OK. Thanks

glad to hear your engine isn't trashed!

Things are moving along at CIN Motorsports... thought I'd share some pics from the recent trip to VIR

Starts well
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu289/travisjb/1.jpg
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu289/travisjb/2.jpg

Last time anyone will see this particular rear diffuser
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu289/travisjb/3.jpg
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu289/travisjb/4.jpg

Back on track after some quick repairs
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu289/travisjb/5.jpg

And then may day was over... thankfully, the engine is fine and it looks like the car simply overheated and an oil hose disconnected as the car was shutting down. No permanent damage - it's all coming back together as I type

thanks to Photography by F and S Enterprises for these preview pics

Hopefully will hit either ChumpCar or TrackDaze in August at VIR... maybe Chin at RA

Another set of Forgestar wheels on the way... will have 10x10" and 3x11" (one spare) with mix of R6s and NT01s

Going to sell the HRE wheels I bought a while back... didn't clear my rear AP Racing BBK - let me know if interested

Hey Travis, can you post a close up of your Gurney flap on your AeroMotions wing. It's something i want to do to my AM wing. I PM'd you a while back, with no response. It' something I want to do before i run at NOLA Motorsports Park Sept. 24th. Thanks in advance bro. BTW, nasty Z.

Also how you attached it to the wing surface would be greatly appreciated bro. Thanks.

hey travis,

can i get an image of your engine where you deleted the AC? i can't imagine how the belt goes without the AC. or does someone have an drawing for me?

thank you
thomas

Awesome!

How many miles and track days have you had with your under drive pulley?

I think he took his off when he started the supercharger project a year ago or so? And then blew an engine, and then started over with another used block. Or something like that :)

sorry to hear what happened to your car, hopefully you'll get it up and running soon enough.

thanks, it's running fine now... the ud pulley was not the issue but don't need one with sc setup at all and trying to avoid those given pot'l havoc some suggest

car has been on the track a few times last six months and continuing to refine the sc setup for reliability... not much to report right now, but at some point this spring i will do a refresh pic/video doc of the car... goal for '13 is more seat time... '12 was only 4-5 weekends due to mech issues and a move/job change

My '12 was kinda like that too. Here's to more seat time in 2013 :)

Whatever happened with the engine at Z Fever?

Hey man. The engine problems had nothing to do with z fever, it was an independent mechanic that i used on the other side of FL... Z Fever guys got me going again. Only possibly thing they goofed on was using a baseline tune that did not include SRM, so now that doesn't work - that's my theory anyways.

Not the first car Jnaut had a hand in messing up.

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Hey travis, what offset did you use for your square 18x10 setup (they were forgestars, right)? Any rub issues up front, etc?

I'll answer for him, +34, because I copied him. No rubbing issues.

Here's a question for y'all. I'm going to be running 18x9's square. Obviously I don't want the rear's to look retarded - I'm fairly sure I read about spacers being used by a decent amount of people on here for the rears. Any input on that? I wouldnt be going huge...

I use 15s in the rear, I think. Might be 20s

Mike is right on the offset, and I've been using +10 if i recall but could easily go with 15/20 and not exceed fender by much if at all... you should be able to use that to calculate what spacer to use with 34 offset and 9" wheel using one of the online offset calculators or by talking it through with your wheel mfgr

Ok, so 18x10 +34 all around (can move them at will), and you're putting +10/15-ish spacers on the back just to get closer to the fender? Just making sure I got this straight before I go digging around to see who has Forgestar F14's in stock in that size :)

that is correct. they fit in the rear without spacers, but are very tucked.

Which brand/kind of spacers are you two rocking?

H&R for my rears. When I use my other wheels that are 9.5 +46 with the 295 hoosiers, I run a 5mm Z1 spacer up front to clear the control arm. Silly that I use the wider tires on the more narrow rims, but thats just how it worked out.

Hi Travis

I'm still curious about the laminova setup. You said in one post that you have the E54 version. Which length though? Is it the single or dual core version?
Can you post a pic of it installed?

From what I read it sounds like it cooled the oil well, but ended up overloading your radiator ending in blown headgasket last time out?

Are you going to try to continue running the laminova?

I used the larger of the dual core designes, believe it is ~15"
Http://208.109.215.220/files/laminova.pdf
Part number: edc54-329

You are correct about the radiator being overloaded...

CIN Motorsports put a full shroud around the radiator replaced the stock fans and it's working great now... haven't had the opp'n to test in high heat yet though

The laminova setup seems like the most robust option we have but is a little pricey... I may have even gone one size too large... suggest you talk to the distributor to figure out the size you need

Pics later sorry

Was the shroud a custom deal or does someone sell something for that?

Pics of radiator setup? In just looking at stock fan setup it looks like typical setup to keep car cool in traffic but hamper higher speed cooling. Boxsters have same issue.

