I can't remember but I think the stock shroud with the 2 fans might be in one piece. Could be a lot of work to hack it up, will have to take another look.

here's a few that might work...

Zirgo ZFU14S - Zirgo Ultra High Performance Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Be Cool 75014 - Be Cool Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com

this one has a shroud and built in thermoswitch
Flex-a-lite 185 Flex-a-lite Black Magic X-Treme Electric Puller Fans

same here... but this one has lower amp draw, thin profile, and weighs less... looks like a winner
Flex-a-lite 111 Flex-a-lite S-Blade Low Profile Universal Electric Fans

I would leave the factory fan assembly in the car, look at ryan's turbo car, his 2 aftermarket fans can't keep his cool at all.

okay... will assume you'll find away to work around them

Regarding the stillen bumper. Mine was blended by the body shop. 4 hours labor, but it stood up to hitting a deer on the side and massive deformation of the bumper from getting stuck on my trailer after the last alignment, which lowered it just enough to get caught up. The rest of it is actually deformed now, but the seams held up just fine.

I should have a new one delivered to me today to replace it. On this one, I'm not blending.

Also Travis,
In addition to scraping the bolt heads off of my undertray, I also wore the back underside lip off of the stillen bumper so that the front of the tray wasn't attached to anything after a while. Got black flagged at VIR because my aluminum undertray was scraping and sparking every time I hit a braking zone, so you may want to check the trailing edge of your bumper.

I think I'm going to wind up raising the car another 1/2 inch.

That was probably a side effect of blocking a lot of air to the radiator with the intercooler, I doubt the fans had much to do with it unless it was overheating at idle with zero boost. Since playing around with my oil cooler placement (now hard against the radiator) the water temps do get higher. The more air you can get to the radiator the better. Hood vents might also be necessary to reduce the high pressure zone and improve air flow.

My two cents...

Yes we used a hybrid setup. The air/water cooler was used in addition to the stock oil cooler but we also blocked the airflow to the stock cooler as we didn't think it would need it. An adequate water cooling system is absolutely necessary to make an air/water cooler work, there's just no way around it. NA with a big radiator and proper shrouding I think it would be no problem. Adding an SC to the mix...not sure...

The C91s will last you all of 3 laps before they start blistering, the A6s will last you 4-5 laps. The C51 compound Hankook is much much better for longer runs. The Berk 135i is pretty much exactly the target weight/power you're shooting for. The C51s are what we run in the MotoIQ Pacific Tuner Car Championships, 275s all around, and they are excellent. The longest we've ever run on one set was a few qualifying laps, a 30 minute race, another few qualifying laps, a 15 minute race, and about 3 hours of track time giving people ride-a-longs at MFest. They still had life left in them but they were replaced with a new set for the next race. The BFG R1s will last you a good bit too but they are MUCH slower than the Hoosier R6 or Hankook C51. If you had a big time attack race that you really wanted to do well in and you have two sets of wheels I would suggest one set with C51s for practice then a set of C91s for a flying lap.

Countersunk flat head screws. No matter how much they scrape you can always get a flat head screwdriver in there.

Good luck Travis! Thanks for being a pioneer for all of us!

Great input, Mike... I'm torn between the R6 and C51 at this point

I think I'm going to step out on a limb and try to the water-oil only approach... it may not work, in which case we can always add back one air-oil core... should be interesting

Jnaut is going to install (finally) my spa oil / water temp gauge, so we'll get some accurate data to work with going forward... I should probably figure out a way to data-log this in my traqmate as well, once it is all set up

I liked the C51, but they only lasted about 3 weekends, maybe 4. The BFG R1s lasted about double that.

The R1's do wear like iron but the grip is only roughly equivalent to a shaved RA1 or a NT-01. So it is a decent practice tire but not going to be the fastest.

yes, Chris it is a one piece assembly.

Originally Posted by jnaut

Bonnani, good info but remember you are cooling the oil with the output of the radiator. On average output temps are around 165-170 not 210 to 230 so this will help keep oil temps in check.

A little off topic but I had '08 x5 in the shop last week, for an overheat conditio, now that cooling system is horrible!! The electric wp went bad @ 52k miles.

Even more off topic...

just ordered a bunch of metric "nutserts" and slotted flat countersunk stainless steel machine screws... woohoo!

True, but also remember that the oil will be heating the water a bit too so it will be hotter than usual at the point it goes into the radiator in the first place. Long story short, you NEED a proper water cooling system for a Laminova cooler to be effective. Simple as that.

