LOL. Good thing we don't run at the same tracks eh? Just kidding, your car is plenty faster than mine. Good luck with the SC! I could have used one to keep up with my buddy's C6, he had 1 second a lap on me and it was all on the straight.

See below - I had the same issue so I got my base class re-assigned with different options... so below is the secret decoder ring to getting a 370z setup for TTA. Four options. Anyone that wants to use these should get it approved on their own - ie don't assume that my approval applies to everyone. If you don't run NASA TT, this doesn't apply to you... Also, keep in mind that you cannot start from these levels and move down (through smaller tires etc from TTA to TTB) - can only stay the same or move up.

OPTION 1
OPTION 2
OPTION 3
OPTION 4

I would like to stay with option 1 since my car is stock, but I really cant compete with no slicks, so I guess I am with the crazies in TTA

Depends on where your WHP and weight are coming in... if you're "competition weight" is above 3300lbs, which is typical for these cars unless heavily stripped, you could tune the car to up to 320 whp and use option 4

... option 4 will allow you to stay TTA, add aero and other mods, and run 275 NT01s (or similar) all the way around... the 20mm smaller tires would give you back a few points and you could spend those along with the remaining 19pts in the class and still stay within TTA

or if you are lighter and running <300 whp, then go with option 1

I don't think options 2 and 3 are going to be relevant to most folks given the challenge of getting down to those kinds of weights...

I have been using option 1... and I was thinking about using option 3 as an alternative setup where I would run lighter and with no aero... no longer relevant given the SC on the way!

Does "competition weight" imply driver and fuel?

yes, it is what you and car weigh when your car comes in off the track after a run and you are immediately put on a scale... you have to take into account fluids burning off, and claim that minus some contingency (10-20 pounds) as your min weight

Sebring is pretty amazing Travis, definitely try to make it out there. I wish it werent a 4 hour drive for me :(

that is going to be pretty nice setup! I know Jay's twin turbo track monster is.

Travis going FI is an unexpected surprise, this will be awesome to watch. I really want to see the results, especially as you're going Stage 2 and keeping the power within reason instead of shooting for the best peak dyno chart :)

(I assume, mainly for classification reasons for now).

I was mistaken... PBIR is next... so you're back in, right! :)

Hope so... and hope I can keep the deal with the power!

It'll be interesting to see if I can tune for the absolute flatest curve... other than the pulley, do you guys have any ideas on tuning / mods I can make to trade peak power for overall power under curve?

I also need to get back on with aero enhancements... flattening out the bottom and what-not.

I might have some shots of your car on track. I'll check my laptop tonight.

Thanks, Anthony... Feel free to post em here. BTW, my last AZ event was months ago, so don't bother looking through recent event photos.

I think there was a question in here about motor mounts... you know who you are ;)

Here is the link

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ml#post1216932

amazing ...we can source you some products that can help your build purpose.. we can do custom body work. ;)

keep up the good work.

Thanks for dropping by... would like to talk with you about that... front fenders in particular seem like a good place to drop weight... but I'm looking for a good rate as far as $ price / pound saved... ie I'd pay $5-10 per pound all day long, but most of the carbon parts I see are $100 per pound or just for looks. Fiberglass is what I need. If you have some ideas, please send along a PM. Cheers.

so for my next NASA event, the car will still be NA... and I'll be running TTA... Yoko 265's on order - figured I'd try those out and have on hand as an extra set for casual track days in the future... that + NT01s seem to be out of stock everywhere... I have an extra "2 points" to spend - any recommendations on how I use those?

265 Yoko A048s
-7 for size
7 for compound

0 TIRES
+1 Modified LSD (D5)
+5 dampers/springs (E3, E5)
+2 sway bars (E7)
+2 brake calipers (F1)
+1 3rd attachment to rear strut (F3)
+4 rear wing (G4)
+2 rear diffuser (G4)
2 FREE POINTs???

