet done... 10-15 lbs - car was weighed using stock wheels/tires... should be 5-10 lbs less with competition setup - enhance fuel system so I can run with only what I need for a session... could be good for 80+ lbs ! - cut off more unneeded sheet metal, unused mounting points, hangars, etc - eliminate unused bolts and fasteners... 5-10 lbs ? - look for more weight in engine compartment... haven't done much at all there... maybe cut some of the material in the hood and swap latches for dzus fasteners... no idea yet |
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#3 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
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Nice list. I think the engine compartment is key - the weight distribution on this car is so screwed up, anything you can take out up there helps. I'm not sure what the stock alternator weighs, but there are some pounds to be saved for sure. Not the cheapest reduction, but it could be worth it at some point...
Also, have you gotten rid of anything in the front bumper (I'm too lazy to go back and check)? Weight out there is the worst for both polar moment and overall distribution - it's the first thing I would try to reduce, as long as you keep all appropriate crumple zone hardware intact. Bumper shocks can be replaced with tubes. Rear bumper crap is are even easier to ditch - you're pretty unlikely to hit back first. Other thoughts (not sure how many of these you've done): Headlights? (probably not if you're still driving to the track) Aluminum oil pan? (assume the stock one is steel) - not cheap Aluminum master cylinder Lightening holes in non-essential supports Fender liners Washer fluid, fluid bins, nozzles, misc. plastic crap, etc... Custom aluminum brackets can be pretty easy to make to replace heavy steel brackets, as long as they are not in a location with excessive vibration...
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Stillen CBE, Stillen track cooler, Stillen Gen3 Intakes, B&M short shift kit Last edited by imag; 12-01-2009 at 09:38 AM. |
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