Well CSF's radiators are commonly available as upgrades. There was also this on the boards, some guy modding the stock core support to put in a super-thick racing radiator from GTM, and re-using the stock fans with a slimmer metal shroud that might work better:

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-part-1-a.html
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...t-2-final.html

In 2-3 months I'm planning to go after this area of the car as one long project. Remove my stock radiator, delete the AC/heat stuff, maybe upgrade motor mounts and check up on my header bolts while it's all easy-access. Then put back in at least a bigger radiator, but possibly w/ a Laminova unit replacing my separate air coolers as well. I just wish I had a firm grasp on how much radiator + Laminova I need.

I'm planning to use it to cool tranny fluid from the 7AT as well using one of their dual-core models with separate inputs.

Quoting myself, but just to clarify I'm wondering what you mean by shrouding, do you just mean a fan shroud on the rear of the radiator?
I saw that GTM makes a upgraded dual 14" fan kit for stock radiator.
GTM Motorsports*::*COOLING SYSTEM*::*GTM H.O. 14" Dual Fan Kit For Z34/V36 For Stock Radiator

Or did you also make some kind of shrouding in front block air from going around the sides,top,bottom, and force it through the core?

Here's a video... if you check this tonight, prob need to wait until it finishes processing on youtube's servers...



Should give you a better idea of what a fully enclosed radiator/IC looks like. Full shrouding in front and back of those units. The laminova unit, you can see it behind the radiator sitting atop of my splitter... the laminova unit is mounted along a large aluminum piece which itself acts as an additional heat sink / dissapation point, which was a pretty trick move by the guys at CIN motorsports in Charlotte... they put a lot of time into this shroud and setup and gave me a great deal!

I didn't research the GTM kit, but I'm guessing the package they have will ultimately cost you less if you DIY the install vs going full custom like I did

Not enough data to report on what size laminova unit at this point, I went big / dual core... I do recommend stuffing in a thick radiator replacement if you're going to delete a/c and redo the cooling and the shrouding is a BIG DEAL... also there's a setting in the nissan computer for when the fan's kick in... have your tuner play with that so both kick in at 190-200... if you get energy efficient fans, should be able to run stock harness no problem

I called BAT inc yesterday and spoke to one of the guys who seems to think a 43x330mm core would suffice, at least for my application (naturally aspirated). He actually originally recommended the 180mm length one, which he says would be similar to a 19row cooler. But I told him a lot of people are running 25 or 34 rows, so I will probably get 330mm for piece of mind. Still really expensive for even these smaller cores. I think the price went up about $100 since when I first looked at these over a year ago. :mad:

43x330 should be plenty! look forward to hearing about your progress/testing

must nice to be an exclusive distributor, huh? lol

Not sure how much those Laminova's are going for but you can pick up a C&R Cooler for under $500:

External Heat Exchanger « C&R Racing

http://crracing.tacticmarketing.com/...al_heat_ex.jpg


Or if you haven't swapped radiators yet, they do a radiator with the oil cooler built in like these:

Racing Heat Exchange Radiator « C&R Racing

http://crracing.tacticmarketing.com/...heat_rads1.jpg

^thx for posting... the combined unit looks like a good idea for our car, cleans things up and saves space for whatever else...

laminova claim to fame is no pressure loss across the unit, which is nice to have on our cars given the relatively high oil flow rate... wonder how the C&R units are on that dimension?

Heat rejection and pressure drop figures are in the bottom left corner of the dimensions pdf here:

http://www.crracing.com/wp-content/u...er_diagram.pdf

In general L/L heat exchangers are more efficient and have lower pressure drop than a comparably sized A/L core. They claim that the L/L cores they build into the radiators have even lower pressure drops than the remote mount units.

Helpful data thanks... maybe someone more technical than myself can come in here and explain the benefits of ~0 psi pressure drop vs ~2 psi pressure drop... does it really matter?

Also curious which setup among the three saves the most weight... seems like combined radiator/cooler design should be the most weight efficient

That was the right belt... but replacing it this weekend, I'm simply amazed that the last guy was able to get this belt on... with the tensioner all the way, I'm still an inch or two short of getting the belt over the pulleys. I'm going to try switching to this one size up... for random passerby's please keep in mind that this only applies if you have deleted your a/c and added a GTM supercharger kit

Gates® Micro-V AT® - OEM Quality Serpentine Belt
K070776 MICRO-V BELT
072053194876
Effective Length (in) 77.48
Effective Length (mm) 1968
Number of Ribs 7
Outside Circumference (in) 78.04
Outside Circumference (mm) 1982
Top Width (in) .947
Top Width (mm) 24

^ I was just a hair short due to the lip on one of the pullies. I had to remove the pulley and carefull retighten the pulley bolt without stripping due to the slight pressure on it. Worked fine.

Good for you, unfortunately mine's just too far... I think that's why my car has been squeaking - belt was tight beyond the limit of the tensioner... 2 inches more should do it

....nah, never mind...

Sent from my Galaxy S3