Things left to do to get the car ready:

- get down to 3100 comp weight... still 80lbs off
- swap for new oil pan, change oil motul 300v
- bleed brakes motul 600
- torque everything, safety check
- find a way to spend 2 more points!

maybe cf parts?

Yup.. I don't take 'points' for those! I can add those all day long... only thing is, they need to have a legit weight savings - otherwise I'm not interested

how else do you plan on saving weight? Have you taken out the dash? the Cf hatch is light then Oem

always the salesman:roflpuke2:

Looks like SC kit will ship next week

Nice!

I drove mine around yesturday...You will not be disappointed.

Cool... how was throttle response? please post driving impressions

[QUOTE=travisjb;1245270]I was mistaken... PBIR is next... so you're back in, right! :)



I have ran both PBIR and Homestead, both are pretty good tracks but Homestead is a couple notches up lol forsure. JB awesome journal BTW :tup:

Hey Travis! How are you? Car and vids are rocking! who did your splitter? HOw much did it cost if you don't mind me asking

no, I hadn't seen those covers! Sweet


btw, Flat Out Motorsports, who I am running with this weekend is going to do PBIR in late january. Great bunch of guys. At this point, I plan on going.

:tup:

Car is now with jnaut! Gtm sc2 will arrive at his shop end of this week.

Had the car at pbir palm beach intl raceway today. Clockwise hell... massive fuel starvation in my first session and I could even get the car started for 4 hours after that. Hopefully nothing big... Big dissapointment and didn't even have time to learn the track and post a good time. Had one clean lap and turned 1;32.49. Left 4+ seconds on the track.

Stoked to see how it turns out man.

Fuel starvation sucks. The fuel pump is totally on the wrong side given that 90% of the tracks in the world are clockwise, oh well.

I'm guessing they are counterclockwise in Japan!

Travis, I thought you had the fix for your tank?

Most are clockwise actually. Suzuka is an odd-ball because it has a crossover, so it is both clockwise and counter-clockwise.

I broke my sender completely at auto-x today. Threw a code and car reads zero gas with a full tank. Also think I might have an exhaust leak, I have range warning codes for both front O2 sensors.

that stinks. hopefully warranty will cover it.

Thanks! Jnaut is going to try and tackle some more weight reduction while he's at it as well... hopefully it is enough to at least 50% offset the weight of the SC kit

Now that I am leaving the NASA points scheme, the world of mods is unlimited to me... going to have to revisit aero options, chassis stiffening, suspension, etc... will be running a 275 Hoosier R6 square setup from here forward

I'm guessing that they did this on purpose, unfortunately... I try not to be cynical, but fuel starvation is yet another way of ensuring these cars don't sustain too much track abuse while under warranty

I filled up the tank after the fuel starvation happened... it was 9 gallons down from full... that's not bad! but the result afterwards was unexpected... I've always been able to restart the car after fuel starvation, but something happened yesterday that I wasn't able to diagnose at the track, and it simply won't re-start... while trying to restart it, there was clearly fuel being delivered because we could smell it coming out of the exhaust, but it wasn't firing

Jnaut's first order of business is to diagnose the current situation... I'm sure he'll report back here once that's done

Chris that sucks! When you say it broke, what happened specifically?

Must be nice to have a warranty! haha

I noticed a SES light and the fuel gauge reading zero. I plugged in my code reader and it said something about voltage at sender, I can't remember exactly, I'll have to read the code again.

The car in its current condition wouldn't pass a warranty inspection so I'll just leave it for now. I run with a full tank all the time on track so it doesn't really matter that much.

Apparently my fuel sending unit broke in half and the wires got yanked out of the unit making the pump inoperable... that explains why my car wouldn't fire up!!! credit to jnaut for finding this quickly

... another weak link on this car for us all to deal with


part # 25060-Z34003
pictured here...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/370z-pa...8738_8742.html

chris, you may want to pop open your fuel pump panel and see if the wires are tightly connected and that the send unit assembly is properly seated etc

Good luck on the build.

Wow. Thanks Travis, I'll check on that.

thanks... hey, how's yours coming along?

sure thing