Do you have any reason to believe the stock radiator isnt enough? No matter what I do I cant get the temp past the halfway dot in my car, even with the sc.

I got mine all the way to the right in one track session on a hot day, it was my bad for not noticing right away. This was mostly due to blocking air to the radiator with my oil cooling setup. Since adjusting that I can only make it move 2 dots right of center, and half a lap of cool down brings it right back to left of center. By the time I get to the pits and plug in an ODBII reader it says 195F.

Is this on the track or the street? I began to see signs of coolant temp issues on my 370Z when I had the AE Performance oil cooler installed. Since it blocked a decent portion of the front bumper opening, after 20 or so minutes of track driving the water temp gauge was reading about 3/4 hot. I can't imagine the FMIC for the supercharger kit or the supercharger kit itself will make it any better. Not to mention the oil/water heat exchanger heating/cooling both the oil and water at the same time. On the street, not a problem, but Travis' car does not see the street. Now I could very well be wrong, and it would be nice if I am but if he wants to be running 20-30 minutes at a time without issues, I see a big radiator in his near future. The good news is that no matter what, there's going to be a fix and the fact that Travis' car is a track only machine opens up a world of fun possibilities for that fix.

I was just curious! I'm thinking I would have tried to leave the cooling as unobstructed as possible. We have seen what happens when you put a big fmic on this car. I know jayfightmoves had a TT setup and his car worked great on the track...

Travis's car has a very large aftermarket radiator and no condensor in it to obstruct the air flow, temps won't be an issue. Without this, Bonnani your are correct he would need upgrading.

Problem solved! :) Hopefully. If not, then I say custom front radiator support that allows for v-mount radiator/intercooler. :D

:tup::tup:

Just ordered a "skein" of wool yarn and four Magnehelic differential pressure gauges... going to do some aero testing when I get the car back... should help me figure out where to place vortex generators, where to position a vent in the hood, whether / how to extend my rear diffuser, underbody design, etc

... and yes, I have no idea what I am doing! lol

speak up if you've done this before. thanks!

I think you should build your own wind tunnel!

I do have three industrial fans that my wife uses in her photography business... might be a way to get some quick feedback w/o taking it on the road... I don't even want to think about the ticket I will get if I take this thing on the road

Guess it depends on the local LE's. Around here if you knew them and were on good terms with them and not driving like a jackass, no problemo. Worst case if they didn't know you they might give you a ticket for no inspection sticker. (Well, assuming the car still has a registered title and some legal plates stashed away somewhere).

I would move the f over if I saw you in the rear view, you could scare a cop away for sure.

haha, are you a cop?

hey all, NASA Nationals at Mid-Ohio this morning!!! You can watch it here live in ~2 hours (10:45am Eastern US)

SpeedcastTV

Tage, who posted on here recently, took #1 position yesterday in a Radical

Tage is driving a Radical? Sweet!

My friend Dominick is driving a blue 350Z in TTB. Said the competition is really fierce. He's a full second faster than when I was there in August (where he placed 3rd) and he's still 5th of 6.

Mid-Ohio is a real blast... I wish I could run it more often.

Polycarb windshield coming soon

SHIELDS SUPERCOAT and ANTI-FOG

we need a "Like" button for posts, like facebook!
:tup:

you going to rivet the screen in, or rubber seal same as OEM?

Also Travis - I noticed the stats compared to glass on the website as far as strike resistance and so on. What is the factor that keeps people from putting plastic windshields on their modified daily drivers? Is it the fogging, or the UV discoloration?

Equinox, the reason is safety/legality. These kinds of windshields are not DOT approved for use on public roads.

Ahh makes sense.

Also explains why, although some cars in the UK have plexi windows from factory, they are always side windows, and not the wind shield. I'm sure the issue is when you hit something - like say, a deer. Also explains why you would put a roll cage bar down the middle of the windshield when going plexi/lexan.

When a driver hits a glass windshield, the energy is absorbed and the windshield fractures and gives - reducing the severity of any head injury. When a driver hits these windshields they bounce in a big hit

Of course, in theory all drivers wear seatbelts and have airbags now, so nobody should be hitting their head on a windshield ...

Agree... this gets into a political discussion about govt overstepping / over-regulating

Okay, my new polycarb 1/4" windshield is on the way... if anyone wants one, I have distributor pricing now and can arrange your order.